Vid:Neu 1515 2.5d on 5s in e-maxx
 

I'd finally got some lipo's (TrueRc 8000mah packs, a 3s2p and a 2s2p used in series) and I tried them in my e-maxx with a neu 1515 2.5d.
Gearing is 51/20 (20t pinion is the only gearing option I have at the moment, because the motor hits the transmission with smaller pinions and I don't have an 18t or a bigger spur yet). It's using stock diff gears and is locked in 2nd (12.499:1 final drive ratio).
After this run the motor was 32 degrees C (90f) and crept up to 35C (95f) after sitting for a minute then went back down. The Quark 125 wasn't really any warmer than the motor (I don't think that means much though since I haven't done the internal heat sink mod). The batteries were barely warm. I had used it for a few minutes about 5 minutes before this vid though.
So far I'm happy with these batteries and motor, but I'm not a huge fan of the quark (this is my 3rd one). Yes it does cog a bit at the start.

The video is 2 minutes 20 and sorry the quality isn't that good.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4

It looks like it is quite fast. It surprises me that the Quark coggs like that though. Mine is about as smooth as can be with the 1512 2d geared tall in a buggy. But a buggy probably weighs a little less than the Maxx, but still shouldn't do that. :032:

I'm not sure if the quark is ok or not, it's been acting kind of funny sometimes. Last week at racing I used this motor and gearing, but on 12 and 14 cells. It seemed to be pretty quick, but when I used the 14 cell pack, I gave it almost full throttle from a stand still just before the race started and it barely even spun the tires, usually it would spin out or wheel stand. It didn't cog, it was just slow, but it gradually got faster during the race, so I don't know why that happened.
Anyway I put it in first gear for a little while (when I was using it on 5s at the park) and it didn't seem to cog. It never cogged with the feigao on 12 or 14 cells, but that was never geared higher than 15.6:1.

What do you have the battery type set to? I'm not really sure what the "manual" lipo setting really does for start power. I wonder if it would work better if you set it to Lipo high, and then go back in and set it for whatever manual cutoff you want. You'd think the manual setting would override the previous setting, but not sure judging by what the manual says:

A little puzzling to me...

If running on NiMH cells, you get better puch by using the NiMH High setting. Also, what torque setting do you have it set to?

I don't know what I have it set to, I'll have to play around with that a bit today.

Looks fast. How much do you think your maxx weighs?

If you watch my video also watch the 2nd video (*edit* 3rd now) in the related list, it's just called e-maxx and is 2 minutes 50. It's not brushless, but it does some good jumps.

I don't really know how much it weighs and I don't have any half accurate scales to check, but I don't think it's light.

nice video dude... :)

I can use 18T pinion without any problems and 16T after bit motor fin dremelling. no chance for 14T

need to get me some High cap lipos

It's a bit too fast for racing right now so I want to get an 18t pinion, but even if it was in stock it wouldn't be here in time for racing on Friday.
A 16t might give me ok speed for racing, but I'd prefer not to have to grind the fins. I might have to go looking for a 65t spur to use with the 20t pinion, which should give me ~35mph, which is a good speed for my track, but I'm not sure if that will fit the motor plate. I will have to modify the motor plate, but even then...
OR... I could use a 24t pinion and use it in first gear, but I don't have one, and they're not in stock.
OR... I could get some 1/8 diffs and lower the ratio that way, but that will be expensive.
All of those options should give me ok speed for racing (mid to high 30's), but at the moment I don't have parts for any of them :031:

65T from Ofna monster pirate fits afer some dremmel care (but no holes drilling) but no chance to use 20T pinion withou motor plate mod

Awesome spd and torque (and temps)! I really want a Neu!:036: Damn you castle!!!!

If it's too fast, why don't you try 4S. I don't think that you'd ever get a 2.5d geared for racing running on 5S.

If you're loosing the get up and go off of the line, you might want to open up the cap and check your caps to see if they are puffed.

Yeah I've heard that you have to mod the spur a bit to get it to fit and I was looking at the motor mount and guestimating where the motor will sit with the big spur and 20t pinion and it will be hanging off the side by about 6-7mm :002:

Yeah I really like this motor so far, though I'll have to see what it's like on 5s for racing.
I bought it to put in a 1/8th truggy which isn't finished yet so I thought I'd try it in the e-maxx (I wasn't expecting it to work very well though) on 12 and 14 cells for racing (a few days before I got the lipo's) and with a 20t pinion it seemed to have better acceleration in some parts of the track than my 7xl on the same batteries and with a 13t pinion :027:(though getting off the line was a little bit iffy sometimes and it the quark did something weird once) except every thing was cooler with the neu. The motor was about 15-20 degrees C (59-68F) cooler than the 7xl :004:


I don't have any 4s packs. My 14 cell nimhs should be around what 4s pack is I think , but I want it a bit faster than that. I chose the 2.5d over the 1y, because I wanted to use 5s for racing. With the 20t pinion and 14 cells some of the other e-maxx's gain 2 metres or so on me by the end of the straight (Lehner 1940 7t on 12 cells and hackers, oh and one guy uses 1 trackpower pack and 1 IB4200 6 cell pack:eek: )
I want mid to high 30's for racing (we have a decent size straight) and mid to high 40's for bashing, but I'll have to see how it goes.

