Castle may have lost one
 

I got tired of waiting on castle to release the MMM and i got plans for the two MM i got, so i just ordered two quark pro125's for my two MT's. I might get a MMM, when they come out.

does anyone got advice for setups? I will be running 7XL and 9XL till i get a couple Neu's, waiting on advice from Mike. So any advise on setups will be appreciated. I will be running the RC-Monster esc plates as well

I think Castle stands to lose alot if they don't release something this year.

Setup is pretty easy and depends on how you run. If running lipos, I always set the LVC to "manual" and then to 3.0v/cell. The pre-set options are lipo-high and lipo-normal IIRC, and I have no idea what the cutoff voltage is for those.

Be sure to keep an eye on the heat from the Quark. My limited experience with them showed that they generate a lot of heat, so you'll want to add the heatsink and probably fans to them.

I have mine wired up with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as a sink that was mounted to my chassis and on the hot day that I ran it, I was getting up to 170F, which I believe is within limits, but is still hotter than the 150 at which my MM runs.

Much of the Quarks' heat may come from programming options and obviously gearing.

I think 170 is still a bit hot. Electronics always perform and last better when the temps are kept in check.

For coolest running I have found that the Lipoly Normal and the soft torque settings help alot with generating less heat. I found this after talking to frank at quark and he recomended these settings for cooler running. It does help a little. From what I understand the Lipo Normal vs Lipo High setting somewhat limits the peak amps it will allow the ESC to draw. I cant really tell a diference in the acceleration and performance of the system set to normal vs high but it does seem to run cooler. The torque setting has a similar effect as it slows the spool up of the motor and helps keep the amp draw a litttle lower. I'd recomend starting with the settings in the conservative (low,normal) settings untill you can run it a few times and assess you individulat heat situation. If you are coolw tioh the heatsink you can bump them up and see if you can tell a difference. I couldn't though.

thanks I will follow the advise, I'm going to get the paste and esc mount as said and will use fans. this will be my first other than a Novak or castle

Yeah, at the time I fried my Quark, I was playing with the settings, IIRC, I was at LiPo High, and Dynamic torque. So it was prob getting a work-out with my 7XL. :026: That's prob what tipped it over the boiling point.

If you are talking about using the paste to fasten the esc to the heatsink, I'd use arctic alumina epoxy. It will work better. The paste and zip ties won't work as well.

Are you going to buy the heatsink that Mike sells in his store for the Quark? I like it and use it myself, but find it a little on the heavy side. It does work very well though.

I'm not sure how exactly i am going to mount it, but i will get the esc plate. Will the chassis on the Gmaxx be a good heatsink for the esc? or, will the esc plate be better?

As far as I'm concerned, the bigger the heatsink the better. The chassis the the largest heatsink available. If you can affix the controller to the chassis, you should be good. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the way that Mike runs his Quark in his emaxx.

If you use the chassis as a heatsink, just make sure the entire back of the controller is covered for best effect. Mike has a "special" rear plate made up for his G2 chassis and the Quark mounts to a flat surface with fins milled on the bottom side and has a place for a fan to attach and blow over the heatsink fins.

My G2 chassis has the extension and a hole for a fan, it will be used as well. On the RC-Monster heatsink, should i put the esc on the flat and the fan on the side with the design on it?

Yes... ESC mounted to the flat side and the fans on the other. There are screw holes to mount dual 40mm fans on the finned side of the heatsink.

The nice thing about the mount is that its thick enought that you can add extra 3mm screw holes anywhere you need them to mount it anywhere you need it. Ive added screw hols in a couple of mine to make for clean and simple mounting.

I have fournd that the thermal epoxy isnt needed. Arctic silver thermal paste and a couple zip ties do the trick for me. Once the arctic sliver sets after a week and creats a soft bond to help keep it from sliding around also. But the zip ties have been enough for me.

Mounting the fan under the chassis plate is convienient, but the fans dont last very long mounted top side down like that. One big jump and the blades pop right off. See if you can come up with a configuration that puts the fans on their side. or at least at an angle rather than flat.

thanks Jhautz, I was figuring a couple washers under thwe fans would allow some movement of the fan blades without contact

Its not the contact on the plate that the problem. Tha fan baldes are only pressed onto a shaft and when you land the fan blades pop off from the force of the landing.

