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mugen mbx5-truggy.

hello all,

i have the mugen seiki mbx5t coming towards me.

i hope to convert it to brushless with mike cronin's help and offcourse the great people of this forum.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/moogenite/MugenSeiki/photo#5071503195678467762"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/moogenite/RmGZSVesZrI/AAAAAAAAAA0/ImmYgiu4_I0/s144/mugen%20seiki%20mbx5t%20standard%20edition%20grp%2 0cubics.bmp.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/moogenite/MugenSeiki/photo#5071503199973435074"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/moogenite/RmGZSlesZsI/AAAAAAAAAA8/se5JViszizU/s144/mugen%20seiki%20mbx5t%20standard%20edition.bmp.jpg " /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/moogenite/MugenSeiki/photo#5071503187088533154"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/image/moogenite/RmGZR1esZqI/AAAAAAAAAAs/Fabw7vs7mxg/s144/mugen%20seiki%20mbx5t%20standard%20edition%20cente r%20diff.bmp.jpg" /></a>

i hope i could get it to be similar to brian's hyper 8 qua battery layout and motor mount.

take care, moogenite:p

The members of this forum love the mbx5-t, so we'll be looking forward to the conversion... good luck!!

now that i didnt know, i tought i was almost the only one here to like :004: mugen:004: .
who here has a mugen?

I am not so sure that very many people have one, but I can guarantee that every time someone asks "which truggy should I get?", the mbx5-t is always on the list. :027:

welcome aboard moogenite, :D

i believe no one here has the mbx5-truggy, but some people have mugen seiki buggy's, dafni has one, silentmonster, rchippie. maybe some others too.

I don't have the MBX5T, but I have driven one. Believe me, it was a hard decision deciding between the Losi 8ight T and the Mugen. I went with the 8ight because of local support at my LHS. Had all things been equal, I would have gone with the Mugen or given the XT8 more consideration. For me, local support is important and the 8ight turned out to be a heck of a truck. I'm not dissatisfied with it, but the Mugen would have been my first choice and you'll see what I mean when the kit arrives and you open the box.

Daf has got a MBX5 prospec and i had this mbx4 with quite some titanium parts on it;
http://picasaweb.google.com/buikpijn...XGoesBrushless

on only 14 cells she did a good 71 km/h

i looked at jollyjumper's losi and i tought this: not for me!
it's nice, but you can get a standard mugen for a lot less and its just as good or even better.
also its more of a point and shoot driving truck where as you have to baby the losi out of the corners.:031:
not a fan of that, i like to push cars hard.
always been a mugen fan since i know of them, but they where all nitro.

so now that the steel spur/pinion issue is out of the way i tought why not do the mugen seiki truggy.

i believe there were ways to overcome the problem but they didnt appeal to me.

monster mike said he like the single batt side motor alot more then dual batts and top mount motor, what are you guys' toughts about this?

i reconn i'll have to mod this:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/moogenite/MugenSeiki/photo#5071550577757677282"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/moogenite/RmHEYVesZuI/AAAAAAAAABU/k-RUqQxlmeo/s144/mugen%20seiki%20mbx5t%20standard%20edition%20servo %20mount.bmp.jpg" /></a>

it will be in the way, right?:002:

does this sound right:

Differential Ratio: 4.6 mugen truggy diffs
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 14
Total Voltage: 14.8 4s lipo
Motor KV: 2200 neu 1515 1y/f
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.63 grp cubics or grips
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.29 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.11429 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 17.69 inches (449.25mm)
Total Motor Speed: 32560 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 36.08 MPH (57.96km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.44mph/V (3.92kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 2200

Single battery, definitely. The dual battery pack is something that you do when the weight distribution would be screwed up otherwise, or you just have to because of other factors. My 8ight T handles just fine with the single battery pack.

When I got my 8ight T, price was also a factor. I'm sort of the electric junkie at my LHS and I do know, somewhat, what I am doing; so when something new comes out he asks me about them or gives me one to test. Things like motors, batteries, and escs. I also get calls from the shop when someone comes in with a question that they can't answer. The shop is nitro oriented, but they are coming along. Anyway, I get good prices on the stuff that I buy and got the 8ight T for a price that I just couldn't say no to. That and the local support made it a no brainer for me.

Believe me, I was no fan of the 8ight buggy, but the truck handles like a whole different animal. I, too, am a point and shoot driver. I don't drive well enough to drive any other way; and the 8ight has been good to me.

thing is, i might get forced to run ni-mh's if i go to a club.:mad:1

i'd also like to run hardcased lipo's instead of those heatshrinked ones ( pretty much all the packs but the trakpowers and orions)

so mounting 12/14 ni-mh's on one side seems a really stupid thing to do, doesnt it?
as motor weight is around 400 grams at max.
it'd be 450 grams off balance.:026:

any input?

