xl 2000 w/schulze
 

I have just bought the xl 2000. I want to know if some one has suggestion on where to start for gearing. I am running 18 cells. I have gp 3300 and gp 3700. Running the g maxx chassis with rpm arms fastland bulkless.

1/8th bulkless or the standard gear types? the controller is a 18.97?

Hey!! I'm running that exact set-up (minus the G-Maxx chassis - will I will have soon. I have mine geared at 18/72, it gives me huge amounts of torque and is very quick. After a good 25minutes (believe me, your runtimes will be this long!!) the motor is about 180F on a hot day (80F). My controller (7020) doesn't get above 90F whatever I do!

I would suggest starting at around 16/72, which is where I started and just gear up as needed. Mike suggested to me I should be looking at about 20/72 or even 22/72, but unless the motor temps drop below 180F I'm staying put at 18/72.

Hope this helps....and enjoy the set-up!!!

I am running a heat sink on motor i have now. That helps alot. I just want some longer run time. I am running the robinson gears with aluminum diff cups. They are holding very well so far. I was told to expect trouble from them. I am running a 7xl nemisis right now. It is hard to keep front tires on ground and it is fast.

OH standard and you right it is a 18.97

I was wondering to if some one can tell me if the extension for the gmaxx is good or not.

The g-maxx extension rocks (of course, I am somewhat biased:)). I am not alone in my satisfaction, though.

Do you have the rear shaft to go with it mike? You have all the cool stuff don't you mike?

Yes, I have the titanium rear dogbones. And yes, I do have some cool stuff, too!

That must by why you the man mike. I have to put another order in with you then. I want the truck to run better. Hard to do with front tires in air or truck on roof. An other suggestions to fix this problem beisde lighter trigger finger. lol

Where is the dog bones at and what the price?

I have the UE dogbones. They are not yet listed on the site, though (send me an e-mail and we will work it out). I am in the process of some site re-organization, along with adding MANY new items!

The chassis extension and motor mount help keep the wheelies in check, along with a properly adjusted strobe slipper(and a controlled trigger finger helps!).

I am not in a big hurry mike so i just wait unitl you get every thing in order. I going to get new motor hopefully next couple of days form you. I see you have shipped it out. I going to dial that in first.

Alright. Thanks. As always, I am available to help you as needed.

I took truck out and test drove it. It did great for little while. Can some one tell me how you tell if motor or esc is bad. I think it is the esc.

What does it do(or doesn't it do)?

I took truck out and test drove it. It did great for little while. Can some one tell me how you tell if motor or esc is bad. I think it is the esc.

Sorry about the repeat. It keeps going back like you unhook the batts. It is cogging really bad. I may hook the other motor back up and go from there.

Does it drive?

every now and then. You will get it to move some. The motor feels like it does not spin free as it did.

That could be a problem. Have a look at the motor. is the shaft still in its proper place? I recently had a motor that somehow had the shaft move towards the rear of the truck, which caused some drag. This is not a good thing if it is the case and could damage the controller if you run it.

That don't sound good. I in the process of putting another motor on. The one I had before i put that one on. The shaft isin right spot. It has a smell coming form it to. My opinion is changing on problem. I haven't ruled out esc. It may be bad as well.

The motor smells or the controller?

motor. The esc has an electric smell. the motor smells burnt.

It is pretty hard to burn up one of those motors. I hope you didn't bury the mounting screws into the windings when you installed the motor(that would cause some trouble).

I checked that when put it on. I had to add some washers to space back some. Had heatsink on motor to. Sh** it happens right. lol

Well, yes, Sh@# happens, but there is usually a reason for it to happen.

The motor seemed to get a little warm. Kind of hot really. I am running a heavy truck though. 18 pinion 70 on the spur. 18 cells gp3700. Truck weighed in at 14.5 pounds rtr. Weighed before i took it out. It did great for the size motor.

Wow! You were working the motor pretty hard! That is a lot of weight for the little Lehner, and tall gearing for the cell count as well. The 7xl with a lower gearing is more the motor for the beast you are running!

That is what i took off. I wanted a longer run time. I think i messed up. You have to live and learn some how. It cost some time. I like to have a really powerful motor that can run a long time. I don't worry so much about speed as i do power. I like the 7 xl. But wanted to see if i could improve. I thought the motor would be bigger too.

What does it mean when you turn the cooper wire black inside the motor?

Gear down the 7xl and you will get a longer runtime. For the most part, the only way to get more power or runtime or both (of any significance) is by adding power (cells).

If you go up in cell count do you have to change gearing for that to.

Typically, as you add cells, you want to drop the gearing or you will only draw more amps(basic electric theory). Short answer- yes.

Now that is something i had no idea about. That would explain a lot.

Black windings means you burnt the motor windings up(must have missed that post). It must have been scorching hot!

I going to go back to 7 xl and go from there. I need to get me some smaller pinions now. Any suggestion on gearing for truck.

What about if I go to a 10 or 9 XL.

Assuming ytou have stock sized tires and diffs, I would start with around 15/70. This puts your speed in the mid 30s, but should give you a nice runtime and killer torque.