Fine Designs XLT-1
 

hello. i've been lurking the past few months... so... hello!

anyway... i've been working on a BL revo for a while now, and i recently got an XLT-1 as a trade (got rid of my 2.5R nitro and got a Hardcore skid out of the deal). i know you guys hate FD... but anyway.

what are the specs on this motor? kV? Resistance? anything else i need to know? i'd appreciate it.

i have it... might as well check it out, right? :na:

I would call cris first thing tuesday and find out first hand about the motor, I know its a pressed end bell type and could really use mikes heat sink clamp.

i definitely intend on getting that heatsink. it looks incredible!

chris is the guy at fine design, i suppose?

yup, the owner is chris.

IIRC, the XLT1 is a pretty high kv motor. You could call him, but from what I've experienced, he's pretty tight lipped about the specs of his special "XLT" motors. On his website, he rates them by horsepower, unless he's changed it.

The FD xlt motors are almosty certainly Feigao "xl" motors in reality. I doubt Chris will tell you what wind any individual motor actually is, though.

And by the way - we don't Hate Chris Fine or Fine Design here. We aren't haters. Chris is a knowledgeable guy and has his strengths and weaknesses like everyone else. FD is the competition, though. Some like FD and some don't. I would expect to have a bias towards RC-Monster on these particular forums - considering it is the RC-Monster forums. :)

Hey Mike,

I have personal experience for both companies and have not had any product related problems with either. FD did take much longer than RCM to process my order, and longer to ship too. I was not in a rush, but 2.5 weeks to ship an "in stock" item was a bit much. I then gave RCM a try and was suprised to see my item here in 2 days. I have not purchased a motor or controller from either, just support items, so I have no experience on returns/warranties, etc. I would like to say thanks to Mike for providing many of the needed items for conversions in one place and shipping so quickly. FD still strikes me as a FE boat supplier and that is where their knowledge and expertise is. They sell some really nice boat hulls and hardware. I can see where FD is competitive with RCM for some products, but they seem to cater to the RTR brushless customer, where RCM is more for the DIY guy! Keep up the good work Mike.

I had big issues with FD but blame myself for not doing more research before purchasing. I'm done hating them. However, it would be a waste of your time to call and ask the kv of an xlt motor.

Not to bad mouth "da man", as I have had nothing but the most excellent service here with you Mike. But I must say, Chris gets points for motor support! He replaced a 8XL that died after a few hours use, and he is even working on warranty issues with a Lehner that I bought here!

Maybe the some problems that people had with FD are vaild, maybe some are not. Maybe Chris has been able to devote more time to his rc business lately and that can make a world of difference. I have my own business and something always goes wrong when we are busy and it may not get as much attention as the same problem would if I was not so busy.

I would agree with mike on this one. This is the RC-Monster forums - opinions are a dime a dozen - lets keep this thread along the lines of friendly and not point out others shortcomings.....

You're ugly. Im fat. And the next person who posts smells.

Is there any scientific way to figure out the number of turn in a motor? Im thinking supply it with a set voltage that isnt going to drop by more than a % or so, and then use an rpm meter & a little basic maths to figure out the kv rating.... simple, but requires lots of equipment.

You're fat? You look skinny in those videos!?!?!?!

I dont believe I've ever recorded myself on video, but the shadow I cast sometimes tend to make me appear tall & thin; in reality Im 5'10" and about 200ish pounds.... but Im working on it, slowly....

lincpimp... you smell...

can't we hook the motor leads up to a reader of sorts? you know what i'm talking about... it reads voltage... ohms... current. doesn't seem that far fetched.

anyone know what kind of run times i can expect with 10,000mah and 14.8V? gearing is locked second gear, close ratio, and 16/(36-40 haven't decided yet).

when the time comes to actually pick and choose my motor (give it till late this winter... maybe spring), what should i look for? i don't want crazy speed, i want LONG ass run times. i want to be able to run this truck for like an hour. mind you... i don't want to be moving like a slug, so keep that in mind, obviously.

i'll prolly be sticking with the 4S 5,000mah x2 that i'm running. so... yeah.




also... back on topic, is the XLT-1 a good match for my revo? it has a steel roll cage, so it's rather heavy. i'm running a quark 125B. i haven't gotten it working yet... waiting for some parts to get fabbed, but i'd like to know if this motor is going to work out for me. the guy that gave it to me said it would probably be over kill. comments?

Yea I am also having trouble with Fine design.
Ordered a few cheap pinion gears from them to see how they were.
They were shipped about 1.5 weeks ago so should be here soon.

I have sent 3 e amails to them over the last week asking about the Lehner 1930/6 motors and if they had any in stock.
Still haven't heard any replys back from them. Makes you a bit weary of ordering anything from them if they can't reply to an e amil in a week.

