Some more questions... which one?
 

I know I have asked many questions about my buggy conversion, and unfortunately still haven't gotten much progress :mad:1. But right now, I have two options that I am really considering:

1. Hyperion EOS 1210i, LBA10 balancer, MM, 8xl, UBEC, motor heatsink, True-rc 4s2p 8000 pack, pinion = about $612 - $617 including shipping.

2. Hyperion EOS 1210i, LBA10 balancer, 5s2p 8000 pack, wait for MMM or R1MT, Neu 1515 2.5d or 9XL motor depending how much the MMM or R1MT is = about $385 including shipping minus motor/esc.

I am hoping to order the charger/balancer today, and depending which option I choose, I may buy a few more things tonight/tomorrow. The problem is that I ultimately want to run 5s, but I don't want to risk frying the MM, so if I use the MM, I would probably go 4s. Any opinions are greatly appreciated. I am just really eager to get out and drive it, after having it sit on the shelf for so long. This is my only rc right now because I sold my others to fund for this conversion.

Thanks

It would be great if I can hear some opinions tonight before I go ahead and order the charger/balancer. :)

i'd help ya out if i could, but my stuff is in another direction (lehner 1940/7, matched ni-mh packs, dual Ice chargers). although i am in the same boat with trying to figure out what esc to run the lehner with... most say the MM, but i too am curious how 'stupid' my truck can get on 5s, and i'm too afraid to do that with the MM.

here's what i may do: can you start with the MM on 4s, then once the MMM or tekin comes out, move the MM to another truck (or start a new project)? in my case, the MM will be moving to my jato project.

sorry i couldn't help out more... i know first hand this stuff consumes a lot of brain cells in a day figuring out the right choice to make... :026:

I actually never thought of that. Thanks. Did you get your Lehner a while ago? Because I can't seem to find one anywhere...

i just bought it 'new to me' a couple weeks ago, but it's used. the same guy had a new bk 9920, but it was a replacement due to his first one that went bad. now that BK and LMT aren't playing nice together, i decided to go with another esc (even though the BK was a great deal). i'd like to think i'm patient enough to wait for the MMM or R1MT, but i don't think that's gonna happen. :005:

I'm not sure that I understand your question. Your options seem to be either to have a system now, or wait for one. My answer will always be get it now.

The Hyperion charger is as good as or better than others that are available with like options. As for the MM, they are good inexpensive escs and will serve well as a back up when the better ones are released. The Feigao motors are only about $70 or so. In the long run, even if you wind up getting a MMM and Neu later, you've still only spent under $200 to have something now and they will serve as backups or as system for a future project.

As for the battery configuration, you really have to know what you're getting into with a 5S setup. I've run 5S in my truggy with a 9XL and it's just stupid. I run 4S most of the time. In a buggy, I'd say that 5S is too much. I'd stick with a 4S setup.

Of course, what works for me, may not be enough for you. Try out the 4S config first. If you go with a Feigao, go with the 8 or 9XL. If you go with the Neu, go for the 2200kv motor. You cravings for speed and quickness should be satisfied.

Well, I only needed a couple replies, but I think I am already persuaded. :005: I'll be buying the charger/balancer for sure tonight, and hopefully will be buying the rest within the week or two. I'll keep you all updated on the progress. :)

I've only had my neu 1515 2.5d (1700kv) running for about a week so far. I bought it to run in a truggy on 5s (TrueRc 8000mah, haven't gotten to use them yet so I can't say what they're like).
Since the truggy's not quite ready yet I thought I'd try it in my e-maxx (the neu). With 51/20 gearing on 12 and 14 cells it had about the same power and speed as a 7xl geared 51/13 on the same voltage. Except that the feigao would get to mid 50's degrees C (~130F+) or more with a fan and the neu got to 36 C (97F) with no fan and the quark was cooler.
Basically what I'm saying is that the 1515 2.5d seems to work well on 12 and 14 cell therefore should work on 4s, while still being able to run 5s reliably and 6s should be ok for some higher speed stuff, so the one motor can work in a lot of different setups.
Though if your going to use 4s only the 2200kv 1y would give better perfomance, and should be ok for 5s every once and a while.

