Ideas for mounting A123 packs in Emaxx??
 

Ok, I know a bunch of you guys here run A123 packs in your Emaxx's. I am looking for suggestions and help on how to mount them in my truck.

I have a stock chassis, and plan on running two 5s packs in parallel. My DeWalt pack is still in the mail, so I haven't had a chance to play around with it myself.

For those who run A123 packs, can you please post pics of your setups, or throw some suggestions at me!

Thanks!!

you won't have enough room. they're just barely wider than a 6 cell pack, and just about as long. i'd look at the FLM extended chassis - you'll have lots of room. they can be held down with velcro, zip ties, duct tape... (you get the idea) :tongue:

BTW: Where can you get those DeWalt packs?

search ebay for 'dewalt 36v battery'

This is how I run 4S2P.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC06447.jpg
I have ran 6S2P but I think the stock motor plate on your setup might get in the way of that.

Thanks sikeston for the pic. I'm guessing you never take your batts out to recharge them? Still that give me a good idea of the size of the cells. I'm really diggin' the motor setup you have!

Yea ClodMaxx, I knew they weren't gonna fit nicely, I just wanted to see the way others have it rigged up in their stock chassis's. I can't afford anymore upgrades at the moment (ie flm chassis). I just bought a second emaxx, and am soon gonna have more R/C's than batteries to run them. I'd like to get a few more of these DeWalt packs if I can get them to fit nicely in my stock chassis.

Clod, do you run a flm chassis?

HERE is my old MAXX truck, it's the first pics of a maxx in the gallery, but it is an FLM chassis, doesn't help you much.

Do you already have two 5s packs made?

Yea if I had an flm chassis, I don't think i would have any problems figuring out a way to mount them. I don't think I will have any problems in the stock chassis either, as I'm a pretty resourceful guy, just as most of you guys are here too :) But it doesn't hurt see what other people have done either eh?

No I don't have the packs made up yet, but I plan to run 5s2p in some way, shape or form. Could be one pack, could be two packs, depending on they way they fit best in my Emaxx.

As of right now I have created lots of room on my chassis to work with. I have the stock motor mount still, but have both battery trays free with gmaxx straps, as well as the whole back of the chassis, from the slipper all the way to the rear shock tower is empty space.

Oh yes, and thanks for the pics..... it looks like you've had a nasty experience with an A123 pack!

I suspected you were Canadian... sure enough, I look over and you live in Edmonton, LOL.

Yes, my own stupid fault, I charge the 7.2 volt part of the pack at 18v!! yah, I know. Long story short, I made some 'well done' A123 pack for supper, or wait, desert.

NO FIRE THOUGH!!! Pretty impressive if you ask me. :whistle:

LOL Well thats always good to know!!

i did for a short while, but at the time i was planning to make a complete UE SuperMaxx truck, and a UE Lightning chassis kinda fell in my lap... so i sold the FLM chassis. the battery tray part of both chassis are the same dimensions - they are meant to hold 8 sxs ni-mh cells.

sikeston34m

What motor controller are you using with your truck there? How is that outrunner working for you?

How is that outrunner working for you?

^^^^^please enlighten us?

Hi Guys,

I'm using the Quark 80 amp ESC.

This setup was working really well for me. I had probably a dozen runs on it when I switched it over to 6S2P A123. I found the limits of the motor and the transmission on the first run.

It was VERY powerful. It was throwing rooster tails of gravel farther than I've seen so far, so I took it out to a paved road for some top speed runs. The ballooning stock tires were the limiting factor. I could control it up to around 55mph and I think it would have done more.

I drove it back in front of my house and was driving it pretty hard when it had a "come apart" LOL

The motor stator came loose from the bearing holder, twisting the windings and tearing wires loose. At the same time, I stripped the square center out of the drive dog in the transmission. Bummer.

Since then, I have put a new motor/transmission in it and put it back on 4S2P A123. This is a dependable setup. It will ride wheelies in 1st or 2nd gear and tops out around 40mph. I get about 20 minutes runtime per charge.

I'm in the process of taking all I've learned from my experiments and putting them into an E Revo. This truck will be driven by an Outrunner also.
In this conversion, The motor will replace the transmission. The motor shaft will be a modified transmission output shaft. Custom motor mount for sure. I'm also adding a cooling fan and a lower guard that will protect the motor from impacts and debris.

The motor will be a lower kv for sure. I'm thinking in the 300 to 400kv range. This motor will be alot bigger and capable of carrying higher voltage. I can offset the lower kv by jacking up the voltage until I get the top end I desire.

If cogging is a problem on startup, I have some shorter/lighter Phaltline tires I can try or I will go with RCM's 4.3:1 truggy gears in the diffs.

One goal with this project will be to eliminate these weak parts that just can't take the punishment. I will probably run this on 6 to 8 Series A123. I should have some extra room on the chassis to accomidate this.

The motor I have in mind (2000 watts) won't be available for a few more weeks. But as soon as I acquire one and get started, I will post a thread here and show you guys the progress.

That sounds pretty cool... is this new motor you want to use the Scorpion outrunners by any chance?

I am thinking about converting my FLM truck to a direct drive (no tranny) to diff setup ran on 5s2p A123. The 440Kv looks to be a good candidate for this.

I know it kind of messy but this is how I did my 5s set up so it would be nice and balanced. Has worked great so far. This is an old photo. I am now running brushless and with a123 it is a dream. I working on setting up an 20 amp charger so I can be up and running in 10 minutes from dead.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8207/aut0020ty9.jpg



Ok I couldn't take it...I had to use my video camera again and my truck is all nasty but here is the 5s2p with brushless.

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/6099/aut0037fu3.jpg

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/321/aut0034no7.jpg

hey, thats alot of battery on a stock chassis, good job. please when you finish up the 20amp charger post some info. right now my setup is charging very slow because my charger thinks the pack is almost full because of voltage differences between lipo and a123's. i'm planning on just getting a lipo dapter then my charger will let me use 7amps. 20 amps sounds better to me though and if its cheaper, thats even better.

Yes Zero, The one of the new 4025 Scorpion Outrunners is what I have my eyes on. Before I actually place the order, I still need to decide which one. These are the ones that have the new endbell bearing to keep things in line.

Alot of quality engineering there I think.

For you guys looking at cheap ways to charge A123's, one the 4 Series setup ONLY, go to Walmart and get one of those "cheap" digital Auto chargers. They have a charge voltage cutoff of 14.5 volts. This is perfect for 4 Series A123.

Then if you're charge 4S1P, set it for 10 amps. If you're charging 4S2P, you can set it for 20 amps. Either way, you will be charged and ready to go again in right at 11 minutes! Check into it.

man that sucks because i'm running 5s and i'm thinking about just into 6 or 7 as future upgrades.

Hey I got the charging solution for you if you can run 6s packs (A123 that is)

You can make in like 10 min a charger for 10 bucks that will charge a 3s pack at 10 amps and be done chargeing in under 15 min. Here is how.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...711#post123711

Of course if you build 2 of these then charge 2 packs at a time. That give you a 6s1p 2300 MAH pack with a charge time of 15 min :)

It's working great. But Note it only works with 3s A123 packs!!!!!!!!!

Highflier

Thanks magudaman for those pics! I think I will be assembling my packs the same way!! I like how you didn't mod your chassis at all, and that the packs kinda tilt inward. Reminds me of the new E-maxx battery trays lol! Lower cg right? haha

How did you connect the 'hump' cell on the top?? With a battery bar?

I actually used the pre-welded tabs from the dewalt pack. You just need to strategically cut them with a dremel so you can keep as many pre spot welded tabs as possible. Worked well.