My E-Revo questions and build
 

Hi all,

I posted about BL e-maxx some time ago, and the project changed to an e-revo.
So far I have;
Revo 3.3 roller
E-maxx tranny
MM esc
Heatsink/clamp fo the motor
pinions and steel idlers
UBEC

In the mail is coming an 10XL motor.

So far I've fitted the tranny onto the chassis, not bolted on yet, need to clean things up first.
But the first problem arose, as the front center shaft is too short, do I really need to buy steel custom dogbone CVD's (dont want to) or is there and alternative option?
I was thinkin using 2 outside shafts and joining them using inside slider and some super glue... Opinions?

that is exactly what i did but i only glued it to one of the outside sliders so that taking it off and on becomes easier... i just like the iedea of the sliders so i stuck to them verses the dogbones that came with my g2r chassis... the bones are definitely stronger though... i broke one of the center shafts landing from a big triple with to much power... however it it was a cold -10 degrees... also i would use shoe goo or something similar (flexible and strong) versus the super glue

Shoot Mike an email, he can make you any type of dogbone you need.

(ask for Mike at manufacturing)

i think a revo rear will work or a emaxx cut down, worth a shot, the sliders hold up pretty good

(ask for Mike at manufacturing)...lol...that is funny....so there is different Mikes to talk to.....cool, i'll remember that

I was speaking to mike @ R&D before - we were on a conference call with mike in product design - interesting call to say the least.... :005:

lol, did he have himself cloned? :)

hmmm, that would be something to see...so let me take a shot at this....on the following Mike's

Mike in Product design & development
Mike in Manufacturing
Mike in Ordering
Mike in Customer service
Mike the Secretary...(no shorts please...lol)
Mike in Shipping & receiving
Mike the forum guru
Mike the racer
RC-Monster Mike

Man that is a whole lotta Mikes.....

You forgot "Mike, the one who is often mistaken for Superman"....

Opps....I knew there was one i missed...thanks squee

shoe goo or similar would be better, indeed. I'll first try to use extended revo centers, and if it fails has anyone shortened an axle drive shaft? Might work well if it fits...

Progress so far

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00090/513913.t.jpg

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00014/513919.t.jpg

Trays actually vent wrong, I made cardboard models, witch I used tu cut them, and actually in a hurry made mirror images. that is why they arent so nicely in contact with the chassis. Not good, gotta make new ones sometime.
Still some cleaning up to be made and get batt straps, esc and rx into it.

That took quite some hammering to get the chassis flat.. :)

Some... but not so much, little bending with pliers and a nice tap or 2 in right places. Actually the outings arent completely flat near the main chassis, did not want to deform it

I like them trays. How did you make them?

I need some details please...:030:

Looking good!!

Trays are plastic, shock proof in a temp range of -40 to 80 centigrade. It's an mailbox. lol
They were supposed to have a sidewall at outside and back. And to be an perfect fit to chassis, but as said cutting then in a hurry I cut them from wrond corners of the box, so I made mirror images. Had to modify chassis sides flat and now it has sidewalls at font and back. bummer.

More progress

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00043/514456.t.jpg

How have you guys attached the MM controller? It has no screw holes or ears to attach with...

Double sided tape works like a charm..

What about making a flat plastic plate with mounting "ears" and glueing/epoxying that to the bottom of the MM case?

Moi muuten j-man ! Kiva projekti, mullakin on e-revo:005:

Good one, might give it a try, ty.

@E-revolution Cool, I did notice it on Rc-harrastus.com. We're practically neigbors, I live in Kirkkonummi. lol

I live in Siuntio, very near, 15 km :D I am tapsa92 in www.rc10.fi and www.rc-harrastus.com ;)

I go with nics j-man and v8440, somebody took stole my nick :035:

Would I get away without an flat spot on the motor saft? :032:

Personally, I'd put a flat spot. These motors have lots of torque and the grub screw might slip creating heat for nothing. It's easy to put a flat spot with a dremel.