Thanks, I don't really want to risk having the Neu cog on the Mamba Max, so I'll probably just order the 8xl and the heatsink and hopefully it stay fairly cool.

BTW - I already bought the charger, balancer, and esc.:027: I think tonight I'll be ordering the rest... :027:

RC,

Buy the Feigao 540 "C" Series 8XL. The one with the integrated heatsink and improved bearings/endbells.....if you go Feigao that is.

Pro.

ProCharged5.0, where did you hear they are better bearings?

I read somewhere that the std. series gets 40,000 rpm rated bearings and the 540c series gets 50,000 rpm rated bearings. If I can remember where I got the info I'll post it.

I believe that the C series and smooth can series are the same motor. The C series of motors are nicer in that the integrated cooling fins do help to keep the motor cooler, but the C series has its own problems, such as the end bells falling off.

The XL motor (any of them) can and will display brutish power and are nice motors for the money; but are inefficient. This means that they will run hot. I run a 9XL with a homemade heatsink that completely encapsulates the motor and I can run on a track for 20-30 minutes before the motor begins teetering on the 200*F mark and I have to let the motor cool.

On the TrueRC 8000s:

Be sure do double check the specs and they layout you are looking at. These cells are good, but they are wider than normal batts @ 50mm, ie they will not fit in std trays. 5S 8000 is quite heavy as well. I think mine is ~950g.

For a 4s operation, I would go w/ their 6400packs. These offer me great runtime, ~1hr bashing around, and 20-25min+ hard running. They are also a std size so will fit a bit easier.

5S/8XL is stupid crazy power in my Revo. Can't imagine a buggy on it.... I would go to 4S, and prob even a 9XL for more reliabilty, you will not be diassapointed.

The 9XL is, in my opinion, the best way to go. It doesn't get as hot as quickly as the lower turn motors and the performance is definitely there. When running 5S it is still insane, but to a lesser degree.

Thanks for the info. I am now leaning toward the 9xl. But would it be safe to run an 18t pinion? Will this be too over geared and cause a lot heat? As of right now, this is what I need to buy:
1) Feigao 9xl http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...WAND_XL&cat=20
2) UBEC http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=6vubec&cat=21
3) Rc-monster heatsink (XL size and black) http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...d=RCM01&cat=20
4) 5mm mod1 18t pinion http://www.rc-monster.com/gears.php
5) True-rc 4s2p 8Ah pack (anyone know if Mike can order one?)

I went with the 8000 pack because I really need a lot of run time. I'll only be running 1 battery for the time being, until I can get some extra cash for rc's.

Thanks

When I run my 9XL, in my truck, I gear it at about 14 to 16/46. In my buggy, I go 16/46. 18/46 shouldn't be a stretch, although it may be too much to handle on a track.

Okay, thanks. This isn't a very big racer type buggy, so I am glad to go as fast as possible. It will see it a track every every so often, but it will be more of an all around basher, as this is my very first nitro to electric conversion. My two previous rc's were electric to begin with. They just both had a ton of upgrades.:027:

I am about to order the rest, and everything is in stock except for the mod1 18t pinion. How should I get a hold of Mike? Email him, call him, what?

Thanks

Place your order on line and send him a note that you want the 18T pinion too. He'll let you know if he has one. There are quite a few times when he has some things in stock that dont show up on the website. If he has it you can add it to your oder and combine the shipping. He has done that for me a few times now.

Unfortunately, I ordered before your reply jhautz. It was actually only minutes after the order because I checked right before. Thats all right though. I sent Mike an email right after for him to include the pinion.

I am pretty excited though, since I now have everything I need ordered... well, except for the pinion, lol. But my first nitro to electric conversion is right around the corner. :027: Wish me luck!! :)

Thats what I meant. Place the order and send him a note that you want to pinion too. He'll let you know if he has one. If he does you cn add it to the order.

