HV Buggy
 

I am running a Novak HV 6.5 in my E-Maxx. It is fast and has plenty of torque.

I have been considering getting a nitro buggy for some time.

Now that I have been reading some of these brushless buggy threads I started wondering if I could buy a buggy roller and move the HV 6.5 to the buggy.

I always wanted my Maxx to be more of a crawler anyway. If I put the Novak in a buggy then I could set the Maxx up more for crawling.

1.Has anyone ever used an HV system in a buggy?

2.Do you think it will work?

I was almost ready to go nitro but I love the ease and silence of electric. Now after reading about brushless buggies that seems like a better idea. :mdr:

1. Yes, it has been done before. Unfortunately I can't give you a referrence off the top of my head, but I am positive you can find one on here.

2. It will work. Heat is the biggest issue. the novak HV systems run very hot, but if you can keep the heat under control, it will work. Most here will suggest a sensorless system... as would I, but if you already have the HV-maxx system, why not?

I just got me a Mugen Prospec MBX5 roller for a song of fleabay. :mdr:

I think I'm going to put a pair of Titans back in my E-Maxx and move the HV 6.5 to the new buggy.

Or do you think I would be happier if I bought a Mamba Max and a new can for the buggy?

check out novaks web sight, the put a hv4.5 in a buggy and got about 50mph on 4s

i say go for it, should be a great setup and you would only be out the cost of a buggy

There won't be a big diff in weight between the EMAXX and a 1/8th buggy so the HVMAXX should work just fine. It seems thermal issues have always plagued the HVMAXX no matter what application. I believe if you disabled the BEC and used a UBEC you may be able to reduce some heat.

I believe Novak has an external capicitor available that should also reduce the HVMAXX's thermal tendencies.

I don't know about that. My Maxx is a tank coming in at over 12 lbs. :oh:

This buggy is a feather weight compared to the Maxx.

Even with a big Li-Po pack it wont weigh 12 lbs.

On another note: Are the RRP pinions that I use on my E-Maxx going to work on the center diff?

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...NewBody023.jpg

these wheels you are using weight a ton.. That would take off 3 lbs with ease..

Probably not. Most buggy center diffs are mod 1 pitch. Your emaxx uses 32 pitch.

The E-Maxx is a Monster Truck, not a racer. Stomper Bully.

That's why I prefer spools in the front and rear. This thing is for Stomping and running over stuff. A true basher.

That's all an E-Maxx is good for if you ask me.

My buggy will be for light weight speed. :mdr:

OK,
I need to clarify as I was referring to a stock emaxx with 4S Lipo ~9+ pounds
If you are running nimh's you'll have one heavy buggy ~10+ pounds.

This may sound like a dumb question but: Is the electric motor/diff mounts for sale in the shop here reversible? Meaning can they be flipped either direction so the motor can be placed on either side of the vehicle.

I'm talking specifically about the one for the Mugen mbx5. I'm sure it's not, but I can't tell which way it should be turned by looking at the picture. :mdr:

Thanks,

No it only goes on one side as the bearing fits in it...

If you want some pics of a converted one LMK - I converted my MBX5 buggy/truggy

PICS of build are here:

http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u180/Arct1k/Mugen/

The mounts can sort of be reversed - the motor can sit in the right rear, or at the left front.

I'm not sure - rotating the mount will mean that bearing supporting the diff would now be on the outside of the mount - i.e. nothing stopping is failling out.

Mile also recessed the motor mount screw slot which you would not have...

I have drawn up a quick pic. All I did was rotate the mount 180*. The view shown is from above. The top one is with the motor mounted at the right rear. The bottom one is flipped 180*, and has the motor at the front left.

But draw the diff in with a bearing on the inside - Then rotate around the diff and the bearing will be on the outside...

I think I need to clarify that picture. The small rectangle is the bearing, and the large black polygon is the diff.

EDIT:
Just to further clarify, I have attached two more pictures. The first is an old one of my Hyper 8 and the motor in the right rear position. The second picture is with the motor mount, motor, and diff rotated as I showed in the previous picture, with the motor in the front left.

The bearing won't be on the outside, the diff, diff mount, motor and motor mount all get moved as one object, like MetalMan showed.
A guy at racing has a Kyosho ST-R truggy and another with a ST-RR, both with Mikes motor mounts. Because we slowly shifted from racing e-maxx to racing truggies most of us are using dual battery setups, so they shifted the motor to the front left to make room for batteries. You might have to put a spacer under the diff and motor mount to keep the spur away from the chassis. Or make a cutout for the spur, like it has at the back. They were using the 50T steel spurs and it might not be an issue with the 46t, I'm not sure.
I'm not sure if you can flip it with all cars. For some annoying reason my TTR ST-1 has a different hole spacing on the chassis between the front mount and the back mount.

This is the ST-RR just after it was finished.
http://www.teamadrenaline.net/e107_f...icture_219.jpg
http://www.teamadrenaline.net/e107_f...icture_220.jpg
http://www.teamadrenaline.net/e107_f...icture_221.jpg
http://www.teamadrenaline.net/e107_f...icture_222.jpg
He was going to try and change that aluminum mounting plate a bit. The reason it sticks out so far at the moment is because his BEC and transponder are under there.

Hey MetalMan, I want to see a real version of that dual motor buggy :yes:

In your dreams :lol:.

If I go with Monster Mike's Mugen mount can I still use the Mugen carbon fiber top plate? :neutral: