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-   -   My basher is out =) (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8224)

BlackedOutREVO 10.20.2007 10:51 PM

My basher is out =)
 
Well, I do have to say, the new E-MAXX isnt 100% like I thought it was going to be, but none the less, I want one

I have been waiting for the re-do for a while now, and finally it is done

So heres the set up, hows it sound?

The new Emaxx
MMM, and heres the hard part, I hear NEU is going to be "the" motor with it, so I think I want that kit, or just like a NEU 1512 something
Then two 2s TrakPower gold packs because I use them in my TC for racing, so buying two more would benefit in all ways

After that, I want to leave it as stock as possible, the bulks are supposed to have something new going on with them coming off of the traxxas fourm, so we will see, and then the diffs we will also see

What do you guys think? And what NEU motor for 4s only, I dont plan to ever go with more voltage

BrianG 10.20.2007 10:56 PM

The 1515 1.5d or 1y, or the 1512 2d would be my choices.

BlackedOutREVO 10.20.2007 10:59 PM

1515 is alot of motor isnt it? Too much for the stock diffs, and less runtime

What would get me in the 40 plus range running well on 4s?

zeropointbug 10.20.2007 11:23 PM

I agree, the 1512/2d on 4s should be great with the stock light weight chassis and everything. With the 1515, you should not have less runtime, runtime is determined by several factors... gearing, finger happy?, weight, etc.

I like how they made all the tranny gears extra wide for extra durability, they should last a while. I also like how they made a BL single motor mount for centered mounting, and a single motor cover to go with it.

BrianG 10.20.2007 11:24 PM

Personally, I'd go with the 1512, but some people want stupid power. :smile: I'm sure it could get into the 40mph range, just plug the 1512 2d into the speed calc and figure out the gearing you'd need.

BlackedOutREVO 10.20.2007 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeropointbug (Post 124086)
I agree, the 1512/2d on 4s should be great with the stock light weight chassis and everything. With the 1515, you should not have less runtime, runtime is determined by several factors... gearing, finger happy?, weight, etc.

I like how they made all the tranny gears extra wide for extra durability, they should last a while. I also like how they made a BL single motor mount for centered mounting, and a single motor cover to go with it.

Yes, I want to stay as plastic as I can, I just want a normal basher, not all FLM, and G-MAXX, I just need a nice, cheaper basher.... Not lots of voltage to push big tires, and all the alu etc

I can get very trigger happy at times when I have nothing better to do then wheelie at speed:mdr:

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG (Post 124087)
Personally, I'd go with the 1512, but some people want stupid power. :smile: I'm sure it could get into the 40mph range, just plug the 1512 2d into the speed calc and figure out the gearing you'd need.

Stupid power is fun, but 300 doller diffs to handle the power isnt lol

I will go do that, and then post it here to see what you guys think

: EDIT, the FDR of the new maxx is different then the old one though isnt it?

skellyo 10.21.2007 11:10 AM

Keep in mind that these new diffs are different than the existing maxx or revo diffs. Only time will tell if you will really need an upgraded diff or not. I imagine if they hold up to twin Velineons at 50mph, they will probably do just fine for most any of us as well.

BlackedOutREVO 10.21.2007 11:40 AM

well i don't know or not yet... But the CRT.5 I think is back in play
right now... A maxx wold be fun though

jhautz 10.21.2007 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO (Post 124089)
: EDIT, the FDR of the new maxx is different then the old one though isn't it?

Yes, the ratio on the new tranny is different than the old one. Don't know what the exact ratio is yet though.

I agree, the 1512/2.5d would be plenty of motor to get you 40+mph on 4s in fairly stock Emaxx. If you start loading it up with a ton of aluminum you might want to go with to the 1515 though.


As far as the CRT.5 goes, I have run mine a few times now and am finally starting to get the suspension tuned in. That little truck absolutely rocks!. I had it out parking lot oval racing on Friday night and nobody could keep up with it. It was cornering better than the the 1/8 buggies and by far out accelerating them and had more top end as well. The first time I showed up with it some folks were laughing at it saying it was "cute". Then I spanked them.:mdr: :na:

I am very impressed with the little truck. Jammin did a great job on it.

BlackedOutREVO 10.21.2007 02:17 PM

Hahahahahaha thats soon funny... The .5 does seem awesome
I really do want one, just I don't know 100% yet as far as everything isn't out yet, and then the price

BlackedOutREVO 10.22.2007 04:59 PM

Well, I think I want the Emaxx, the .5 is sooo cool, but I just dont think it will do what I want it to do in terms of off roading, I need ground clearance, and the Maxx has that, and I just sorta want a big-ish truck again

So, looks like the first MMM stuff out will be the NEU 1515 1Y 2200KV, so it is a 4s motor, and its a 1515, which isnt a issue as I might add alu and all, so im more then fine with the bigger motor, and in its bigger, so it should have more torque, which I hope will make it run cooler further running it on 4s in the Maxx

So, the list (so far) is

New E-Maxx
MMM combo with the wanta-be NEU 1515 1Y
2 TrakPower gold packs

And then I have some 40s series road rage that arent even glued to rims yet (meaning there new) on velocity 6 rims........

And the wants

New off road tires (dont know which ones)
The red tubes
spektrum rx (already have the radio and all that)
new shocks (UE's)
When made, alu bulks (the flm wont work because of the new bearing size) Same with all others

And thats abut all I can think of

suicideneil 10.22.2007 05:29 PM

Correct me if Im wrong, but arent the diff cases the same externally, just different internally to accomodate the different bearings? I checked the part numbers on the exploded views, and the bulks used on both the new Emaxx & the T-maxx3.3 are same, so you will be fine to use any aluminum bulks you like....

BlackedOutREVO 10.22.2007 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 124511)
Correct me if Im wrong, but arent the diff cases the same externally, just different internally to accomodate the different bearings? I checked the part numbers on the exploded views, and the bulks used on both the new Emaxx & the T-maxx3.3 are same, so you will be fine to use any aluminum bulks you like....

Either way, I wont have the money right away to get them, till they start to break (I dont bash that hard....) Then upgrade

I want to see what traxxas will come out with also

suicideneil 10.22.2007 05:48 PM

Cheap-skate...:lol:

Na, I understand totally. That said, the existing aluminium bulks that traxxas sells dont look much better than some nasty old Integy ones, only they are atleast made from 6061 t6, rather than whatever Integy uses..... lead?:rofl:

Would be nice for Traxxas to come out with a larger range of upgrade parts themselves though.:yes:

BlackedOutREVO 10.22.2007 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 124518)
Cheap-skate...:lol:

Na, I understand totally. That said, the existing aluminium bulks that traxxas sells dont look much better than some nasty old Integy ones, only they are atleast made from 6061 t6, rather than whatever Integy uses..... lead?:rofl:

Would be nice for Traxxas to come out with a larger range of upgrade parts themselves though.:yes:

LOL, I am when it comes to getting the car running, or buying all the upgrades, and having a rolling truck lol

FLM uses the same alu, but its silver insted of blue..... Dont know which one I like more lol

I hope they do, the single speed tranny stock is awesome, single motor mount and gear cover is cool, even though I dont use gear covers, and the plat will stay with 2 because I might put the titians in to screw around in water or something

BP-Revo 10.22.2007 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO (Post 124519)
LOL, I am when it comes to getting the car running, or buying all the upgrades, and having a rolling truck lol

FLM uses the same alu, but its silver insted of blue..... Dont know which one I like more lol

I hope they do, the single speed tranny stock is awesome, single motor mount and gear cover is cool, even though I dont use gear covers, and the plat will stay with 2 because I might put the titians in to screw around in water or something

Just buy an MGM ESC, and leave the rest stock (well, brushless motor too of course). Then, just seal up some Lipo's and you will have a brushless truck to screw around in water... :yes:

BlackedOutREVO 10.22.2007 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BP-Revo (Post 124526)
Just buy an MGM ESC, and leave the rest stock (well, brushless motor too of course). Then, just seal up some Lipo's and you will have a brushless truck to screw around in water... :yes:

Well going from CC mamba, MM, the MMM will be waterproof also..... The motor can get screwed

But no MGM stuff, dont want it, want CC, and the combo, as the car, lipos, and the combo is dang spendy, and I need racing stuff also......

