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Neu motor meanings?
Okay so what do all of these things mean?
1.5y/f 1.5y/s 2y/f etc etc And what are the differences between the 1515's and the 1512's? Why would choose any of these numbers over the other? I'm looking to upgrade from my 540c 8xl in a 1/8th buggy conversion. Thanks! |
1.5y/f = 1.5 turn wye wind finned
1.5y/s = 1.5 turn wye wind smooth 2.5d/f = 2.5 turn delta wind finned etc... If you are looking to upgrade from an 8XL, you could be looking at the 1515 2.5d or the 1512 3d. I just mention these because they are close to the same kv rating as the 8XL. I got a 1512 1.5Y for my truggy and the 1512 is definitely not lacking in power and it runs much cooler than the Feigao. |
Wonderful! I appreciate that a bunch.
So, what's the difference between a delta and a wye wind? Once again, why would one choose one over the other. Also, the difference between the 1515 and the 1512? I'd try to do more research on my own without bothering you guys, but my internet is being really screwy lately. Thanks again! -Jeff |
OK, the 1515 is .3" longer than the 1512. The 1515 is also heavier, by a bit. Enough to make a difference anyway. The 1515 also makes more torque. From my experience, the 1512 is plenty of motor, but if your project weighs over 10lbs or so, I'd probably take a closer look at the 1515. I just got the 1512 for my truggy, but it's an 8ight and it's pretty light at just under 10lbs in race form with the battery.
The Wye wind is going to be a bit more efficient, but negligibly so. Genearally speaking, a delta wound motor will put out 1.7 times the number of rpms per volt when compared to a like Wye wound motor. Conversely, the Wye wind will put out more torque. When it comes down to it, just choose the one that hits the kv rating that you want. They're all good. I went with the 1.5Y (1900kv) because I am replacing a 9XL and want 8XL performance. I could just as easily have gone with the 2.5d (2000kv), but it is a race setup and I'm taking every advantage that I can get. I also went with the smaller 1512 because it is lighter, draws less current than a 1515 of similar kv, and it has plenty of power for my application. If weight and runtime, not to mention price, are not a consideration, I'd go for either the 1515 1Y (2200kv) or 2.5d (1700kv), depending on the battery configuration that you want to run primarily. The 1Y for 4S and the 2.5d for 4S or 5S lipo. Many have run the 1Y on 5S, but I think it's too much. |
Gotchya. Sounds great.
So to clarify, a 1512/2y might compare to like a feigao 10xl in KV and torque? I'm running on 12 NiMH cells with a Mamba Max and I'm happy with the performance right now. Would the 1512/2y probably be a bit slow for me? Seeing as how it's more effecient and higher torque than the delta, would gearing up be an option to acheive similar (or maybe even BETTER) performance than my current 8xl? Thanks a bunch for your knowledge. I really appreciate it. -Jeff |
You are not going to even be able to get close to the performance of the 8XL with the 1512 2Y, unless you move to a higher voltage setup. I recently got in a 1.5Y that was mislabeled. I believe it was actually a 2Y, judging from the performance. On 4S, I ran a 16/44 gearing and it was a bit slower than a 9XL on 4S running 14/46 gearing. If you are running the 8XL and want to stay close to that, I'd get either the 1.5Y or the 3D. You could even go with the 2.5d at a 2000kv rating. I feel that the 2Y is strictly for mild running or a high voltage (over 21v) setup.
Any Neu would be better than any Feigao, just because it will run cooler. It just may not be as fast, depending on what you get. |
Gotchya. Thanks again.
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AAngel - you are a real asset here...thanks for clearing this all up!
VERY helpful... DM |
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Welcome to the forums Jeff!
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Man Jeff, that's a tough call. As you know, I'm about to bite the same bullet and order a Neu as well. I have decided that it's gonna be a 1515 1y/f for my 8T. As far as your buggy goes, it looked pretty close on top speed the couple of times I saw it run. This would indicate to me that using the same gearing you would want a similar kv motor to the 8XL. If AAngel is correct and there is minimal difference in torque between the 12's and 15's, the 1512 2.5/f would seem the obvious choice; a little hotter than the 8XL but more efficient. Of coarse, the 12 is a little less costly which is nice too. However, I would be worried that it would'nt be quite enough to run with the faster guys at our track. I think I'd rather get the 1515 1y and gear down, dial down and/or use more trigger control. Then again, I've been tryin to run with guys in S.A. that usually out drive me when we're heads up, nitro to nitro anyway. Hopefully this helps more than confusses. Like I said, Tough call! Too bad Neu does'nt make a 1900/kv 15 motor........................:027:
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1900 - 2000Kv would be about perfect! I agonized about that before I bought my 1515/1Y too!
