Gearing G2R with LMT 1950?
 

Well, I've been trying to find some gearing to start off with when I get my 1950/6 Hi-Amp for my G2R.

Sylvester is running nearly an identical setup to what I will be running in his LSP. The only difference is that I'm going to run the 1950/6, and he runs a 1950/7. Otherwise, he uses the same battery packs and same ESC.

I put in the specs into BrianG's calaculator and saw he was running a final drive ratio of about 9, which is pretty darn low.

I figured I could run a final drive ratio of 10 or 11 and be ok, since my motor has more KV. However, to acheive that, I'm already running something like an 18T pinion and 38T spur, which is pretty dang high.

I know there must be something I'm missing.

Can anyone give me a good ball-park range of where I need to start? I don't wanna buy too many pinions, because at 12 bucks each they aren't soft on the wallet.

Anyways, my current setup right now is stock Revo diffs and an G1 single Speed tranny. I will probably be getting the 1/8 scale diff upgrade, which unfortunately lowers gearing, adding to the gearing troubles.

i don't know how you get at 9:1 gearing ratio. You must forget to include the spur/pinion.

A 17T pinion with a 51T spur (i assume you are using a MOD1 spur/pinion?) wll give you a 14.7:1 ratio with a 35 mph topspeed. a 20T pinion will give you a 40 mph topspeed.

(assuming you are going to use 4S. according to your signature...)

Sylvester is running 44/16 gearing with a center diff on his LSP. So you factor that in and it says total reduction ratio is about 9:1.

Sorry, didn't realized this was about sylvesters gearing, i thought it was about your revo. (seemed pretty obvious to me....)

and an LSP with 43/10 diffs and a 46/16 gives me a total ratio of 11.83:1..

Now please tell me what info you are looking for so i can provide you the right information (or at least; the information you are looking for)

Yup, 44/16 with a typical buggy rear/front diff ratio of 3:308 is 9.097:1. In a front/rear diff, the ratio comes from the pinion and ring gears. In a center diff, the spur and motor pinion take the place of the ring and pinion gears, so there is no additional ratio in a CD. Buggies generally have low ratios because there is no tranny.

Revo diffs are 2.846:1.
Buggy diffs are 3.308:1.
Emaxx tranny is second gear is 1.722:1
Total is 5.696:1 using buggy diffs without the spur/pinion ratio.
Total is 4.9:1 using Revo diffs without the spur/pinion ratio.

Depending what spur you use, it should be quite easy to get final ratios from 10-17:1.

an LSP isn't a buggy, it's a truggy, running 43/10 instead of the 43/13 as used in buggies.

OK, then:

Revo diffs are 2.846:1.
LSP diffs are 4.3:1.
Emaxx tranny is second gear is 1.722:1
Total is 7.4046:1 using lsp diffs without the spur/pinion ratio.
Total is 4.9:1 using Revo diffs without the spur/pinion ratio.

:)

This is in a Revo right? If not, I'm totally confused and will just shut up now... :)

Well, I don't really see what the question is now either :) But I can tell you that a 1950/6 on 4S (if that is what you wanna run) works well on a wide range of gearing. Probably one of the most "forgiving" setups I have. You can run it geared for 35mph for like forever, not much heat at all.

Ok, this new information changes stuff quite a bit.

Syvlesters final drive becomes about 11.8:1. Then, after I factor in the KV difference of our two motors I figure out I need a final drive of about 13.6:1

I'm going to start with 40/14 gearing (using a Revo 40T spur), which should give me about 14:1, just for a safe start. I'll also buy a 13 and 15T pinion and the other Revo spurs so I can play with gearing more.

Thanks guys :)

How would you be using a 40T spur?

Revo slipper...(I have my own "HSR" slipper in the works :) )

If it works, a writeup will follow - of course.

We'll hold you to that! ;)

I just got a little tired of waiting for ProCharged.

