wut next to get?
 

ok i got an HV_maxx for my stock emaxx...
give me pointers on wut to get next?

g-maxx chassis. PM supermaxx4190 he has one for sale.

oh yeah forgot to tell you guys i can get anything expensive right now
so like cheap stuff right now

that i can get at LHS
I'm thinking bout integy parts

I have some GA bulks and metal skid forsale if you want them.

i sent you a PM

no im coo thnx tho
I only can get stuff from LHS

Get the idlers from Mike.

I guess you already invested in quality batts.

i would look into some decent shocks. like hotbodies.

he cant order anything from the internet

supermaxx shocks are the best shocks for emaxx tmaxx

will the f and r diffs houses warp from the heat?
advisable to get Integy diff houses?
and yeah Dafni i got 7cell gp3300 =)

i dunno about warping from heat but they can warp and you will strip out the ring gear. You are probably going to need some UE diffs too.

yea if your rich..... robinson racing ring and pinion cfront and rear, spool in the rear, and a aluminum cup up front with integy or equivilent housings would be just fine
@braaap1189: a local hobby shop should have some shocks. that being if you have a local hobby shop.

better to throw out the old servos? and get new ones?
im thinking
Hitec 645MG High Torque for the steering(39$$)
and
Hitec 625MH HIgh Speed for the shifting(39$$)

wut do you guys think?
people been saying they're pretty strong for 40 $ servos

You could also look at the blue bird 630/631 and 620/621 MG servos. They are 33$ and about 20$ respectively. The '0' ones are the torque ones, and the '1' ones are the speed. I'm planning on getting the 630MG (190oz/in) for steering once I get a new servo saver

wuts a good servo saver??
will the proline ones fit? the stock chassis?
fit the G2 chassis too?
cuz i might get that chassis soon

cleaning my Maxx right now...
discovered that i cracked my rear Bulks!!!
will the integy aluminum bulks be ok?
r they good?
the super duty type II

I've got the Integy Super Duty bulks and they're great. I know they probably weight a little more than the stock ones or even some of the other aluminum ones, but to me the strength is worth it. The bulks take a lot of punishment and I didn't want to have a weak link there.

for now im jus gon get the rear ones
since thats the only thing i cracked

the proline servo saver is pretty good. i think you have to make a little modification to the stock chassis. i would recommend just getting a heavy duty kimbrough servo saver and a bluebird 630mg. thats exactly what i have and im very happy with it.

wuts the advantages of CVD over the stock telescoping ones that came with the maxx?

They wont get twisted into Brezels. (But they can snap in a bad crash)

Depending on your driving style, wheels, and BL, the stockers might last quite a bit. But proper shafts is a good investment when going BL.

my center shafts are about ti get twisted
and my rear ones are already twisted

wuts the cheapest CVD for the Maxx???
and also for the center oens

Don't go the cheap route man you will just end up spending twice as much before you get some nice parts. Go UE off the start. I know you can't order over the internet, so i guess you are stuck with the lower quality stuff for now. MIP is second to UE so get MIP cvds. When I first started upgrading my maxx I broke arms and bulks left and right well to say the least i upgraded with integy and had some problems. Try your best to go for the good parts from the start and you won't regret it. I don't know how much you bash or beat on your truck but for me daily driving with integy always had disasters. Integy is super duty bulkheads are actually weaker than the stock traxxas shock towers or atleast thats what I found out when i broke the shock tower mounts on the bulk and not the shock tower.

this one for the CVD right?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDXN7&P=ML

how bout these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHLK6&P=7
how bout the center ones?

both will work get the top ones though.

heres the center kit http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDXN8&P=ML

how bout the center shafts for the E-maxx?
the ones for the 2.5maxx i cant use cuz they not the same lenght

hey braaaap
but when i went to the towerhobbies site it says on the comment thing
"COMMENTS: The CVD takes the place of the original half shafts.
This Will Not Work with the E-Maxx because it uses 6mm output
shafts and the T-Maxx uses 5mm output shafts."

MIP doesn't make a shiny set for the center of the e-maxx.. Weird by true..

My telescope shafts are starting twist
especially the center ones and the rear ones
Serum does MIP make CVD for the center of E-maxx?

Yes, they do make the center CVD's, but they are just black instead of shiny..

can you give me the item#??
cuz i have to buy em at LHS not online

that is the MIP1495

Thanks alot Serum

hey ive been hearing alot that MIP CVD pins are popping out
are these true??

That is a rather common thing with cvd's you can easely prevent that, creating a little notch on the pin that goes thru the cvd (in the middle, were the setscrew touches the pin) and you can screw in an extra screw. i use two types of screws to keep it in one piece. a cup type (due to the deforming of the material it keeps itself in one possition (among with some threadlock/loctite) and one with a flat head, on the other side. it works like a charm. With the notch in the pin they won't come out with one screw though..

the notch your talking bout is like the one in motor shafts right???

or

will the RD logic CVDs for the 2.5maxx be better?

Those rd-logics are very good too.. (great value/price) i read negative things about them on other forums, but Mike is very enthusiastic about them. (he uses his trucks allmost 24/7 :p)

And yes, that is the notch i am talking about.. Don't make it too big, because your pin can snap.

I know people who use their MIP's with great succes as well.

k so better go with MIPs than RDLOgics??
I can get replacement pins right in case i mess up??

Yes, that rebuild kit goes by the name MIP1493