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e-revo?
well im piecing together a run of the mill e revo and was wondering which motor i should run
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...540C_XL&cat=20 http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...o5408xl&cat=20 http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...WAND_XL&cat=20 which one of these is the best for a mamba maxx revo. also i don't understand the names on lipo but i want to go with lipo on this so which batt would be a pretty decent setup. |
They are all basically the same motor. The Feigao 540CXL has built in heatsink and a better attached end bell, the Feigao XL is the basic motor, and the Wanderer is the same as the 8XL but suposedly with better bearings.
With the Feigao 8XL and the Wanderer you are porbably wise to add a rc-monster motor calmp to keep the endbells on. The 540XL has a built in heatsink and screwed on endbell. Basically, take your pick. They will all yeild the same results performance wise. Same motor, 3 different packages. EDIT: Welcome to the Forum by the way! |
A few problems that ALOT of guys on this forum run into when converting a revo to electric is the motor mount.
I on the other hand never did but I dont dare mention why or how because I could get SHOT. The other one is transmission, are you going to use the E-maxx trans. or the stock revo trans.? I myself bought a complete E-maxx trans. from ebay for under $70.00 and I modified the 2.5 chassis to fit but I didnt like the high CG after it was mounted so I ended up using the stock revo trans. and just epoxied the gears inside to work with the hole E conversion, but at least now if something were to go wrong with the stock trans. I will have a back up. PM me if you want to know more about what I did about the motor mount. |
thanks guys. this truck i just gonna be a basher so i got a emaxx tranny as well as the stock one. i figure i can use the emaxx one easily, then convert the stock one over and make a motor mount. i plan on using someones design on here for their motor mount with two rather thick peices of aluminum bolted together. thanks. what does everyone think about the newer hard cased lipos from companys. im not sure which brand but i have seen them and they look safer.
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Flightpower and Orion make awesome packs!
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how many mah`s can you get in a hard case orion pack?
If your bashing like I am as long as you build a strong enough bat. case then you shouldn`t have to worry about them getting damaged. P.S. glad to see i`m not the only basher here. |
The Orion Packs (and Peak Racing packs, which are both the same packs, since they are both the same company) are just 4800 and 3200. However, with the current draw you may pull, I would go for the 4800 for sure.
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Get the flightpower trakpowers. They are cheaper and deliver awesome voltages on the highest loads.. (plus they are 4900 mAh)
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thanks guys. so i only need to buy one lipo right? i seen people run two our more nimh packs but are lipos good enough to only need one? so far i got a revo with only a drivshaft and servos missing($50), i also gota mamba maxx esc, right now i am trying to find a emaxx trans, motor, or lipo for a partial trade on a new xl5 pede with several extra parts. next i will purchase the 540c 7xl motor from here and then it will be time to hunt down some batts. if anyoneis interested the pede is for trade or sale to help this project along. thank you all again for be of such great help.
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You either need 2 Trakpower Lipos to configure as 4S or a different pack that is already 4S. You will want to run a minimum of 14.4V on that motor/ESC setup.
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http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...4S_3700&cat=18
ok is this a decent option as for a good lipo. also i know that lipo need special atention to take care of so is there a nimh setup that is anywhere comparable in performance for price. basically my bro has a savage 25 and i want something just as awsome without the hassle of nitro. this is really a basher/track play truck. thanks |
I have an Emaxx tranny with the single speed hub, steel idler, strobe slipper, 51T spur, and the optional finned mounting plate I could part with. PM if interested. Note: the little screw holes on the top of the plate are scratched up, but otherwise, everything is fine.
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My buddy and I go out bashing together all the time and he has the savage x.
We had a little drag race and we couldn`t even call it a race because he couldn`t keep up and it was no contest so now we dont even bother but every blue moon we will get into an argument and Ill look at him with a grin and say " lets settle this in a race" and that usaly shuts him up. Their defanitly won`t be an issue of whos got the better truck thats for sure...... more power longer run time (depending on setup) race ready in house tuneing ( try that with a nitro ) easy cleaning and the list goes onnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn |
yea from what ive seen the brushless setup is better in every way over nitro unless you just love the sound and smell of nitro. i am on a mission to prove to my dad and bro that i can build an electric to stomp they're inferior savage. also about the tranny, right now i am looking into what all is envolved in making a stock revo tranny usable with the auto trans and reverse. but i will deffinitly pm you if i sell the pede
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http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...540C_XL&cat=20
aight im fixin to buy this motor here as soon as it comes back in stock, should i go 7xl, or 8xl? remember it is for a basher and im gonna be running a mamba maxx and a 4s lipo. is there much of a difference in the two? is one more preferred? thank you |
Having run the 7XL in both a buggy and a truck and having run the 8XL in both a buggy and a truck, I can say a couple of things.