So I would use the brushed crap, or sell it on flea bay, I duno

BlackedOutREVO 10.24.2007 09:44 PM

Alright, more questions

I cant decide, wing, or no wing?:lol:

I have some new unused 40's road rage, so I think those are good for street, if not, I will break out the tire sauce, and sauce the, up, and I will be good:na:

Body size, are we thinking, like the revo 3.3 sorta size?

How crappy are the smaller hexes? If the tires are always cranked down (and I always use thread lock, lol so I havent lost a wheel nut in a long time, well on my bashers lol......

on the old E, or the T whatever, how are the stock shocks? Junk, or?

BP-Revo 10.24.2007 10:41 PM

Personally I've never stripped a 14mm hex unless the nut loosened. So as long as you thread lock it and make sure its tight, you won't have to worry (exception is if you are running like 9000 watts of power or something thats completely overkill..)

BlackedOutREVO 10.24.2007 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BP-Revo (Post 124976)
Personally I've never stripped a 14mm hex unless the nut loosened. So as long as you thread lock it and make sure its tight, you won't have to worry (exception is if you are running like 9000 watts of power or something thats completely overkill..)

Alright, cool!

I am the same way, is it gets loose, I strip the pin slot...

No, just a MMM combo:mdr:

squeeforever 10.24.2007 11:30 PM

Yea, stock shocks are really bad. Get some Powerstrokes. There the BEST shocks for the Maxx...

jhautz 10.24.2007 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever (Post 124989)
Yea, stock shocks are really bad. Get some Powerstrokes. There the BEST shocks for the Maxx...

Right on Squee!

BlackedOutREVO 10.25.2007 01:32 AM

Do I need the 8, or just the 4 coil shocks?

What does it cost for what I need?

suicideneil 10.26.2007 08:42 AM

Towerhobbies has the by-pass shocks for $47.99 a pair, but the actual coil shocks are discontinued. I would have thought though that you need both types to get the best results?....

BlackedOutREVO 10.26.2007 06:30 PM

HMM, 200 for shocks?

Or 100 for the UE's... Well, thats a hard one........

Thats WAAAAY to much for shocks! Im sure it would be awesome, but dang, thats alot of cash

BlackedOutREVO 10.28.2007 05:41 PM

I was looking around at my rc stuff, and saw my revo

I could use the revo shocks on the maxx, but im worried about suspension travel, and how low the truck will be........ Would they be good, or no?


And also, past the crappy stock bulks, what else breaks? Most of the stuff has been beefed up, and it looks like the only thing left to upgrade is the bulks

EDIT

What about the combo bulks? Will they make the diffs last longer, or are they just for weight?

squeeforever 10.28.2007 09:59 PM

They won't fit the new diffs I don't think. They will increase strength though. Less flex...

BlackedOutREVO 10.28.2007 10:40 PM

Well people at traxxas say they will..... Here its no

Everyones all turned around.......

squeeforever 10.28.2007 11:04 PM

People at Traxxas say what?

BlackedOutREVO 10.28.2007 11:19 PM

That they will fit, and all the stuff is the same size........

squeeforever 10.28.2007 11:44 PM

From what I've read, there backwards compatible with the Revo diffs, but not the Maxx diffs. Not sure though.

BlackedOutREVO 10.28.2007 11:49 PM

No, Zinno (MOD there...) said they are backwards compatible with the maxx also

But I thought Neil said that the bearing sizes are different..... IDK

BP-Revo 10.29.2007 12:28 AM

The entire new E-Maxx diff, housing included, can be put into an Maxx truck.

However, only the diff internals can be put into a Revo diff. (by that they probably mean the spyder gears, pins, and that new little mid brace thingy).

BlackedOutREVO 10.29.2007 12:31 AM

does that mean I can use the combo bulks????

Or just alu bulks?

BP-Revo 10.29.2007 12:48 AM

It looks like the diff housing is different (internally to allow the use of the Revo style stuff), so you probably have to use some bulk that allows the use of a stock maxx style diff housing.

BlackedOutREVO 10.29.2007 12:55 AM

so just FLM bulks??? I just want alu bulks so I font break them every time I drive it..... So it they don't work thats fine, saves money also.