You can make your fans a little tougher here is a thread on how to do it http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6873

Thank you Cartwheels, Do you know if JB Weld will work? I got it handy and use it for everything

Edit; Never mind, I checked and it contains iron powder and will not work

they came in today and look smaller than i thought, they look big in the pics. I guess pics add 15 pounds after all, too bad its not in good heatsink;). while i wait for the heatsinks, I will try one on the esc plate i made for the revo with Emaxx tranny. play around with settings and light driving and see how it does. thanks for the advise guys. Next question, What Neu motor should i get? My Gmaxx has UE diffs and a slipperential, my G2R has an EMaxx trannywith steel idler and upgraded stock diffs. My aim is for bashing and racing with speeds comparable to nitros

I assume you'll be running 4s? If so, the 1512 2.5d (kv=2000) or 1515 with a similar kv; like the 1515 1y (kv=2200) or the 1515 2.5d (kv=1700).

well, I want one that is a little flexable. I will start at 4s for tests and till i get the heatsinks, probably stick to 4s for racing, But i'd like to go 5s every once in a while for kicks, probably stick to 4s mostly though

Actually two motors, but not sure how the difference in the two trucks will effect motor selection

Then get the 1512/2.5D. (2000kv) Great on 4s for the track and can easilly handle the 5s for bahing with a llittle more speed.

thanks, can it be got with a smooth can? I got one truck with a transmission and don't want to dremel a 240+ motor

You'll probably have to email Mike for a smooth can 1512 2.5d. If he doesn't happen to have one laying around, he'll have to order it...

ok thanks, sounds like the motor i need. now to order up

Yes they come in smooth can and shouldnt be that hard to get. I have 2 of the 1512/2.5d motors, both of them are smooth can.

I wasn't sure exactly which to get so got both and figured i'd ask before using them. One is called super thermal silver compound, and the other is called high density thermal compound. The super thermal is called artic silver 5, and the high density is called cramique. I was just wondering which i should use.

I also found these and was wondering if they will work on the side of the Quark esc? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2216875&cp If not, no big, but thought they might help. and last Question before i start, I was looking at the instructions and see in the hard lipo and normal lipo the cutoff is 2.7v per cell, to change it you need to go to manual and that will mess up using the normal lipo. Will it be ok on 2.7v per cell

got one of the quarks running in the G2R, just set radio to esc and tested to see if it would run good. WOW!!!! it seems to have more power than the mamba, I crushed a diff in 5 minutes, it was upgraded with integy cups and cases. Since the upgrade i have hammered it hard and they seemed good, till the quark. I am running the same setup as with the mamba, 9XL and 5s, I didn't set anything except for the esc to radio. I am impressed, All i need now is the rc monster heatsink, a V2 slipperential and a set of 1/8 diffs and she'll be perfect. I may get a new chassis as well, this one is scratched up and bent in a few places

So the Quark is running good for you? Seems to be more horror stories than success stories with that ESC lately. I guess we just have to remember that the Quark is still a 1/10 ESC, not a MT ESC, so we're actually using it out of spec (like most do with the MM).

Diffs would last longer if you used Al cups to prevent cup flex. Just don't forget you'll need to gear up a little to compensate for the lower geared diffs if you go with the 8th scale ones...

I had integy cups and cases and everything was shimmed, this was a blacktop test on wet blacktop. I believe there was a dry patch in the blacktop that grabbed a little hard. It was still wheelieing through sheer force of the tires though, it would be spinning then it was like the force of the wheels spinning just made it take off

Ok i got a 1515/2.5d/f for the G2R based on Mike's opinion that i need about an 18 to 20 pinion ( I don't want to dremel a 300.00 motor. I need to know what timing settings for 4 pole motor, if it matters. I also got the RC-Monster esc plate for the 125 and will get some fans as soon as i know i need them (I prefer to not run them if i can) thank you