Fried the great HV110!!!
 

Well, things are not going my way. Here is a close look at my CC Pheonix HV110.

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85032
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85033
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85034
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85035

The great HV110 seems not so great now. What will CC say about this? I was only using 10 A123 cells. Inmagine what would have happened on 12S lipo.

Wow, that's a nice ESC too! Let us know what CC says about that. I assume this was in a truck? Were you using ESC brakes? Just curious why the "flight" ESCs are cheaper than the car ESCs of the same ratings (like the Quarks)...

What were you running that in and with what motor? The HV110 is a nice controller and will handle high voltage, but it's current draw rating isn't that impressive. I believe that it is only rated to 110A continuous and I'll bet that the max current handling isn't much more than that, with this particular controller. The application for which this controller was designed will hit over 100A but the spikes aren't there like they are when used in a truck or car. Even the MM will handle up to 300A spikes, IIRC and so will the Quark.

Were you using motor braking or did you have mechanical brakes?

I was using it in my truck with a Hacker C50-XL or the ION-X motor and 10 A123 cells. The brake was off. I did run the truck 2 days ago for a sort test and it ran fine. Man this is just crazy. My Kontronik Jazz 55-(Something)-32 stopped working, but it lasted longer than the HV110. My Kontronik 40-(Something)-32 only blew the capacitor, but it also lasted longer than the HV110. The BK 3695 cogs like crazy, but it will go back in the truck. I was hoping to see my truck go around 80MPH or so. I can only beg CC to sponsor me with one of those SHV controller. That way I can wire my DeWalt packs in series and see what 72 volts fells like. LOL.

AAngel,

You mentioned IIRC. Is that a ESC or something else?

IIRC = If I Remember Correctly

Well, I always thought it was If I Recall Correctly, but same difference lol.

As for the ESC, the Plane controllers have a very low surge/spike rating. They can handle decent continuous counts, but they can't handle much more than that. That is also why they can't have brakes. Brakes cause the voltage to spike and that is what usually blows stuff (not the high voltage itself).

So, this is why car ESC's are so robust compared to boat and plane controllers - they must be able to hold up under braking.

I'm sure Castle will warranty it.

I tought 100 amps would be enough for the truck.

100A is fine for a continuous current rating, but when hitting the throttle hard from a standstill, doing wheelies, etc. cause current spikes that can hit over 200A for a short time. That is just my understanding from talking to the guys at Castle and stuff. Unfortunately, we haven't been able to get any accurate graphs from anyone, because the eagletree (which is what most people have, if they have one at all) only goes up to around 120A. The Quark Monster Pro, for example, is rated at up to 300A spikes and that's a 1/10 scale controller.

What did you have your "current limiting" setting at? I have mine on the Option 2 (sensitive), though now I might go the the Option 1 (very sensitive).

The owners manual says that the warranty doesn't cover over current. So he might be on his own here.

You can get the sensor that will got up to 300amps and 50v for the Eagle Tree but it's $130.

That kind of explains it, but I don't think I was actually using all 100AMPs. I mean 100AMPs is alot of AMPs.

No, I think they're saying the pulsed amperage was what caused the issue.

Yeah, that's what I'm saying anyway. If you were running a 1/8 scale anything, I'll bet that you hit over 100A quite a few times in surges.

Ok. Now I have a Schulze 40.160, do you guys think I'll have any problems like the one I had with the HV110?

A Schulze? Maybe, maybe not. I don't own a Schulze, but many here have reported the Schulze letting the smoke out for no apparent reason. Did you just go and order that? That's a mighty expensive controller just for running in a truck.

So far i haven't heard about a smoked 40.160 yet, they seem to be bombproof, from what i've heard.

Only point is they are the size of spain. :p

But it is one heck of a controller!