So either way its fine

BP-Revo 10.29.2007 01:15 AM

To be honest the only part of stock bulks I'd be worried about is the part where it connects to the shock tower, and even so its not much of a problem from what I see.

The only reason I got aluminum bulks is that the hinge pins would bend in a certain area ONLY because the bulks would allow it. With aluminum bulks, that area of the hinge pins NEVER bent. I ripped an RPM arm right out and the hinge pin was still straight as an arrow (though another part of it bent, which annoyed me).

However, my plan is to just run JDCarbon hinge pins...to run these, you just need to tap a set screw into the bulks (super easy if you run stock bulks, still not really that hard with aluminum bulks).

However, since these are CF, they will flex a little without breaking, helping to absorb impact. However, most importantly, they can't bend, so really you either break them or you don't. If you just keep a second set of them with you (they only cost like 16 for the whole set) then you will never have to worry...this is my plan if I get the new Maxx at least...

suicideneil 10.29.2007 12:59 PM

With reference to diffs:
There is a heck of a lot of confusion over on the Traxxas forum, however, I have carefully studied the part numbers and exploded views so that I can provide a definative answer. The new emaxx diffs use different sized bearings on either side of the 'pumpkin', so they will not work with the older maxx style casings. The internals however will be a direct fit & upgrade to existing revo diffs. The entire new emaxx diff is a direct fit for the old emaxx and t-maxx bulks. Therefore, you cannot use the new emaxx diff internals with the flm combo bulks- only the entire diff with normal plastic/alloy bulks.

I find it amazing how even the traxxas employee over there wasnt aware of this at first, and still one or two kids over there want to argue the toss when the exploded views simply dont lie...

BlackedOutREVO 10.29.2007 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BP-Revo (Post 125792)
To be honest the only part of stock bulks I'd be worried about is the part where it connects to the shock tower, and even so its not much of a problem from what I see.

The only reason I got aluminum bulks is that the hinge pins would bend in a certain area ONLY because the bulks would allow it. With aluminum bulks, that area of the hinge pins NEVER bent. I ripped an RPM arm right out and the hinge pin was still straight as an arrow (though another part of it bent, which annoyed me).

However, my plan is to just run JDCarbon hinge pins...to run these, you just need to tap a set screw into the bulks (super easy if you run stock bulks, still not really that hard with aluminum bulks).

However, since these are CF, they will flex a little without breaking, helping to absorb impact. However, most importantly, they can't bend, so really you either break them or you don't. If you just keep a second set of them with you (they only cost like 16 for the whole set) then you will never have to worry...this is my plan if I get the new Maxx at least...


Which bulks did you use? I want FLM, but I havent looked at the traxxas ones, but I think FLM's are cheaper, and have a warranty...

So overall, the alu bulks do a few things a?


Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 125856)
With reference to diffs:
There is a heck of a lot of confusion over on the Traxxas forum, however, I have carefully studied the part numbers and exploded views so that I can provide a definative answer. The new emaxx diffs use different sized bearings on either side of the 'pumpkin', so they will not work with the older maxx style casings. The internals however will be a direct fit & upgrade to existing revo diffs. The entire new emaxx diff is a direct fit for the old emaxx and t-maxx bulks. Therefore, you cannot use the new emaxx diff internals with the flm combo bulks- only the entire diff with normal plastic/alloy bulks.

I find it amazing how even the traxxas employee over there wasnt aware of this at first, and still one or two kids over there want to argue the toss when the exploded views simply dont lie...


Yeah, its really starting to piss me off!:diablo:

I ask a question, and get 100 different answers, and all but very few are newbs, and the only person I have actually gotten help by, was you Neil... So thanks there man

So, thats what I needed to hear, so sounds just like I need to add some FLM's to the list then huh?

Any better ones? For the 80 dollar range?

suicideneil 10.30.2007 07:28 PM

In that price range you are looking at maybe the Garc bulks, or NewEra have some nice simple 6061 bulks too- they look fine, just no fancy maching done to reduce weight etc. To be honest I would say the FLM stuff is best overall for price, design, weight and the warrenty factor.


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