Ok. I've got an cheap dremel copy, and I destroyed all my grinding bits on the chassis. I'll take the motor and all electronics to work tonight.
Night shift is good for doing stuff that can't have kids around :005:

Maybe I'll get it running tomorrow, if I figure how to usen my "new" radio, Futaba 3PJS. Prior to this conversion, I only owned an E-maxx for 3 months, before selling it to a friend and it had the stock radio, 3PJS seems alot more complicated.

One more thing, motor wires, MM has red, black, white and 10XL motor has red, green and yellow. I figure red ->red and others anyways they happen to go, just different rotation direction if reversed...?

Sorry dout all the dumb Q's.

Motor wire "polarity" doesn't matter. I usually hook up red to red, black toblack, and white to white at first. If the motor spins the wrong way when forward throttle applied, swap any two wires. If the mismatched colors are aesthetically displeasing to you, cover the offending wires with colored heatshrink. :)

Finnished! I did move. Not very fast tho, couple of mph. I did have the punch control to 100% and radio setting arent set. And it raining so have to test better later, my 2 year old gets scared if I drive it inside...

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00015/522868.t.jpg

No cliching, but the ESC makes a sqeel kinda noice at first. Normal?

yes mine squeeled aswell, most esc's do that.
only when trottle is very low, right?
oh yes, nice work.

:005:

Yep, just when it's barely moving.

Is the ESC that is squaealing, or the motor? The motor is what is supposed to make the beeps and digital music :).

no he means the motor.

the controller sends short pulses to the motor and then you hear the beep

you can hear it is the motor because every motor has a other sound, the lmt motors have the coolest beep. if you have a few other motors you should try it and hear the difference

Man is it sweat! No gogging, works great. It's so smooth I can even drive slower than with my long gone stock e-maxx.

There is the light show and beeps and digital music when turned on, and just as it's barely moving an sqeel kinda sound. Dont yet know if it's the motor or esc.

I got roughly 16-20 minutes of run with 12 cells IB4200SHV, and it was -3*C weather. Half WOT, half anything from crawling to mid speed.

After from what I could understant (I was freezing), ESC was very cool, but motor got a bit warm/hot. I gues it's a bit under geared?
I still need to weight it to see how heavy it is.
And get an good slipper before making any big jumps, running some diff balls in the spur now and hence not much slip:027:

If I didnt mention it has got 10XL motor, MM, 66t spur, 18t pinion, UBEC, steel idler for 2nd gear. Will post better pics later, lookin better 'cos got it dirty finally :005:

Yeah, I did mean that the motor actually makes the beeps, but of course the ESC sends it the signal to do so. If you have the motor not mechanically hooked up, you can see the shaft turn slightly when it beeps.

I read a little bit about why motors will do this and it said (can't remember where exactly) that the wires vibrate because of the frequency. If they are tighter winds, the noise sounds muted - like in a Neu motor where the coils are wrapped around some kind of core to concentrate the magnetic flux.

Final pics after first run, cleaned the wires a bit.

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00034/525509.t.jpg

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00082/525514.t.jpg

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00059/525517.t.jpg

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00013/525521.t.jpg

http://www.aijaa.com/img/00004/525526.t.jpg

After cruising around with 12 cells, I moved to 7 cell packs, IB4200's. I've been testing them for a while now, on loose dirt, packed dirt, grass, and pavemet.
No matter what I do, the MM esc does not get varm, just slightly over body temps, batteries are a bit warm and motor 2 sec touchable.

More voltage? Does MM handle 15-16 cells, thats almost as much as 5s lipo, and I understand some problems with MM handling it? Or would the fact that nimh gives less amps help MM to handle it?

if you want a little more speed you can also gear up a bit in stead of adding more batteries.

^^ +1.

The fact that the motor is quite warm compared to the ESC usually means it is a little undergeared.