I noticed that the most important procedures one should take with any controller to insure a safe and smooth operation, is to make the wires super short( I even thought about connecting the controller directly to the motor with no wires at all!!!) Hard wiring without the usage of connectors between the motor and esc. When using a large pinion gear, it will drain loads of amps out of the controller and will greatly heat the wires and motor. You should use high quality connectors with a great heat resistance capability( the deans are good, but the 6mm sized schulze connectors or BK's 5.5mm ones are much better). Some controllers come with 13-14GA wires, for extra safety( espicially in Monster Trucks and buggies), replace them with 12GA wires( Dean's Noodle wires, for example). A cooling fan on the motor and controller is a good topping, but shorting down the wires is more ipmortant.
I believe most of you know this, but thought about refreshing your minds.
I made those precautions on my 18.149 schulze controller and it did not break a sweat under hard acceleration. Just DON'T use brakes a lot.

AAngel,

I bought the controller about a year or so ago. My point exactly. It is expensive and I also heard that Schulze is not the best with customer service.

Serum,

The size is not a big issue on the truck. I'm just afraid the controller might go up in smoke and I hate to loose a controller like that.


Captain,

The wires on the CC HV110 are 10GA and they are shorter than all my other controller's wires. I also haven't had the chance to buy the 5.5 or 6mm connectors, but I'll be changing all the connectors. The HV110 ran fine 3 days ago when I did a short test, but yesterday as soon as I gave a little throttle it started smoking. The pinion in the truck right now is 22T and the spur is 51T and the diffs are 3.3 from the buggy. The truck also weighs over 10lbs so I might be overloading things a bit.

Mine was on sensitive as well. Also, I had it in soft start to protect fragile gear boxes, the cut off at 24 volts.

I tried the 6mm connectors and they are nice and wide, but short. They also have a lot of contact area, but they are kind of thin. I tried out the 5.5mm conncectors and they have a more substantial feel to them. I'm using the 5.5mm connectors now.

I have mine on the softstart and still broke gears and driveshafts. I also have it on softcut. I don't have an Eagle Tree to make more accurate assumptions so my settings are just guesses. I thought that throttling down rather then cutting power off wouldn't create as high a spike when the ESC went back to normal. This tread is making me think I need to invest in an Eagle Tree system.

I was browsing through Neu Motor's website and saw that they mention 140+burst out of the HV110. The yalso show a 180AMP controller with 300AMP bursts.

I'll give this bad boy a try. Lets hope it doesn't smoke.

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85050
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85051
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85052

That Schulze is huge, but it's purdy. I think I'd make room to be able to run that thing.

Everything is hooked up and tomorrow I'll try it out. I did a quick test and everything is running, but tomorrow I will see how good this thing is.

From what I've heard, those Schulze ESCs run just about anything and run smooth.... until they burst into flames. I wonder if it would help if they added heatsinks?

How is the programming on those ESCs? I doubt they are as programmable as the MM - I assume they have about as many options as a Quark?

Man I hope this thing doesn't burn. Programming is very easy through some DIP switches and they have something called ISP (Intelligent Self Program) something like that. I also think you can program it using your radio like most ESC.

Well, I wish you the best of luck. Some people run theirs forever with no issues, so as long as you aren't pushing the V or A ratings, I think you should be fine.

All I want is to get the truck to go 80 or maybe 100MPH. After that I'll cool down a bit.

lol, is that all? Just don't forget a fire extinguisher in your field kit. ;)

Why do you want to go that fast with a truck? The time and expense of getting the suspension right isn't worth it. Of course, I have also had those things that I just HAD to do.

Well, the reason why I'm doing this, is the fact that last year's RC Car Action speed event a Nitro HPI Savage was the fastest monster truck. That's the only reason. I have decided to try the 12S lipos. I just hope everything holds up and nothing blows. Here are some pictures:

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85053
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85054
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85055
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85056

Your truck will surely look ugly at such speed. 60 is already too much.

Captain,

Were you familiar with a show called Speed and Beauty? What drives people to go faster? Why spend $200K to $1mil+ on exotic cars? Have you ever seen one of those RC boats go over 100MPH? I just want to make this truck as fast as possible. I think you might also be working on some speed RC yourself. LOL. It is just pushing the limits and having fun. Usually when I make a video of my RC vehicles I have my daughter and my twin little bors' with me. They like it. They are happy. You should try it. Plus my daughter is Autistic and hyper, so anything I can do to keep her busy is great.

Regards.