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k&N air filter HAHA!
http://cgi.ebay.com/K-N-Air-Filter-T...QQcmdZViewItem
anyone seen that before? lol how does it perform? might get one my real truck has one too and it actually is a nice little upgrade! o and btw i have the os 18 motor if it matters. |
LOL, nice little filter. When I was using Nitro, I used this with good luck.
I don't know about those little K&N's, but the real 1:1 versions need special cleaning solution and/or oil. The motorsaver uses regular dishsoap to clean and regular filter oil... |
i probbaly woudlnt buy it i just thought it was cool! lol
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No!! Don't go with either...Like Brian said, the K&N's require special maintance, and aren't that great in performance. I would go with the stock snorkle for the Revo and a 1/8th scale buggy filter modified to fit it. That way you don't have the stock restriction of the mesh. A prefilter might also be smart. The Motor Savers are a no-no as well because I have heard numberous horror stories of them coming open, letting the element come out and then sucking dirt into the engine. If the filter comes off, you might as well kiss the piston and sleeve goodbye. I had that happen once with the stock filter because they don't come with a zip tie around them from the factory...
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that actually apperas to be a real car airfilter that some one decided to say was for the nitro rc cars. There is one air filter on a car the main one that is like 1 ft long but there is also one about this size conected to something else (what it was conected to sliped m minde but i have seen these small air filters on cars before they have a certain purpose i just cant remember). But yeah i would stick with the ones for the smaller blocks.
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http://bgosselin.home.mchsi.com/ms_filter.jpg I do agree though; ANY amount of dirt in the engine will SEVERELY shorten its life. The way the piston and sleeve are designed in those engines leaves no room for error on that part! |
The guy that created the Cvec exhaust is advertising a fram air cleaner. I didn't think too much about it because of the people using oil breathers on Ebay, but they used fram's name in advertising, so they may be collaborating on it. If i find the ad i'll get the link and post it
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by the way, the best way to clean air filters is to use mineral turpentine (a type of paint thinner that can be purchased at harware stores). HPI recommends using nitro fuel, but that is expensive compared to mineral turpentine.
And NO YOU WON'T DAMAGE THE FOAM. I , along with every one else in the dirt bike world have been using mineral turpentine with 100% success. turpentine is a solvent of air filter oil, so if some turpentine remains in the filter it will just mix with the oil (you don't want much residue though since it will thin the oil too much). using water and detergent is a bad idea, since water almost always remains in the foam....not good. plus it is an ineffective cleaner compared to turps. never use gasoline, since it will make the foam swell and break down over time. i heard on other forum that people are so paranoid about their "expensive" nitro engines that they put a brand new filter on every time. My dirt bike engine is worth thousands of dollars alone, but i clean my air cleaners since the foam can last around 30-50 or so washes before falling apart. |
dont use the K&N type of filter on a RC engine. They do not filter out enough to keep the motor clean. the foam filters trap much more dirt and even better with a pre filter. 1:1's can handle a little more dirt in the motor than the precision rc motors.
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also, if you run your truck in very fine and dusty clay soils, be warned that these super fine particles will pass straight through any air filter. in australia, some of the particles are down to 2 microns in size (in places) and most dirt bike filters only trap particles above 5 microns. RC filters are no different, it depends on the type of foam used.
though, the finer the foam the more intake restriction you will get. paper elements are ok if they are used with a oiled foam pre-filter. however i would recommend sticking with just oiled foam. |
hey squeeforever, i have never used nitro fuel to wash the filters since the methanol temporarily makes the foam swell right up. HPI recommends it, not me...i recommend mineral turpentine.
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my 2 cents
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i use k&n filters all the time. If you check out their website, they have a r/c specific filter, but they are all connstructed the same, most on e-bay are actually oil breathers. In fine dust use a pre-filter, other than that keep it clean and well oiled, i've had lots of luck with them and actually had my engine temps come down because of the easier breathing
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wow, a thread about air filters for a nitro truck.
I think I will get one and mount it b/t my fan and the mm so that dust does not build up on the cooling fins and ruin the transfer efficentcy! |
well this is the nitro section.......
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dont even use kn filter on a 1/1 car, sucks heaps of sand in.
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In my opinion, if you want airflow, increase surface area (of the filter).
You can only properly filter something so fast, so if you are getting a dramatic increase in airflow from the same amount of surface area, chances are you are letting more than extra air through. As mentioned before, even more important with force induction vehicles. The stock filter on my brother's Evo 8 is much much larger than the stock filter was on my G35 (given, I have an aftermarket cool air intake now, but thats a different topic). If you want more airflow for your engine, just use a 1/8 buggy filter. They are enough for .28 sized big blocks, they will be plenty for anything smaller. |
I just deleted all the posts which violated forum rules.
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Thank you sir! Now this thread can RIP once again...
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Very appreciated BRIAN G
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