Fun stuff. Cant wait to see how it turns out!

Well, I got my order from Mike. I got the 9xl motor, black heatsink, 19t pinion, and a UBEC. I am still waiting for an MM, Hyperion charger and balancer, and a 4s battery.

My question was, what do you use to make a slot in the motor "pin thing" (forgot name) for the pinion to sit in. How deep should I make it also? I was thinking either to dremel the slot, or file it down, which will take really long. I was also thinking to go down about a 1/3... is this enough, or too much? Also, the motor didn't come with any screws, what kind of screws do I use to secure the motor?

Thanks

post pics of that black heat sink! me wanta see!!!!

and imo use a file, dremel can be to fast, and u dont want to go to far.... and id go just like a lil bit, just enuff for the pinion to sit on

I can't seem to make the pictures smaller. Can you PM me your email address so I can send them to you? And then you can post them here for everyone to see.

pm sent

Here's a couple of pics of the black XL clamp/heatsink on my buggy.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture083.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture078.jpg


I have tried to file a flatspot on a motor before, and filed away for 10 mns and afterwards coudn't even tell where I had been fileing, maybe my file isnt good enough and I needed a diamond one (i do buy cheap tools against my dads advice) or maybe the Mega Motor I tried on has a harder shaft than Feagio, I didnt even try to file the flat on my Feagio, I just went straight in with the dremel after I taped up the motor and it turned out nicely.

email sent back e-maxx.

Anyone have any idea where to get screws to mount the Feigao motor, or what size they are supposed to be?

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...O/DSCF0773.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...O/DSCF0776.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...O/DSCF0778.jpg


there yah go man

Take the sticker off of the motor. You will get better contact with the heatsink and it will do a better job. The sticker is acting like an insulating layer between the motor and the heatsink.

Ok. Thanks. I'll probably put the receiver sideways, on that same side. And then move the UBEC to the other side next to where the MM will go.

Anyone have any idea where to get screws to mount the Feigao motor, or what size they are supposed to be?

3mm screws. Standard stuff for RC. Just pick a length that doesnt when they are mounted dont go more than 3mm into the motor. If they are to long they could damage the windings in the motor.

Received all my stuff today, so I am starting to install everything into the buggy. Just to verify that this is correct, all I have to do to install the UBEC is the solder the end leads with the leads of the MM into the deans plugs... is this correct? Then I just turn off the internal BEC from the MM via computer. Is this right?

I have heard you have to clip some red wire... there are two red wires that I see; 1 for the deans plug and the other to plug into the receiver. If I do have to cut a wire, how far down the wire should you cut it. I just want to get everything right form the start.

Thanks

One other question:
Does anybody know of a way to stick the esc to the chassis? Of course there is Velcro and double sided tape, etc. But I found a place near the center of the chassis, where it will just be sitting on the aluminum part of the chassis. So, the chassis can actually act as a huge heatsink. But I have found anything that conducts heat, yet is sticky.

Any ideas is appreciated. Thanks again.

the internal bec is diabled by unpluging the lil red wire that goes to the rx, u can get a knife and u will see on the black thing that holds all the wires in u can bend up the tab and take out the wire

thats how u disable it

Oh, so it is a lot easier than I thought. I just take out the red wire from the plug that goes into the rx. Now do I solder the ends of the UBEC to the ends of the MM also? And then these four wires to the deans plug?

Thanks E-MAXX!!

It would be great if I can get all the soldering done tonight. :)

and yes, just solder them to the power wires, and then onto the deans plug, so the red ubec wire is with the red power wire all on the same dean

np

I have now soldered everything except for the motor wires to the esc wires. The esc wires are color coordinated, but all the wires on the 9xl are blue. How do I know which wires go with each other?

Thanks

with BL it does not matter. Soder them all up then plug it all in. If it goes forward everything is wired correctly if it goes in reverse just swich the wire conections once and you will be set.

yup, if it runs in reverse, just swap any 2 wires