what would be the best neu for me
 

OK i will be running about a 17lbs maxx. HB diffs, single speed, 125B, 40series tires, 16 cells and 51 and 18 tooth pinion. i want to go as fast as passable but i want to have reliable temps and i want to have a good amount of torque. I was looking at the 2700 rpm one but will it have enough torque what do you guys think. How is 18/51 gearing with quark 125b RC monster heat sink on 16 cells with the Neu. Thanks guys

17lbs? No way...

why will it not push it maby i misscalcultaed. it has flm chassis, flm bulks, flm shock towers, bigbores, and 40series 16 cells, single speed, hb diffs, ti arms, alu hubs,sliders,ect... does that sound like 17lbs

17 lbs.... :026: LOL

I think you are going to need a 1950, at least. IF IT WEIGHTED that much! And i doubt the Quark could even handle a 17 pounder.

Why do think it would weight so much?

here are pics mabey i miscolculated let me know what you think on wheight. here it is minus the electronis, wheels, and some other small stuff does this look like 17 pounds with everything (imagine)
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...P1010028-1.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010038.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010023.jpg

I think three things...

1. it will probably not be 17lbs...
2. even if it is... imo a 1515 would push it fine. I would be more concerned about the batteries and esc at that point.
3. 2700kv is too high, esp on 18/51 center diff setup.. that would be too high even for a buggy. Think 2200kv as a maximum... and probably like 12/51 or so on that motor.

But.. it's doable for sure imo. You just need to not go crazy with kv and gearing....

I would think he is closer to 14lbs. And as far as the motor on 16 cells, go with a 1515 2.5d I would think, the 1515 1/y at 2200 kv on 16 cells might be doable, but I would think in 90*F would get a tad warm for the batts for sure. As far as gearing on a single speed, if you have mod 1 pitch, go 16/51. The 18T is simply pushing it I would think. And, the RC Monster heat sink will not fit the Neu I believe. Not sure the demensions on the smooth ones, but the others are heat sinked already.

so 16/51 gearing on the neu 1515 2.5 on 16 cells would be safe and doable (sorry about the heatsink thing i would just get the already heatsinked can )

on the speed calc i would be getting about 30mph what would be the best application to get my truck to 40mph and be reliable, and not to hard on the motor or esc. ANything different batts, different motor, different gearing what do you guys think.
-Goal- get truck to 40+ running as effecientaly as possable (how can i do this )

You could most likely run the 18T. You could push it to the 2200 kv Neu, with 18/51 on 5s Lipo...that would get you there.
But remember dependability. And at those speeds, it's hard to bash like you may want to, especially without wrecking things. You have a basher chassis too, so your center of gravity is not the lowest. you could gear the 2.d to 18/51 and see what speeds you get....play with it....but remember the goal should be around 35,000 RPM for your motor, you want your batts to stay somewhat cool as well as your esc...

what about on 4s what about running a higher kv because i might use a123 batts and they have less voltage. but 4s is what i would have to do i have to do 2s on each side.

You must be running the emaxx tranny with mod1 spur?? I was thinking you meant a center diff setup. Just need to be clear on that cause it makes a bit of a differentce... :D

Ok... me is dumb... now I see the pic with the trans.. I missed it before, sorry. Scratch my comments on gearing.

do you think that when the MMM comes out it will be able to push 40+ in my car on 4s a123(13.2v) if you had to guess do you think it would be that powerful.

Glass doctor it will be a single speed with mod one and strobe

I was origionaly going to run the 8xl on 18t with motor and esc heatsink and 4s A123 untill the MMM came out but i have been searching around the fourms and many people are saying how they want to upgrade from there 7xls to neus and lehners, so i was trying to figure out if i would be happy with the 7xl. just second guessing m self i guess.

With this truck... I think the 2200kv would be a good choice. I prefer a bit lower myself with taller gearing, but the 2200 suits the lower gear ratios you have with the maxx tranny.

If you do A123's... you can always go 5s. You don't have to be stuck with the "factory" packs.

You will know what to do after you run the nimh packs... if 16cells is just right then do 5s... if 12-14 is enough for you then do the 4s....

how does this sound? Does it sound doable, safe, reliabel, and not to hot
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075 (buggy)
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223 (second gear single speed)
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 51 (strobe)
Pinion Tooth Count: 16 (mod one)
Total Voltage: 19.2 (16 cells )
Motor KV: 2200 (Neu 1515 1y)
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.19 : 1
Total Ratio: 18.15785 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.22 inches (462.82mm)
Total Motor Speed: 42240 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 40.14 MPH (64.48km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.09mph/V (3.36kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 2200

how does this setup sound

That sounds good to me. Although, enter a current value around 20-50A so the effective calculated kv will drop to more of a real-world value. This will affect your top speed of course, but the output will be more realistic.

so this should work fairly well in my truck reliably and effecent(neu 1515 1y, 16 cells, hb diffs, 51/16 gearing ) does this sound like a solution.

are the rpms to high

They are higher than you'd typically design it for, but I guess it depends on how long you plan to be running at full-tilt. Don't forget that the kv of 2200 is unloaded. In the real world, it will be less depending on how much current you are pulling and therefore will reduce overall rpm...

i would be running 16cells mabey 4200 or 3800 mah what kind of run tiems should i expect and knowing this does this sound nice a good(remember neu has built in heatsink anyway)
Also would just running the rc monster quark heatsink without the fans be cool enough for the esc or would i need fans

The neu's are good and cool running motors. Though it will be a fast setup with the 2200kv motor. Nieles was using a Neu 1512/2600 kv on his revo, on 4S lipo the motor was stil cool.

fans would be a good choice.

And if they are not cooling it down, they can still clap and applause...

so do you think i could go with out fans and still not overheat the esc (using esc heatsink only) what kind of runtime should i expect with 4200 or 3800 16 cells at bashing pace.

I have not used a fan on any of my conversions (I hate using fans) and they run fine without thermaling (temps are lower than 140*F), even my Hyper 8 with a hot 2600 KV motor.

what kind of runtime am i looking at with these cells and how long do they typically take to charge.

The time to charge depends on the charge current selected. Charging the 4200 cells at 2.1A will take about 2 hrs. Charging them at 4.2A will take about 1 hour.

Runtime is soooo hard to estimate since so much depends on driving style, weight, etc. But a rough guess would be 15-20 minutes of general bashing.

can i charge 2 batts at once on the ice charger with an adapter

As long as you don't exceed the cell count of the charger, yes.

I would use fans on the Quark with that setup.
My e-maxx running 14 cells, 51/13 (and stock diff gears), 7xl, Quark with the heatsink from rc-monster, one 40mm fan and a 3'' fan on top of the motor and ESC, and it couldn't finish a 5 minute race without thermaling. I was told by sky & technology that I'm over geared :031:...with a 13t pinion!
The Quark is a nice ESC to drive with in terms of smoothness, but I don't really have much faith in its capabilities at the moment.

You really need to do some kind of heatsink mods. I would just pull it apart and use thermal adhesive to bond it to the bottom of the case.

Yeah, I will probably do that once I get this one replaced, since it would thermal when the casing was barely warm you can tell heat isn't transfered from the inside to outside well enough.