Revo Slipper on E-Maxx Tranny Mod :)
 

Well, I just finished it. Mounted a Revo slipper on an E-Maxx tranny using the Revo input shaft. I'll post a more detailed writeup later.

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1...sidedi7.th.jpg

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2...annyum6.th.jpg

How dare you have the nerve to tease us like that...

And he did that over at the Traxxas forums too! The scoundrel! :mad:1

Tell me about it...

nice! May i ask where you got that motor mount? It looks to be plastic?

It looks like he just painted/anodized the optional motor plate. The stock one doesn't have those ridges.

maybe powdercoated

aah, so it is. yah, kinda looks painted or something

I think powder coating is too thick for something small like that...

Very nice BP. I look forward to the right up. That look like a good mod for the flrpmaxx when I go BL. I'm having slipper issues as is do to the added weight.

Its the aftermarket Traxxas motor plate anodized black. Hummerman (MRPaintin) did it for me along with my Pro-Line servo arm, bulkhead tie plates, Robinson Slipper plate (was running a RR slipper before) and my hex hubs.

@squee and Brian: LOL...I'll just have to tease you for a few more hours till I do the writeup :005:

I'll ban you...Don't think I won't!

LOL, then you'll never know!

Until I see the write-up, I'm claiming shennanigans!

Squee: LOL, enough tom-foolery!!!

BP: write-up NOW!

Ok slacker...where's the write up? :D

RCX is more important. Writeup will come after I get back. Sorry lol

i'm sort of suprised nobody is selling a modded top shaft to use the revo slipper since the strobe in no more,maybe Mike would if enough people were interested.i guess his focus is on the slipperential instead.there might be people who still want the 2 speed or just don't want to run a center diff.just a thought.

What's the consensus on the revo slipper?is it as good/better than the strobe?

You mean the strobe is no more? Does Mike not sell them anymore? I see it on the website....

Yeah i realised after i posted that,they're back in production.it was discontinued last year right? either that or i'm losing it:032: .

They were out for a little while, but Dave made another run or two of them.

What I know he's doing is using the stock Revo input shaft. This mod would be for Gmaxx single speeds only. However, I haven't taken apart the Revo tranny, so I'm not sure on the bearing sizes, and how close the Revo shaft length is to the shortened Emaxx shaft. Thus, this may actually be a very easy upgrade. :cool:

Alright guys, I've run into a few problems with this, and have been very busy lately. I'll try to elaborate as much as I can on this.

Anyway, I first bought a E-Maxx input shaft (which includes the gears, obviously) and used a nail and hammer to pound out the roll pin. I had tried drilling it, but broke a few drill bits until my dad gave me the hammer idea.

After that, I basically took a 2.5mm hexwrench (in hindsight, I should have used a 2mm, or found a ~2.3mm bar) and used that to pound it into the hole on the Revo input shaft. The Revo input shaft comes as just a shaft - no gears, nothing. It has 3 holes. 1 for the slipper, one for some gear that is secured by a pin like the Revo sliders are to the diffs, and 1 that sticks out to have a hex wrench put in to secure the shaft when tightening the slipper on the Revo (since its hard to reach and hold still).

Anyway, mount the gear in similar oreintation as it was on the E-Maxx shaft. This means that the gear facing the slipper side, and the hole on the gear lined up with the middle hole on the shaft. Use a hammer, vice, or whatever to force the pin in to secure the gear to the shaft. Then, the end of the shaft (hole 3) needs to be shortened to fit in the tranny.

Everything else bolts right up.

Now, here are the limitations and issues I've ran into.

First is that this can only be done with the G-Maxx single speed.

Second is that the spur is just too far away from the motor mount and the pinion won't reach. However, there is a ~3mm gap between the back of the slipper plate and the motor mount plate. I also have the thicker moter mount plate as well. The stock one is 1mm thinner, which means there is even a larger gap. This measurement also accounts for the "fins" on the rear of the slipper plate, which can be trimmed for more clearance.

There are two solutions to lessen this gap. First is to drill a new hole in the shaft (hard unless you have a drillpress, but probably the most factory and cleanest looking way).

Second, and this is what I will do, as I can't get the gear off my shaft to drill a new hole, is to use a plate of aluminum between the motor mount and tranny to space the motor mount out, putting it closer to the spur.

The last possible problem is the gearing. The Revo 40T spur is quite small. I'm using MGT spurs, which come in 46, 49, and 52. Kimborough also offers 48 and 50T versions (I will have a 48, 49, and 50 to choose from). These close spurs will make fine tuning gearing easier. All that is required is a 5x10x4mm ball bearing and to bore out the existing holes on the gear to 5mm so it fits onto the "pegs" on the slipper plate that holds the spur. For reference, the normal bearing size on the slipper is 5x11x4mm. Its also possible to bore the center hole on the slipper, but I decided on getting new bearings instead.

Also, I will buying the RR slipper plate to replace the stock one. It is thicker than stock, but has no fins, so it will still be strong yet still have more clearance that a stock one with fins.

A final option I have found for those willing to run 32P gears is to buy a RR slipper plate and modify it to fit the Revo slipper spur mount area. The design of the RR slipper plate has offsets to be center the spur, and the spur is designed in a way where mounting one way makes it sit flush and the other causes extreme offset. This could be used to ones advantage to place the spur closer to the motor mount.