I have no problem waiting...but I posted asking for updates (as well as a few other users) in the thread, and he simply ignored us (it was quite obvious since he posted in threads in that forum section a bunch of times).

If he would simply say that he was delayed or whatever, thats fine...but to create so much hype up and then just go silent... Pretty annoying if you ask me.

I'm not bashing the product, since I was waiting eagerly for it. I'm merely just showing frustration for giving an approximate ETA, not meeting it, and then leaving me (and quite a few other users) in the dark.

Had I known this quite a while ago, I would have probably bought Squee's Kippster setup (which is still in the back of my mind).

Yeah, I know waiting can be tough. I'm waiting for something for my Revo (hint, hint GriffinRU ;))

And I've been waiting for my Hyper 8 Pro for 2 weeks... And we're all waiting for the Mamba Monster Max, etc. And BP, I know you're waiting for your stuff to sell or whatever and for those Lehner motors to get to Mike's door.

Speaking of your Hyper8, have you gotten any word on it's whereabouts MM?

-- Sorry for the thread hijack --

I think everyone is waiting for something, lol. I am waiting for Mike to finish my buggy and for the MMM to come out. I just hope it will be soon enough...

Well lets see, I'm waiting for:

1. a LiPo battery for my Micro-T
2. a tranny for Evo V3.3
3. a mp3 player I got in a trade for some RC stuff
4. a 1GB memory stick for my PSP I got in a trade for some RC stuff
5. a 7XL I got from Hippie

and a few other things I can't remember. Man...waiting for the mail man sucks....

LOL. If you get a package every day, it'll be like Christmas! :)

No, I think you mean Hanukkah...:p

lol, yeah I guess. :dft001:

I'll stick to the red and green and the spiny tree :)

Yea, but waiting for Mike or some sorts is pretty good...at least you get updates. But we haven't had a word on the HSR slipper after he gave an ETA of "a few weeks" over a few months ago. Thats just annoying...especially when I held off on stuff on that account.

And with Mike and the Lehner motors, we all know he'll plaster them with E-Mails 'till they mark them as spam and then call them until the number gets blocked before he'll give up.

Again, no problem with waiting...but waiting for the HSR is like getting told we were going to Disneyland tomorrow and then after we dont go for a few weeks they say "What's Disneyland?" when you ask.

I also might as well ask if anyone knows the bearing sizes for the 1950?

I'm going to try to find some Polyamide sealed ones to replace the metal sheilded ones (and buy a couple extra). If possible, I'll get them with ceramic balls. I have no problem dishing out the money. 10 bucks a bearing aint too bad when the motor is like 350...

Not saying I'm Jewish. Just saying that getting a presents every day sounds more like Hanukkah instead of Christmas. :p

The bearings on the 1950 are hard to reaplace, it takes a special tool

It makes no sense to replace them, the bearings that are used are of high quality.

Oh really?

Nevermind then.

But why the special tool?

well, the endbells are screwed on; you need something to hold the front endbell, since they are sitting very tight, and the motorcan is relative fragile/thin, you can't just turn it loose. I thought it required some tool to hold the motor that divides the pressure on the can.

Rene is right. The Lehner bearings are very good.

I copied the tool that Lehner uses to open the motors. Now I can replace them myself, but they last a long long time.

Daf, got a pic of the tool? And what bearings do you use? Thanks!

The tool is nothing special, just a plate with those 9 holes in it (one for the shaft, 8 for the screws) with a handle. In principle any motor plate would do, but 4 or 8 screws distribute the force better.

As for bearings, I just use some high-end machine bearings. Don't even remember the name, some local company. I think the stock ones are better, only ever killed one. Took like 2 years of driving and one bath :)

I wish I could replace the bearings of the 19 series ( though they are truely tough) with full ceramic bearings for ultimate smoothness and durability.

Whatever you want, just make sure to get the right dimensions, with the right flanges.

Sorry to be a bugger Daf, could you snap a pic of it just so im sure what your talking about? Thanks..