New here and needed some help.
 

First off I'd like to say hi to all the members here. I am having trouble with some BL decisions.

1. I am having trouble deciding on wither I should go through with converting a Revo to BL with the G-maxx tranny or just get the G2 carbon chassis and G-maxx tranny thne build up.

2. I have been through nearly all the post in this BBS and heard of several motor and controller combos but can't pick which to go with. 9L, 10L, 7XL, XL3100, XL2800, or XL2400 with 9920 controller. I wanna race with this setup mostly. I will run mostly 40s with bowties or Response tires. I wanna get at least 10-15 min. of runtime on 12-14 gp3300 cells.

I figured that the XL/9920 setups would run me $450 minimum and the 9L, 10L, or 7XL /9920 setups would run between $280-$350 minimum. the cash is no problem involving the BL systems seeing that I don't plan to do this all at once. The big concern for me is which chassis to put it al on.


Thanks for any help. :L:

i run the xl3100 with the 9920. i would recommend the xl2800 for 12-14 cells. from what i here the 3100 will run a little hot on 14 cells. i wouldnt know since i only run 12. im my opinion 12 is plenty if not to much with the xl3100 the 2800 is plenty. the lehners are worth the extra money since they are more efficient and better made as well as more powerful.

Thanks.

How many cells are you using?

If it is 14 cells I would reccomend the XL2800 (for speed/power) or for longer runtimes you might want to consider the XL2400.

You could also conider the 9L with 14 cells, as you said you have the money for Lehners and you being a racer need all the performance possible. However, the 10L would be my choice on 16 cells.

The 7XL is for 16, 18 cells but I doubt runtime would be as good as other motors mentioned.

I am getting really excited about going BL but I still can't decide on which chassis to use Revo or G2 Carbon.

I remember the first BL Maxx I saw. It was done by a guy on the old RCMT boards with the stock chassis.

For runtime(and racing) the xl2400 on 14 cells would ofer excellent performance and runtime(the best runtime of the motors mentioned). The decision on e-revo vs g-maxx chassis is a tough one. The g-maxx chassis is an excellent platform for racing (I have a few that I race quite successfully), but upgrading can get quite costly. If you don't drive it like it's stolen, you can get away with mostly stock parts and keep things light and relatively inexpensive, or, you could drop a couple $k and go all out (like I have admittedly done!). The revo is also an excellent platform, and can be made into a brushless performer with out a great deal of difficulty. I am working on offering some conversions for the revo in the near future, as I really enjoy driving my Revo (although my brushless g-maxx is by far my favorite r/c vehicle). I can only imagine that a brushless revo would soon be among my favorites as well.

Well, I'll wait for your conversions to come out then go from there.

Thanks for the brushless help.

personally i think the g-maxx would be a better racer because of the lower cg and the extend chassis kit as well as the motor mount, but if i went revo i would get the cf revo chassis.

I have got a g-maxx chassis, and the way you can built up your truck with it is superclean, and as squee says; The cg is ultimate low.

If you want to get it done fast, get the gmaxx chassis with e-maxx parts. (like the g-maxx singlespeed conversion)

the revos suspension set up right is second to none.

That CF Revo chassis was looking tempting. I was going back over things and decided to go with the Maxx after all.

E-maxx $330
Integy Suspension and Bulkheads $290+/-
Gmaxx Tranny $70+/-
Slipper from Strobe or Robinson Racing
Steel tranny gears
MIP CVDs for front and rear $106+/-
UE center Ti CVDs $60+/-
After that I will the G2 Maxx CF chassis if there isn't a G3 chassis by then.

I have no idea what to do with the diffs but I can't see myself spending $300+/- on 7.5 diffs. A little help finding an alternative please.

Thanks for all the help so far. I do remember some guy on the old RCMT forums used the stock chassis with his BL setup but he dropped the batts somehow I just can't remember how he did it.

HiAmplidude, possibly the first wicked brushless dude in the maxx territory created a very low cost brushless maxx back in his day with only aluminum braces, cvd's, and an aevox setup.

The FLM or Maximizer diff cups inside aluminum cases work quite well when built properly. You could also choose the FLM combo bulks(and you wouldn't need the diff cups). I have all the mentioned items(appears to be a nice lway to start). You probably wouldn't need to bother with buying the e-maxx, though. Opt for the g-maxx chassis from the start. Most of the parts listed will replace almost the whole truck! I could assemble a parts list for you with or without the emaxx to start with (build as you go).

I know mike sells the integy suspension and tons of integy stuff. But integy is made out of the wierdest metal I have ever seen. It bends and breaks with ease and its a huge mistake IMO. Get a used racer x and some GA bulks for about $350 shipped if not less. You can even get a used widetrac suspensions for around $125 shipped or less I have the wide trac for sale if you want it pm me. You can get used UE cvds for around 80-90 shipped too. I would go UE from the start. The ride might be a boat anchor at first with all the aluminum but you will just launch those Light race maxxs out of the way. Get the strobe slipper over the RR. Why don't you just build the whole emaxx from the ground up. It would probably be cheaper and you will get to know every part of you truck.