Hope all this helps. Any questions/comments welcome.

Just to add, the MGT spur gears will still need to have the center hole bored out to fit a 5x10mm bearing. It's only a little bit, but I never had any luck fitting the bearing without doing so.

Can't Jato gears be used to get a little more diameter? Of course, those are 32p...

Nice write up!

What size (in standard size) in drill bits is equivilant to about 5mm for boring out the spurs.

well, 5mm is .1965" (according to my digital calipers). so a 3/16 bit would be just under that.

Read this then look at his Avatar:rofl::rofl:

Great idea. Thanks for posting.

thanks clod

BP Revo when you tried this setup a time ago was there any wobble in this setup. even if slight wobble is there any. the reason i ask this is because i made a similar setup but i used a Emaxx shaft and drilled a hole in the shaft that sticks out of the transmission for the revo slipper pads. The way i drilled the hole i have exactly 3mm gap between the slipper pad (with fins) and the motor mount (BTW i am using the same motor mount). i used a piece of heat shrink and attached it to the outer shaft to make the slipper plate slit snug on the Emaxx shaft because the 6 sided hex like shaft is slightly smaller than the revo shaft. In my setup i am using all the same stuff as yours except i am using the Emaxx locknut and Emaxx shaft. My setup has a very tiny side to side wobble and i was wondering if i do change to your setup will that eliminate this problem. also will this minute wobble affect my car in any way.

Has anyone tried this since it was posted? Does anyone have pics? Any new developments?

Seems to me that the rotor shaft on the Neu motors is quite long and they should work fine with this setup.

I have been using the revo slipper and input shaft with no problems using jato spurs w/velineon motors and a 72t 32p (emaxx spur maybe) with a Novak HV6.5.

The Neu motors shaft is longer then the one on the Novak so there should be no issues with offset using the jato spurs.

I have been using this successfully for the ~5 runs on my G2R since this mod was done (and since getting my 1940/7). It has held up fine to the 1940, and hasn't caused a single problem. My spur spins respectably true.

Right now, I have my slipper set that the truck can wheelie and handle full throttle launched with no slip, however, the slightest bit more than that (me holding the truck down with my foot) and the slipper gives easily. This is my favorite setup as I like the raw feel of a constantly connected driveline but I don't want to risk the drivetrain.

Thus far, I've been using stock Revo diffs without a problem.

Just curious...in an earlier post you indicated that the spur was too far away from the motor plate. How did you address this issue? I recall that you could address it one of two ways...drilling another hole in the input shaft and adding a small plate to address the gap.

Well, what if you used a RC Monster 18T mod1 steel pinion (they also have a 5mm bore and will fit on the revo input shaft) in place of the stock emaxx 18T gear (its a mod 1 pitch too right?)? Then you wouldn't have to drill any new holes in the input shaft...just break out the dremel and flatten a small spot on the shaft and then adjust to the correct position and then red lock tite. Voila! adjustable input shaft....would it work?

BTW...the reason I ask is because I am on my last two sets of Strobe slippers and I find myself frantically looking for an alternative! What will I use when they are gone!!!!!

I did get two direct drive units from Mike that will allow me to run a center diff in place of the Emaxx tranny, but that only helps me with my FLM Emaxx trucks...not the G3R Gorilla Revo.:tongue:

It works fine, this is what I did to my tranny and have not had any issues, just make sure that the flat spot is just the right size, so that the gear cannot slide down the shaft.

Hey Linc...

Do you have any issues with the motor rotor not being long enough to reach the spur since the slipper is on the back side of the spur?

Here is my setup when I had dual motors on the G1 tranny. The only mod done to the revo input shaft was to cut the end off just like you would for any G1 mod, no additional holes had to be drilled, no weird shimming the motor plate, etc. I have not tried using any mod1 spurs only 32p/0.8m tmaxx/jato spurs. And the spur spins way more true then it ever will on an Emaxx input shaft.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/PICT0876.jpg
Note the position of the pinions and motor shaft protruding from it.

If your interested in my G1 tranny and slipper I may be talked into a trade for an FLM center diff :whistle:

Thanks for sharing the pic. That pretty much sums it up for me-I'm going to do the mod and get rid of my last two Strobe slippers and sprong.

I actually have one extra gorilla tranny myself...so I am not in the market for another at this moment. FYI...Mike should be offering the FLM Maxx center diff unit soon. I think he was just waiting to hear back from me on shaft length before he went into production on them. I have given him that info....so it shouldn't be long now.

Not really, I run 5mm shaft motors, which are not to sensitive on the pinion placement.

The pic above is slightly misleading due to the angle. It looks like the spur and slipper are closer to the tranny that they will be. I was not happy with the distance that the assy sat away from the motor plate, so I ground a small flat spot and used a 18t hardened pinion.

Good to hear about the flm center diff chassis, looks like I will be building another maxx! That would make 6!

How close can you get the spur gear to the motor plate using the Revo Slipper?

Great idea btw.

Hey sike, take a look at the new emaxx, just the same.

You could mill the cooling fins off and possibly get the spur a few mm closer, the slipperential setup in the revo that metal man made has the fins off and it sits very close, not issues with the motor shaft length there.