540C 7XL mounting problems E-MAXX
 

I just got my 540C 7XL today and when I mount it I cant get the gear mesh correct because the heat sink is hitting the transmission case. Does anyone know if I can just take a dremel to the heat sink where I need more room or if I have any other options with this.

You could try a bigger spur gear - in turn moving the pinion further from the trans case - or you could dremel a bit away - either option would work...

There was the exact same thread just a few days ago but with a Neu motor... he ended up dremeling the fins.

That's what I would do if a gear swap isn't an easy fix.

btw I just checked the cans...
Neu dia: 1.72"
540c dia: 1.69"
C50 dia: 1.70"

looks like dremeling is the way to go since I am running the strobe slipper, and its only like 3 fins that I have to take a little off.
Thanks for the help!!!

The Gorilla Maxx motor mount solves this if you are using the Gmaxx chassis.

nope just running the stock chassis for now

This is the reason why I didn't go with the "C" motor. I just went with the RC Monster heat sink. You can position where you need and it's thick enough to drill and tap to mount a fan.

that was the actual plan to begin with but everything other than the c motor was out of stock and I needed a motor to fulfill my appetite for now.

I know what you mean. I have that compulsive instant gratification need too.

actually sometimes even the gorilla mount wont help. was trying it yesterday if by any chance i can fit even the 14T pinion by modifying motor mount and no chance. still 1mm more needed.

This makes me glad I went to the wnaderer style motor with the RCM heatsink.

Well I did the dremel thing and everything turned out fine, you cant even really notice I did anything when it is on the truck

then it worked out well for you

How much difference do the fins make over the smooth can? Anyone know for sure? They are there for more than looks, right?

smoothies are 1.40" and feigao 540c is 1.59 i think.

It is there dissapate extra heat from the motor, Imo, id take a wanderer with a RCM heatsink since there are no possibilities in loosing the front/rear endbells.

I'll second that, the fins are the heatsink and discipate heat from the motor. I love running heatsinks on my motors if at all possible.

the fins will help more than a heat sink as a contact of heatsink is not perfect and using thermal paste is not really an option on this type of heatsing it also does not cover whole motor so fins are in my oppinion better but they limit pinion use bit more. well nothing's perfect :)

I have to agree with that statement, BUT, i have already seen a couple of XL "C" motors front end pop off, now if they were screwed on, i would clearly say that they are a better buy, but they are epoxied so there is a chance they can come off over time. But now if you get a Wanderer XL with a heatsink, there isnt much to worry about!

so i take the wanderer is pressed together?
thanks.

The wanderer has its front pressed with epoxy and the same goes for the rear endbell, but with a RCM heatsink it is protected both ways so there arent any chances of it coming apart.

Yes, the Wanderer's are pressed on.The RCM heatsink/motor clamp works very well to keep the end on and shed the heat though. Fitment is easier too since you can position the heatsink differently if the fins are in the way. And, if you need to mod the fins, you are only modding the sink, not the motor.

The fact that the C motors have integrated fins vs a motor with goop-coupled heatsink has little impact IMO. Whenever I have taken temp readings on my 10XL and the heatsink, they were very close to each other. Any differences were more due to the measuring inaccuracies (distance of temp guage, emissivity setting, etc) than inefficiencies of the bond. I'm sure there are differences, just nothing to really consider.

ok, thanks for the info guys.

I have had my 10xl wnaderer for some time now, it was my second BL motor(first was the hv). I have never had a problem with the end bells ever. I agree with Brian that discipation between the two heat sinks is very minimal.

I assume you are using the RCM heatsink with it?

The bearings on my 10XL needed to be cleaned recently, but other than that, I've had no problems with mine either, and I use the RCM heatsink.

IMO, what makes the C motors more attractive to buy is the fact that the C motor is cheaper than the equivalent Wanderer once you add the RCM heatsink.

That is correct Brian. I use the RCM heatsink and the 10xl wanderer. I really like this motor too. It has been through a lot and is still like new. I only had to clean my bearings a few times, which is really easy to do. I also had a 9xl (wish I would have kept it) that ran really well. Same set up, RCM heatsink and all.

Yeah. About the cheaper part, i would rather spend that extra 20 bucks and be sure its on there tight!

Exactly! Especially now that we know the endbells on the C motors aren't quite as solid as originally thought. And $20 is really a pittance compared to the amount of money we all spend cumulatively on these projects! :eek: And quite honestly, if someone is quibbling over $20, they are in the wrong hobby!

My thoughts exactly!

I wish I could by that cheap all the time! Say like a BL motor for 20.00! LOL, I know, I know, wishful thinking!

i think you can have BL motors for 20$
but just they are very little BL motors.;)

Not even Shafty! The little Mamba motors are 60 bucks.. ;)

the're smaller motors then that.

Yeah, I want to see an MM 8000kv run in my maxx! LOL

guess you are right, no bl motors for 20$
found a small wanderer for 70$
it was only 12mm diameter and 32mm long.
hahahaha.

LOL! I think it would fit thru the motor mount! ;):005:

$20 brushless motor....ok $20.5 brushless motor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220059209220