Oh yea and UE diffs 6 spyders can be found for about 135-200 used. Just got hit it right.

you can make bulletproof diffs with aluminum case, aluminum diff cup in the front with robinson racing ring and pinion, and in the rear i would get a spool with robinson racing ring and pinion. also i agree it would be better to just build it from the ground up or just selling what you replace. like a new evx is like 75 dollars, ect. also i wouldnt go with the integy or the racer x i would go with just a true trac racing setup for the rear to illiminate the rear turnbuckles.

RC-Monster Mike, do ya think you can make that list for me without the E-Maxx? If I can get away with spending less I will do it except when it comes to buying things used.

I had a bad experience with a NTC3 and a OFNA Hyper 7 Pro that were used but in "good condition". Worst $500 I ever spent but I fixed them up and got $610 for them which allowed me to get my first Revo.

Sure I can. Please send me an e-mail detailing what kind of truck you are looking for and I will gladly reply with several parts options as well as prices and recommendations based on your needs.
Also, let me respond to some of the posts in this thread:
The Integy stuff isn't pure crap. It is molded aluminum that cost around half of what the UE suspension costs. I have a couple of them on my trucks that have been trouble free for over a year. If you smash into things at a rapid rate of speed, they will of course bend, but I race every week and have yet to get a failure. I do agree, however, that the UE is much higher quality and much stronger as well, but it is also a bit pricey(not saying it isn't worth the money-I own just about every UE part for the maxx trucks- but I would be bankrupt if all my trucks were outfitted with these parts!). The FLM suspension is nearly bulletproof as well, and is considerably less expensive. If you want the very best, go UE without question. If you want nice, but not quite $THAT$ nice, Integy or FLM are simply other options. Ga bulks are bulletproof, but they also weigh a ton and are expensive. If this is what you want, then it is an excellent product, but if you want a light weight racer, there are many other options to consider.

sorry didn't know you wanted all new. Yea forget just about anything UE since that is costly new.

you can always get gorillamaxx suspension. in my opinion its the nicest. IMHO i think that the ue is overrated and to expensive.

Opinions are like..... everyone has one. Actually I totaly forgot about the g-maxx suspension. From what I hear its pretty good.

Actually I am assuming that Integy bends easily because they might use a lower grade of Aluminum like the 2030 or some 2000 series. Or that their designs are not as sturdy, but doesn't mean they are crap. Actually its not that bad.
Also people don't seem to understand sometimes that a crash will equal broken and bent parts regardless because it depends how and how fast it hit.

Funny thing in RC seems to be that a few OPINIONS can sometimes turn into a fact or a big overall view on parts and etc. Like a few people thought all GPM Parts are cast and assumed that all GPM = crap but that is totally untrue.

I like UE parts, and I know they are expensive, but with anything in life, you get what you pay for usually, not always but usually.
I like their parts so I combined UE with Gorilla on my Super G-Maxx (Supermaxx parts with Gorilla parts).

The G3 suspension is good. Especially after they replaced the upper A-Arms. Mine takes a beating when it rolls and etc and it still is fine. The original Upper A-Arms weren't too great because it bent too easily but the revised ones solved that problem.

I believe that integy's components are die cast aswell, not milled. This reduces strength, but is cheaper to do - as shown in the prices. However, the integy bulks are very light and unless you are a serious basher they should hold up quite well. Personally I use GA 6061-T6 bulks - just so I know I've got the extra strength if I need it...

two opposites.. Integy bulks and the GA bulks (opposite in weight) a nicely balance between both are the FLM's. with their warrantee you can't go wrong.

I believe the Integy is 6061 aluminum, but it is cast instead of cnc machined.

so are the integy about the same as stock weight? give or take and ounce?

The Integy Pro 3 is a bit heavier than stock (few ounces), but the handling improvement is worth the weight. the racer x is only an ounce or so heavier than stock, with better fit and finish. Of course this level of quality comes with a price.

what about the integy bulks? i think if i get aluminum suspension is would be gorillamaxx anyway.

The Integy bulks are a little under 2oz heavier than the stock plastic-the lightest aluminum bulks to my knowledge.

Ever weighted the new FLM bulks? they are not too heavy either i guess, and they are machined instead of molded.

from FLM's website:

stock bulkheads - 23 grams
FLM bulkheads - 55 grams

The FLM bulks are a little heavier than the Integy, BUT A LOT STRONGER. My personal favorites currently.

@ maxxdude;

Those are the old types. The new types are a whole different design.