I was thinking there might be something wrong with the caps, but it doesn't seem to do it all the time:032:

I was mucking around with it on 3s yesterday. It's actually pretty quick, probably a little bit faster than a stock 12 cell e-maxx (not quite as fast as one on 14 cells though I think), but a bit quicker off the line, and it didn't cog at all with slow driving or full throttle take offs. I changed some sensitivity settings on my spektrum though, so I'll have to see if that was part of it once I try 5s again.
It was going full speed on 3s, not accelerating and it locked up and nearly did a front flip. I pretty sure it's the rear diff, but if it is what I think it is then I might not have to replace anything, since it's happened before.

Looks great! Can't wait to get my Supermaxx finished! I've picked up another truck to put my NEU1515 into until my maxx gets completed. That's how much I can't wait! LOL!

When is it arriving pro?:dft003: :)

Later this week. Looking a motor mounts, pinions, etc from Mike right now. Hoping I can make my batteries fit or I'll have to go LiPo or make some "split" packs to keep the chassis balanced properly. We'll see.

This is why my diff locked.

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/6818/diff4sx6.jpg

Even though I put loctite on that screw and did it up as tight as I could without feeling like something was going to strip, it still worked it's way loose for the second time. Then it starts machining the housing, until it jams and then locks the drive train, causing my car lo front flip...almost.
Luckily it locked while at full speed with only 3s and not 5s :026:, that would have front flipped.

OUCH!!! Thats a bummer! Sorry to see that!

Just a reminder. .....The screw & threaded hole must be clean (spray with carb cleaner or flush with lacquer thinner & Pipe cleaner) otherwise the loctite won't hold. I've helped engine builders (1:1 scale) solve issues this way. Oil, grease, dirt and other contaminants keep loctite from doing its job properly.

That being said........

I have a new never used set of Mirror polished great assembly 7075 diff housings, FLM diff cup/ring gear and stock diff internals available for sale if your interested. I was intending on putting these in my Supermaxx but now have a set of UE 6-spider diffs going in so I need to order UE housings.

Yeah, I used contact cleaner on the threads before.
Pretty much everything is ok though, except for the pinion. I think it might have been getting a bit worn and then some aluminum sworf went through it. I had a good look at the crown gear and compared it to a new one, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.

I love the endless wheelies that thing pulls. Nice!

yeah.. it's a nice a light vehicle.. :) very nice

Contact cleaner is worthless for cleaning; it leaves a film..

You need brake cleaner, aceton, motorcleaner or thinner to make it clean.

I don't know, this stuff says "No Residue" and it evaporates straight away leaving the area dry.

I use brake parts cleaner for everything i know it won't eat, same ingredients and half the price of motor cleaner

Patrik, got any body off shots? I am going to the same setup and would like to see how yours is setup

I can take more pics if you want a different angle. I didn't know how to make the picture smaller than 1mb though.
I've got the rcmonster heatsink for the quark with a novak fan underneath it. The 3s2p pack is the purple one and the yellow is 2s2p (smaller pack on motor side).

I just needed to see if you were using a fan or not, I got a revo gorilla chassis and wanted to see how you had the esc setup. Thank you

If your using the e-maxx transmission it's easy to mount using the rcmonster heatsink, but if you've got a slipperential it could be a bit harder.
With my 7xl on 14 cells and a 13t pinion, a 3" fan couldn't stop the quark from thermalling at racing. It seems to like the neu a bit better though, but I haven't gotten to race it yet on 5s.
I'd didn't get to got to racing last night, because it had been raining a lot at the track, and I don't know when I'll be able to go again, because I think that was going to be the last race before they stop for 2 months or so over winter. Yes things are backwards down here.

With you living in Australia, It seems like if its running good for you, it should run good for me

It's starting to get colder than when I was using the 7xl, but not cold cold. But I still think it would run cooler than with the 7xl on the same day.

Patrick, I am curious, you aren't hearing this on the neo-con news corps. here in Canada/USA... how is the land there is Australia? Is it still super dry there? I was reading that you just got a little rain last week?

Yes, in Perth we had some decent rain yesterday, enough to prevent me from going to racing. I doesn't rain a lot though and further in land it does get very dry (Perth is on the coast)

So do the toilets actually vortex the opposite direction as the northern hemisphere? :005:

I've never really noticed a vortex at all.
If your partly revering to that simpson's episode I laugh every time I see that, mostly because it's so wrong.