Don't forget to factor weight distribution as well as balance. What I mean is; if the batteries, even though they are heavier, are closer to the truck centerline, it can be perfectly balanced with a lighter motor that is mounted further out to the side. If that made any sense. And don't discount the weight of the servo, ESC, and receiver.

IMO, batteries on one side won't make a huge difference unless you want it absolutely perfectly balanced. I'm running 14 NiMH cells on one side on my Revo and you couldn't tell by jumping it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

Daf has got a MBX5 prospec and i had this mbx4 with quite some titanium parts on it;
http://picasaweb.google.com/buikpijn...XGoesBrushless

on only 14 cells she did a good 71 km/h

Rene i miss that buggy .

still dont like mounting 2 6/7 cells packs on one side.:002:

and i really like those tree piece motor mounts.:004:

but, look here once, http://picasaweb.google.com/pics.jak...07506228483874

i wonder if the motor would fit inbetween the mount and the rear brace?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/moogenite/MugenSeiki/photo#5071770870925256498"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/moogenite/RmKMvFesZzI/AAAAAAAAACg/w9WHBaNLPoE/s144/mugen%20seiki%20mbx5t%20standard%20edition%20rear% 20brace.bmp.jpg" /></a>

too high c of g; if you want a racer; put the motor to one side and the lipo's to the other.

What do these clubs think of the a123 cells? or are they to stubborn to see they don't burn like lipo's?

this one is for all mugenite's:

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony1034

Here are some build tips for guys putting together a MBX5T (or buggy)

The biggest tip would be prepping the diff cups and double-gasketing them. Using like 3 different grit sandpapers (I use emery cloth) you want to sand the cups until they’re smooth as glass. I use 320 grit, then 800 grit and finally 1500 grit. Place the paper on a perfectly smooth table and hold the cup on the paper. Swirl it around in a figure 8 pattern. The idea is to get the cup perfectly smooth and flat. When you go up to 800 grit, you’ll quickly see the plastic get very shiny smooth. If you didn’t go long enough on the 320 grit, you’ll clearly see it. I then do a quick run with the 1500 grit and they’re dead straight. What this does is ensures the cup won’t leak against the ring gear or spur gear. Most people blame the leaky Mugen diffs on the o-rings, but 95% are at the cup (just take two cups and face them together and see the light in between them as you rotate them face to face). Remember, the cups are not machined, they're molded. Then double up the gaskets (Part # C0257). I use my screws 2mm longer than the manual and tighten up. They’ll NEVER leak from the cup (Tip comes from Chad Bradley).

I also have thicker 5mm (S5) o-rings for the out drives. These are tighter than the stockers. The real key is to use grease on them (the thicker S5 o-rings or the stock S5 o-rings) and in the slot on the outdrive shaft. Of course, do NOT use the small S3 o-rings.

I use the stock Mugen brake linkages so I put a slight z-bend in the upper rod to get it fit right. You won't be able to easily adjust the rear brake bias with the z-bend, but remove the small 2x10mm screw and twisting it is very easy. I usually get it set right and then adjust the front in or out. I know most guys love the Kyosho linkages. If you’ve had the Kyosho, you may like it and want to fit them on the Mugen. The Mugen uses fuel tubing where the Kyosho has those little springs. I’d like to change mine over to try the springs, but don’t have a Kyosho to see how it goes. Maybe someone else that switches can post pics.

The kit should also have shims to get the ring & pinion mesh set. They go outside the 8x16 bearings on each side and just add pressure to get the ring gear closer or further away from the pinion. They are 14mm x 16mm by .1mm thick. On the buggy, I always used two on the diff cup side to push the ring gear away from the pinion. But I've heard that the new 46/10T ring & pinion on the MBX5T doesn't need them. Regardless of what anyone else uses, always check the backlash on your car.

The rest of the car goes together like butter. New shocks are SWEET!

Best regards,

Tony P.

This post has been edited by tony1034 on Aug 18 2006, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony1034

OK, so let's put this shock end issue to rest. I just measured the shock bodies, shafts and springs from my X5T shocks and my old MBX5 shocks. I also measured the shock end hole depth.

