? about the warrior 9920
 

I was looking at my 9920 the other day & have a ?. I noticed the motor wires are split between both power boards, half the wire goes to each board. My ? is if i need to replace or (extend) them, can i use a seperate wire to each board & then connect them at the plug ?. It would be a lot eaiser too connect two wires than it would be to split the wire in my opinion.

Yes, if they will physically fit where they need to go...

Yeah, that's what some original warriors have too.

Here; i have one too;
http://picasaweb.google.com/buikpijn...ightweightMaxx

Rene those are nice shock towers on your gmaxx :005: . Is it alright to use two 14g wires or do i have to use two 12g wires ?. The 14g would be a little eaiser to fit on the bottom board.

I would use 2 12G wires personally, just in case one of the power boards needs to have a full current connection. Unless you can find a way to bridge both terminals at the ESC...

Brian the way it is know each board only gets half of the 12g wire know.

Oh, I thought you meant there was 2 12G wires. Doh! Then, yes, dual 14G wires going to one Deans is fine - actually probably better...

Yeah, the shocktowers look sexy on her.. :)

I recently purchased a BK 9920 ESC from Mike does anyone know if there's anyway to disable the UBEC as I don't see the black jumper. Also since all wires to motor are all blue does it matter what wire goes to where on the motor why do we need all 3? Do all BL motors have 3 wires?
Can they be connected to any of the poles of the motor or is there any way we can check which goes where?

The black jumper is a little further back than the red one. Its more to the center as well. Also, the wires do and don't matter. Just be be sure to keep the pairs together (kinda obvious, but you'd be surprised...) and you'll be fine. Yes, all BL motors have 3 poles, and it doesn't matter in which order you put the wires from the motor to the ESC. If you motor runs backwards after you set it up, simply remove the red jumper after its programmed and when the batter is plugged in. It will beep and you will have just reversed the ESC. You can also switch any two motor wires, but that can make a good wiring job look bad in my opinion...

The 9920 is a solid control.

I look at the end with the capacitors using a flashlight I really don't see this black jumper only the red one. Should I remove some of the black wrap to expose more of the circuit board? I see the circuit board and the heat sink but still no jumper I know the jumper should look like the red one but in black but no sign of it. Could this be a newer model where you can't disable the UBEC?

The black jumper is to the left of the red jumper just back a bit more. With all my BKs I did in fact cut the shrink wrap just enough to get the jumper out.

When I got mine I ended up pulling all the heat shrink off to find it, so I got some extra shrink wrap and now I tear it off every few weeks to blow off the control with air.

since its on topic and you have you're solution, i don't mind thread jacking/and asking your opinion. i'm debating which esc for my maxx and i keep looking at the mamba, but i really wan't something that can handle higher voltage for now and maybe upgrades later. trying to keep costs down, this esc stands out to me. it handles 6cell lipo right? i know it doesn't have all the tuning like the mamba and mgm, but thats fine with me as long as it will run well with which ever motor i choose. how do you like it?

Tashpop, I have two bk warrier 9920's one is 4 years old and they both work great I love them, but there are two things you wont like, the nue motors don't work and you can't run 6s only 5s.

thats ok, i was really planning on a setup running 5s2p a123's any way. i really want to try these new batteries out and this project seems fit.

I have a few 7018 and a couple of 9920 and I have used 6S with no problem at all. Barbara from BK said they go by 1.4V for nicd/nimh and 6S is exactly 25.2V fully charged. I have 2 3695 and Barbara said they are programmed with 1.2V instead of the 1.4 and you can use up to 10S lipos with it.

well if you need to lighten your inventory, i'll give you my address and even pay shipping lol.............

I had no idea the 9920 would handle 6s, now I will have to try it. It would be sweet not to need the mgm.

I can't get rid of my things right now LOL. Mike does have the 9920 at a great price though.

Yes the 9920 is a steal, I paid twice that for mine. Now I got my eye on that 120.36, plus I love how easy they are to set up. I think setting up the mgm is gonna give me a headache. Anyway thanks for the info lutach.

Today I ran my TC3 truggy with the 7018 with a Lehner Basic 5300 and it kept up with the touring cars. I also ran my Ofna MBX with the 3695 and Hacker C50-13L and they were speechless LOL. I set the ESCs for forward/brake only and the guys were amazed how good the brakes worked.

I just got my buggy back & i forgot something. Im using a 9920, +UBEC & 9xl for know. When programing the 9920 do i leave the black bec jumper on or take it off, & do i leave the red wire in the reciver or take it out. ?. Thank's

I use an rx pack on all my vehicles, but the UBEC works the same way. I took the black jumper out. I left the red wire in.

Never mind i found the info. thank's

Is there any reason that I could not remove the red wire from the rec plug instead of the black jumper. Only reson is the esc is not mine and I want to test it on 6s. Do not want to remove the shrink cause that would be obvious.

Will it run well on 6s? I would like to try my 15l feigao on 6s in my emaxx. It is light and 2wd and the batts can handle 80+ amps continuous. Will it be ok? And should I program it for forward brake only, or can I leave reverse? Sorry for the questios, just don't want to smoke it:diablo:

It will run 6S. I never tried removing the red wire, but you can let us know what happens LOL.

Figured it would be like taking the red wire out of the mm to disable the bec.

IMO, I think they provide the jumper to keep people from having to muck with the cable. Removing the red wire (and insulating it) does the same thing. The point is to keep the BEC power from getting to the receiver and to the servos, and both jumper and wire removal do that.

I agree with BrianG. I also heard that you can a UBEC or RX pack and it will help the ESC's BEC. I remembered one occasion with my first 7018. It was cogging a lot with 12 NiCd, but I installed the rx pack and it stopped cogging. A few months later the light turned on my head LOL and I took the black jumper out, but it was working fine before with just the rx pack.

I have bad news . I was programing my 9920 & it took but know it wont do anything. I started with a half charged battery & checked all my connections & nothing. I even took out the LVC & still nothing. I guess i have to buy a new ESC

I would fiddle with it a bit more. If it programs, then it should work. Try simplifying the setup as much as possible to eliminate other causes. I would use a 2s or 3s pack and use the internal BEC just to see if the ESC lives, and then go from there.

GOOD news it works. I disconcected the koolflight UBEC & used the stock one & it works on 4s . So does that mean the ubec i just bought went bye bye ?.

UPDATE
It just stopped working again.

I even tried a different reciver & still nothing. Owell i guess it's to buy another ESC.

after more testing it will work with a reciver pack, but not with a ubec or the sbec

Do you have any servos hooked up when you program it? I ask this because if there is an issue with a servo and it is pulling too much current for the UBEC to handle, the UBEC may be causing the receiver to malfunction. A receiver pack has more current capability. If that's not it, try a capacitor on the UBEC output to help eliminate any noise. I assume you disable the built-in BEC when using an external BEC or Rx pack?

yes i pulled the black bec jumper. Yes i have the steering servo hooked up. Maybe i popped the UBEC. I dont have any caps to put on it. If i have to run a reciver pack it's no big deal. Im going to buy a new controller any way.

I ran my converted X1cr last night, & it got real hot & thermaled. My ? is sinice there are no moving parts on it, what is everyone's opinion on removing the heatshrink to help it get some air to help cool it ?. Also i noticed when it gets hot just before thermal when brake is applied it goes in to reverse even thou the reverse is disabled.