problem with mm overheating... fan?
 

hey i want to get a fan for my esc but which one should i get? should i go ahead and buy the novak fan? will that fit the mm? where is a nice little fan that i can buy?

thanks

I have bought a bunch of fans from www.allelectronics.com and www.hosfeltelectronics.com

There are a ton of them... many @ $2-3 each. Look for the thin ones... watch the specs. You don't want the fat boys. I like the 40mm fans for the esc. If the motor is next to the esc you can run a bigger fan and get both some air.

There's a guy on ebay that sells cooling fans. I think his store name is robobugs. He claims that his fans are very tough. I got the 12v version and am planning to run it directly from my 4S lipo pack. Less work for the bec and when you run a 12v fan on 4S lipo, it's like a little hurricane under the body. I'm running a 12v 40mm fan on my motor and haven't had any problems.

Just keep in mind that a fan isn't a good fix for an overgearing problem. I like to stay conservative with my setups. Well, conservative in the sense that I like to set things up so that they work without always being pushed to the limit. I set my cars up so that they do not thermal under normal driving conditions, then add a fan to keep it in the comfort zone for when I push it harder than I usually do. If your MM is thermaling and you aren't doing any really hard driving, I'd look to the gearing or even the motor, esc, battery combo.

What are you running anyway?

it never thermals. i alwasy stop it to make sure. i get about 5-7 minutes untill the temps get to 150. i need to order some pinions im just being lazy. setup is rusty with mm5700 and 3s1p a123 system. 16/87 gearing

You need to run it for 10 minutes+ and see what the temps get to. That will give you a better idea of where the temps are going to peak.

Seriously... 150* is very good. I know it feels hot... but it's pretty normal for any type of system, bl or not.

o i didnt know that. what is the temp range for motors and escs?

Motors and esc's vary, but usually I would not go over 180 on a motor personally, an esc usually has a cut off and then thermal, this is usually in the 160's I believe, not sure on the esc though.

dont run the motor over 100 degree C

sorry, my post was in F

sorry, i know you guys are talking about farenheit.
but i do not know how many farenheit 100 C is.
sorry bout the confusion.

No biggy! Some go by C so it's good that you stated that.

Now both crowds are covered!

And for those who don't use C or F, if you have blisters on your fingers, it's too hot.
But basically. If it is 0* C, it's 30* F if that helps.

150f is nothing to worry about. We have run other ESCs around 185F and never had a thermal. Then again, mine also hit the melting point of aluminum and didnt thermal :002: :036:

There is a °C to °F converter on Brians Calculator.

Bomp, melting point of Al: 1220°F! Your solder would boil before aluminium melts! (not quite, but you get the point)

C to F conversion: F = C * 1.8 + 32
F to C conversion: C = (F - 32) / 1.8

0C is 32F...

I don't believe that actually. Here is the specs of the melting point of aluminum.
Name: Aluminum
Symbol: Al
Atomic Number: 13
Atomic Mass: 26.981539 amu
Melting Point: 660.37 °C (933.52 K, 1220.666 °F)
Boiling Point: 2467.0 °C (2740.15 K, 4472.6 °F)
Number of Protons/Electrons: 13
Number of Neutrons: 14
Classification: Other Metals
Crystal Structure: Cubic
Density @ 293 K: 2.702 g/cm3
Color: Silver
British Spelling: Aluminium
IUPAC Spelling: Aluminium

With that said, the solder on the wires, or solder anywhere in the esc would not last, nor would the circuitry, FET's, BEC, any of it.

I was close!

Doesn't the type of aluminum affect the melting point (2032, 6061, 7075, etc)?

newe: Yeah, you were "close", but I was just letting you know the formula for future reference. ;)

No prob....all well and good sir. I usually use the burnt finger technique! :005: :013:

And yes, the grade of aluminum does matter when it comes to the melting point. The better the grade, the longer it takes to melt due to the higher temp it needs to be at. this has to do with the alloys in it to make it stronger. But the point I was making still stands I would believe. The info I sent is general and is used as a guideline.

I don't mind the burnt finger technique... as long as it belongs to someone else! :)

I thought the type of Al would make a difference on melting point. Maybe BP used a really low grade aluminum?

Then the quality would have been a tad more then solder....:eek:

lol. True.

wow im lost.

Sorry about the hijack!

I think he meant that the esc had a nuclear meltdown... as in burned up. A shorted 1000w battery can do that :)

According to castle, 200* should be the upper limit on both the motors and esc's

Ive never gotten my esc over 130F! The melting point of the aluminum is no where NEAR our problems when it comes to heatsinks... near the 200F mark for a while would be enough to "fry things up!" ;)

the 100C i said may be a little too hot then.
but i think it was castle where i got that from.
100C is 212F, correct?

I still think everyone missed the joke in his post... I'm sure he knows 200 won't melt alum. Imagine an esc becoming arc welder... a dead short. That's what he meant I think.

lol no i got my answer the whole meltdown solder disjoint caps or w/e lol. that confusedme!!

CC is 200, but me personally would never bring my electronics to that level if at all possible. I pretty much like to keep my stuff around 150 or less if I can...

Lol, yeah, I'm sure BP's melting point post was "tongue in cheek"...

Funny stuff indeed! All well taken of course!

glad someone caught that :027:

Here is a visual....:036: still waiting for the thermal..
http://bomb-proofproducts.com/images/Hacker/CasT.JPG

totally my fault though, running 1/4 to 1/2 throttle testing other parts....which is a no no. Wouldnt have happened full throttle. Dont think many controllers would have survived it.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but why would that be a no-no?

Wow, that's the first MM I've seen that burnt. What could you be doing at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle to cause that - shorting the outputs? You know, you're not supposed to weld with ESCs. :dft012:

I don't suppose the heatsink is loose enough to come off now is it? I would love to know the part number of those FETs...

partial throttle always creates more heat/inefficiency than full throttle. The esc's like to be run full throttle. Same as in full scale electric vehicles, you try to keep the cars in 1st gear so they are full throttle at cruising speed for best results. They are most efficient at high RPM, which makes them less efficient at lower RPM...less efficient = heat.

nah no shorts (well..i am sure there was some shorting eventually). It was quite a fire show, had the body glowing white till it was unplugged.

that's crazy!

I bet that the smells good!