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Brian, are you really asking me "why?" What's wrong with you? You should know better by now. I'm just parroting what Neu told me. Any idiot can do that. LOL.
But...yeah, it has to do with the resistance. The rest of the stuff went over my head. The Neu motors are nice, all of them. I can't wait to get mine back from Neu so that I can run it with my Quark. |
lol, don't you want to know the "why"?
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I would like to thank AAngel for the explanations too, it has helped ALOT in understanding the Neu motors, not that I could ever afford one but hey.....
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Do I really NEED to know why? I'm satisfied knowing that it just is.
OK, if you know why, I'd appreciate an explanation. |
Actually I don't - that's why I asked you. :)
The only thing I can figure is that a Y config will pull less current than a D of the same turn count, and less current means less currrent losses, which means greater efficiency. I was hoping you had a little more info on it. :) |
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I had those same thoughts........... |
I chose a 1515/2.5d/f because its big, similar in kv to a 9XL and with the heat coming, It needs a heatsink
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Brian, what can I say, you are expecting too much from me.
Now, getting serious, from what I remember, you hit the nail on the head. I do plan on doing some reading up on electric motors so that I can get a better grasp of what's going on inside of them. I'm just afraid that if I learn too much, I might start thinking that I can make a Nue better than it is. |
Neu...better....? :005:
J/K Brian, do you know if a 1515/2.5D will power a truck with about equal power as a 8XL? if geared properly. I really would like to get one, I am just trying to get one that will be good on ~16.5, and wicked on 18.5v at a later time. |
I'm seriously thinking about getting a 1512 motor for my next project.
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zpb, are you really asking that question? LOL
The although I don't have a 1515, the 2.5d should at least equal to power of the 8XL, give or take a couple hunderd kv. I've heard nothing but good things about the 2.5d. Just going by kv values and my experiences with brushless in general, I'd go with the 2.5d just to have the flexibility of 4S or 5S lipo. I think the 1Y is too hot for extended running on 5S. If 4S (or its equivalent) is what you are sticking with and performance is on your mind, yo could opt for the 1Y, which I would think is on par with 7XL performance. Is the 8XL what you are running now? |
:005: I'm just not sure sometimes, after all, I don't have a Neu.
Yeah, I have nothing but good of the 2.5d as well, but same with the 1Y. I definitely want to move up to ~5s equivalent. I would prefer something like 6s, but I will see if I can make the Quark work properly at that voltage, it is beyond me why it shouldn't or can't? :032: That's with a 1515/3D on 6s, I would have Mike special order it. I don't know yet, I might just upgrade my batts and motor at the same time so I can run 6s. |
I personally think the 1512 will surpass an 8XL performance-wise and heat-wise. Even if there is a couple hundred kv difference, you can always gear up to compensate (to a point of course).
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Yeah? I was thinking either a 1515/2.5d, or a 1512/2Y, both nearly identical Kv. If I see a good deal somewhere on a Neu, I won't pass it up (2.5D, or 2Y)
That is of course, if I can get the Quark to run at ~6s. Once I get my Quark case machined, with a high voltage Neu, there is one powerful, and very cool setup. |
Most people that I have heard of running the Quark on 6S say that it is quirky on a fully charged 6S pack, but after picking it up off of the ground and running it for a minute, it's OK. Perhaps the 6S A123 rig will work without problems. If I had the cells laying around, I think I'd have to try it.
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Alternatively, if you have a charger with a programmable cc/cv threshold, you could try setting it to something like 4v/cell...
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What exactly does it do? I wonder if the extra cap bank will help at all? Just a thought.
I do yes, remember my BK PRECISION PS? I can do any charging profile, up to 20 volts, and 10A. If I WERE to get LiPo's, I would only get TrakPower's, as they have a rep of being very good quality (balanced, and don't fire under normal use). But I am kinda waiting for Altair Nano to release to market cells for sale, currently they only sell them as the battery modules. They look very promising. |
What does what do?
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Sorry, what does the Quark do (act funny) with 6s lipo.
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