DATA ....LOL

Shock Rod End Hole Depth - 11.15mm

MBX5 Front Shock Body - 42.33mm
MBX5 Front Shock Shaft - 52.63mm
difference - 10.30mm
Rod end to top of shock body height: -0.85mm
Shock Spring - @70mm

MBX5 Rear Shock Body - 54.06mm
MBX5 Rear Shock Shaft - 64.71mm
difference - 10.65mm
Rod end to top of shock body height: -0.50mm
Shock Spring - @90mm

MBX5R/T Front Shock Body - 47.33mm
MBX5R/T Front Shock Shaft - 59.63mm
difference - 12.30mm
Rod end to top of shock body height: +1.15mm
Shock Spring - @75mm

MBX5R/T Rear Shock Body - 59.05mm
MBX5R/T Rear Shock Shaft - 71.65mm
difference - 12.60mm
Rod end to top of shock body height: +1.45mm
Shock Spring - @100mm

So.....If you screw the rod ends on all the way on the old MBX5 shocks the piston, locknut and shock shaft are below the end of the shock body by a very small amount. The piston would be very noticable down in the body and if you looked at it from the side, you would not see the nut or shock shaft.

But on the MBX5R/T shocks, the piston would be noticably below the end of the shock body, the top of the nut would be about flush and the tip of the shock shaft would be above by a very small amount (1.15mm in the front and 1.45mm in the rear). You might just barely see the top of the nut looking at it from the side. So obviously I did not get my shock rod ends on all the way because my pistons are flush with the top of the bodies and the nut and shaft completely poke out and compress the bladder. I will have to thread each rod end on several more turns to get them correct.

In looking at the old shock shafts and the new ones, the way the threads are cut into the shaft is different. On the old MBX5 shocks the threads are cut all the way, nice and deep until they end. But on the new shafts, the threads are nice and deep at the tip, but then gradually taper off as they go up the shaft. This makes the shafts much stronger and less prone to breaking. +1 for Mugen. BUT...it will also make tightening up them rod ends a tough son of a beech them last few threads...LOL :brickwall

Everybody that didn't get the ends on all the way like me, happy busting out the pliers and twisting the skin off your fingers ....HAHAHA

Best regards,

Tony P.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony1034

Servo-saver issues with blowing servos:

Some guys have been having issues with the servo-saver locking up on the MBX5T and MBX5R (use same servo-saver). Before assembling the servo-saver with the spring, make sure the upper plastic piece slides up and down the tube smoothly. The fit is a bit snug on this new tube/plastic. I polished my servo-saver tube and then use a dry lubricant (Dow 557 from mcmaster.com). You can also use some graphite. Don't use any lubricants that contain oil such as WD-40 as dust will adhere to it and bind it up. Then make sure that the servo-saver works. It should cam over if you try to turn the wheels and hold the servo link. Finally, make sure you set your EPA (both left and right) with the arms level. I set mine for maximum and then back off two clicks on my M8.

Enjoy!

Best regards,

Tony P.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

What do these clubs think of the a123 cells? or are they to stubborn to see they don't burn like lipo's?

well, he'd need like atleast 8 cells for 4s2p and there 70gramms a piece right?

that also a rather heavy pack to put on one side IMO.

Its been awhile since I've been around, but I thought I might show off my second 5t. Whats happening fella's? I 've been racing alot. I love my MOOOGENS I run both buggy and truggy these days. Yeah yeah yeah.... I know its not Electric but it sure is fun.:030:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSCN2467.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSCN2471.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSCN2472.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSCN2474.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...ard/mugen2.jpg

hey there papa,

i see you have bce chassi', how is it?
is it a x5t or xx5t?

:032:

xx5t the longer one. I have not noticed much of a difference over the stocker. I am still making the podium most of the time.

does it require a longer rear cvd?

thinking about the brace's:

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/8ightjumpers/m-modfrontandreardampenedchassisbra.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

will install the holders from start:

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/8ightjumpers/m-modquick-changesuspensionholdersf.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/8ightjumpers/m-modquick-changesuspensionholdersr.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

I thought you said you where not worried about the braces?

these will also flex, like the plastic ones.

most of the pro-spec owners run the plastic braces anyway.

also the prospec braces i now dont have to pay for, i wouldnt of used them anyway.

braces with dampers in them are being used in real racing cars alot.
so it will be sweet to see them in the mugen truggy.
wonder how they will act?

Quote:

Originally Posted by moogenite

Do you have a link to these parts ?.

so we started the build of moogenite truggy,
it looks like we will have to change plan to single left mounted batt, right rear motor.
cuz we cant put the diff exactly in the center of the chassis, there no room for the front brace.
also ( didnt get them yet) but with the special chassis' brace's it looks like the wont be room for a motor like neu 1515 or somehing along those lines, if it where to float over the diff.

aahh ill be watching this thread closely!! Also planning a brush less conversion.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9610/mbx5t0033oo.jpg

its me, sweet x5t pro-spec.:D

i'm thinking of using lehner 2230 motor in my truggy.:p:p:p

Did anyone actually do an MBX5T conversion? How did you do the motor mount?