I've never done this and it's not my idea... but I think you can use a slave motor to spin the rotor (XLT) and measure the voltage across a coil, to somehow figure the kv.

Also, I read you can measure the rpm while it's running using a scope. (or use an actual tachometer) With the voltage into the motor and the rpm measurement, you can calc the kv.

If you can figure the kv.. that would tell you what it is.

The first method you listed will work using any of the 10th scale/540 motor dyno's. The problem is finding one with or producing a coupler with 5mm shaft capability on one side. I never did either but came up with a better solution. Sold the XLT4(with disclaimer) on e-bay and forked out the coin for Neu 1515/1y; Problem solved!

Couldn't you do the opposite and spin the motor while measuring the output voltage? Attach a voltmeter between two leads on the motor with a diode in series and adjust the speed of the motor until the voltmeter reads 1 volt. That should give you the unloaded kV, right?

If it was a normal brushed DC motor I would have said yes, but BL motors having three phases and all makes me wonder... that said, its beyond my knowledge base so buggered if I know anyway:neutral:- sounds like an idea though.

I like the 'sell it by buy something better' plan personally :diablo:

You just need to choose any two motor leads and measure the pulses between them. The diode only lets through the positive pulses instead of letting the AC go to the meter. A capacitor would help to smooth the pulses and get better readings. I suppose you could just read the AC voltage produced until you get a 2V peak-to-peak reading.

Or, you could create a simple three-phase bridge rectifier, add a filter cap, and measure the DC voltage...

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/th..._rectifier.gif

Will do Brian, as soon as MIT accepts my applicatiion and I graduate in thermonuclear abstract quantum applied theoretical geometric engineering, with a focus in electrical diagram analysis!

Is it Brian or Brain?!

lol, that was a far cry from anything in the MIT class! 6 diodes and a cap isn't all that complex. Just follow the wires...

Actually, you use something like that circuit every day; the alternator in your car! :smile:

And it's Brian... :slap: :lol:

Luv ya Brian, could not help myself. Saw someone else make the Name mistake and get scolded by ya!

You are much more knowledgeabe than I on the circuit stuff. I can use a voltmeter and have a basic understanding of DC. And that is only from 15years in an auto body shop, where a shorted wire causes the body man's head to explode! I always got stuck under the dash fixing the wiring, airbags, stereo, etc.

I'm not an expert like Griffin and a couple others, but know enough to get by for what I need. Understanding the basics, designing some simple circuits, troubleshooting and repairing things like amps is about all I do now. Used to be a bench tech, then worked part time at a stereo shop repairing amps and installing stereos/alarms/remote starts/etc. More of a hobby now, but it sure helps to know HOW things work. :)

How things work? Its all smoke inside stuff! When you charge stuff up it just pushes the smoke back to the correct side. Even I know this!!!!

OK, you are NEVER to touch anything of mine that is electronic! :smile:

...and if you let the smoke out, things don't work anymore! :lol:

HAHA

I have you old emoil batteries remember!

Have not managed to get any smoke out of them yet, but I am still trying. I was using them when Griffin's modded MM let out some smoke, but they are fine.

lol, oh yeah, I remember now. But technically, those cells aren't mine anymore, so you are more than welcome to send smoke signals whenever you want. :smile:

Could you not just use a small aero prop and an eagltree with BL rpm sensor? spin it up and divide the RPM by the number of volts to get KV? then you know what wind it is and can look the rest of the info up on the feiagio website.

I have an eagletree, BL rpm sensor, 5mm prop adaptor and small props if some one wants to sent me a motor to test, but I'm sure someone in the USA also has the same equipment and that would reduce the postage costs at each end. unless someone in the UK has the motor?

I'm in contact with a chap at the factory trying to get the specs for all...

So did anyone get the specs yet? I figured I'd buy one to test it out on my FLM Maxx. If the XLT1 has enough power to push an LST2 around it should be plenty for an Emaxx. Mine weighs in at 11.2 lbs.

I also noticed that it had 4mm female bullet connectors on it already. But aren't male connectors the norm on motors?

All the pre-terminated motors I have bought have had various sized males, likewise females on the ESCs that came with connectors.

IIRC, the only motors I've seen with the male bullets on the motors are the Castle motors. This actually makes sense since you generally put the more insulated connectors on the end where the power comes from to protect against shorts if they come unhooked for whatever reason.

I'm guessing RPMs are at 5s which seems to be collerated to the magazine which said 4s was 50k...

Power (W) RPM V Assume 5s KV
XLT4 1500 40000 21 1,904.76
XLT1 1500 60000 21 2,857.14
XLT3 1500 65000 21 3,095.24