First, the 7XL is a beast, or as much of a beast as you can get on 4S; but after having gotten over the initial thrill of the 7XL, I found the 8XL to be a bit more practical. A bit less heat, a bit better runtime, not much given up in terms of performance. I like the 8XL better over all. Besides, 5S isn't outside the realm of possibilities for the 8XL either, if you're thinking about the possible future. |
If you get to a point where you are trying to decide between the trakpower packs and the orion packs, beware.
Although the orion packs are made up of kokam cells, they are not the same cells that kokam uses in their 4800mAh packs. The orion packs are actually 2S2P packs rated for a 15C constant discharge. The kokam packs are 2S1P (or whatever configuration you get) packs rated for 20C constant discharge. The trakpower pack, IIRC, are 2S1P packs with a 20C constant discharge rating. I'd go with the trakpower packs. |
i finnally got the revo in the mail and man i got a deal. i traded a set of tlt axles $85 approxamate value for a near new revo. it was missing one rear axle and all the electronics. i am gonna sell the motor and nitro stuff on
e-gay then put the money back into it. i also recieved my mamba max and made an aluminum reciever/ esc mount over the rear shocks from the shock bolts to the pipe mount. its very sturdy, pretty, and doesn't make it impossible to adjust shocks. i'll get pictures up as soon as i can. next its time to tear into the stock tranny and convert it. thanks for all the help guys |
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sounds very famillier.
Have you figured out if you are going with the E maxx trans. or the stock revo trans.? Keep up the good work. |
wow how did you manage the clutch and what are the benifits of it. well last night i locked the stocker in second(using brian's three notchs and three screw metod) and locked out the reverse, and removed the brake components. today im gonna try to pick up some aluminum from the machine shop next door and star the motor mount and batter holder. i shaved the stock engine mount and that will be where i bolt it up. im also hoping to pick up the missing axle components and a 40t spur gear at the lhs.
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http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...d=RCMrevomount |
that looks killer but thats one of those "one day" deals. i am prolly gonna fab my own for now cause thats a little pricey for a truck i don't even have running yet. but thanks
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If you fab your own, make sure you at least re-inforce the motor mount area with the optional brace and/or incorporate the stock Nitro mount in the design. The plate WILL flex without some type of shoring up.
IMO, $60 is not bad at all for the mount in Mike's store, especially since it is a 3 piece design that also supports the rear of the motor. This fact alone will help keep spur in good condition since the mesh will be much more consistent. |
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but where would you mount the batteries?
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On the other side of the motor. See my Revo in the link in my sig...
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will the stock transmision hols up to brushless keeping it a 2 speed?
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I don't think the revo transmission is all that. I wouldn't put my money on it.
But it's way better than the first t-maxx gearbox.. |
The only problem I've had so far is that one of the pins broke that holds the output gear on the shaft. It's not as strong as they slipperential, but I like the fact that it is enclosed (including the CD if installed), provides some gearing reduction, and can have a two speed system.
I've never used it as a 2 speed so I can't help you there (wanted reverse and didn't want to use a servo for braking). Personally, I'd be a little concerned because second gear is engaged by a single clutch arm on a little pin embedded into the second gear. |
hmm maybe I should stick with my lst's since they have metal gears
I just want a new toy and I am still waiting for parts for the lst and revo's have gotten cheaper these days |
Yups..
Just take a close look at the exploded view.. It would explain.. :) It's build nice, don't get me wrong.. but not my interpretation of TOUGH.. |
If you want a new toy; what are you looking for? basher or racer?
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a little of both
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sounds like a good candidate for an e-revo..
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Just for clarification; I have NEVER had a problem with the gears themselves. As long as the bearings don't wear out creating mesh play, the gears should last a long time. As a matter of fact, my first attempt at locking second gear used epoxy which ended up coming apart. Even with the large pieces of epoxy floating around in there, the gears didn't show any damage whatsoever (which I was pleasantly surprised). The pin issue I had could have simply been a weak spot in the metal itself or whatever.
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well today was a good day. i got all the missing parts for the revo like the driveshaft and spur and also go the motor mount fabbed up. i spent $0 on the mount. i just went to the machine shop next door and asked if they had some scrap aluminum and he pointed to a bin and said take all you need. i got plenty of materials to make motor mounts similar to the one offered by rc-monster.com but i just stuck with simple cut up angled aluminum. at first i figured id have to make a super beefy mount but this friggin aluminum is some tough stuff. i can't make it flex with my hand so i have deffinitly got faith in it at this point. oh and i am using the shaved stock engine mount. thanks guys.
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oh and also, it now is pretty much a roller lacking only the motor and batt. i will order a nemesis 8xl this week, as well as the clamp/heatsink. then its just time to wait on funds to pay for some lipos. Also i wanted to thank everyone for answering all my Q's and being a huge help. i am a member of several other forums and it always seems like everyone thinks your a dumb*** if you ask questions, so thanks again for the support, its greatly appreciated and has made this build very fun.
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Congrats on your build! Always here to assist! Get some pics when you can of the project!
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Yes, pics are a definite REQUIREMENT! :) Consider it the fee for having your questions answered. ;)
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