Help please!! 1st BL experience going south
 

I was running my e-maxx last night for only the 2nd time and I was having bad cogging problems. Then after about approx. 5min smoke shot out from under the body so I immediately shut down. I was running a 9xl on 16 elite 3600 cells with a 16tooth pinion, strobe slipper, and hb diffs. after everything cooled down I plugged it back in and ran it on my stand and it still seems to work. Motor temps got extremely high, about 290f. The first time I mounted the motor the stock titan screws were toolong and I put them in a little far. Could I have damaged somethng then and it is now causing me all the problems?

Are you using an external UBEC/receiver pack? what controller are you using?

If it's a warrior, you need to use an external BEC above 12 cells.

sorry forgot to mention that part. It is a 9920 and yes I am running the UBEC.

Where did the smoke cam from? the larger Ubecs Mike carries tend to give some smoke from time to time.

Any melted heatshrink on the controller or ubec?

A hot motor; you might want to check on the connection from the controller to the motor. The cogging/heat might be the result of 1 poor connection. I had issues like you are describing, and the problem was that 1 of the 3 magnets on the XL motor turned around.. Giving the motor poor power, cogging (distortion of the EMF feedback) and a lot of heat.

The heatshrink on the controller is partially melted and all distorted. The ubec is fine.

A hot motor; you might want to check on the connection from the controller to the motor. The cogging/heat might be the result of 1 poor connection. I had issues like you are describing, and the problem was that 1 of the 3 magnets on the XL motor turned around.. Giving the motor poor power, cogging (distortion of the EMF feedback) and a lot of heat.

I checked the connections and they seemed to be fine. When I get a chance tonight I will re-solder them and see what happens.

Okay, one other thing before you jump the Weller; Check for binding in the drivetrain.

already checked that everything is running smooth. could I have possibly damaged the motor with longer screws the first time I mounted it?

Yes, using long screws is a way to ruin a motor. Can you check how long they are and how far they stick in the motor.?

I got rid of the longer screws after i tried mounting it the first time but I did screw them in pretty far. They were stock screws for the titans. The screws I am using now are working just fine.

I tried running it with the long screws and it didnt want to move at all though.

Yep, sounds like you damaged the windings!

worst case the controller is damaged too.

Yup. You damaged the windings for sure. Don't feel bad, I did it to a $150 Lehner a couple years ago.

will the controller work at all if it is damaged? Up on the stand it will still balloon the tires.

Sounds like the controller might have survived. But it's hard to tell actually.

Can you shine with a light inside the mounting holes to see if you damaged some copper? (arh well, i am pretty sure you did, since it didn't worked with the long screws in)

Check if the motor runs smooth without a pinion, and turn it by hand. it should feel without any resistance. Then put to two of the three wires together, and see if it's getting more resistance.

it turns fine and if I put two of the wires together I feels resistance.

hard to tell what the problem is. It can be either the motor or the controller, or both.

Anyway; i wouldn't drive a damaged motor like that.

I learned the hard way as well...I had my 7xl and 9920 for a week and toasted both due to longer screws.

we'll see what happens I just ordered a 8xl with RCM heatsink and hopefully it works and I wont need a new controller. Any clue what BK charges to fix a controller? It should be quick since I am in germany.

I depends...I had mine fixed for free when, if I'm not mistaken, it got wet, but others haven't had all that great of service. Personally, I can't complain. Yea, it took a couple months, but better than spending $200 on another...

If the heatshrink on the controller is melted/distorted and the smoke came from there, you could have damaged one or more of the FETs. The controller could still technically work (if the bad FETs "opened" when they smoked), but there are a bunch of FETs in parallel so if you smoke one/some, then the others will be forced to work harder and will heat up more.

IMHO, I wouldn't run it until it's fixed. Running it as-is will just shorten the life of the remaining FETs.

You more than likely damaged the motor.
YOu may have damaged the esc as well.
You may want to look at some options.