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MM/Neu...just make somes test
OK, first, my revo is almost done, the only thing missing is my MGM16018. But tonight, i've my MM sit on my table on my workshop, and i decided to give it a try with my Neu 1515, 1Y.
I'am geared 16/38 and you know what??? NO COGGING AT ALL:intello: It start verrrrry smooth from a dead stop, and accelerate like a beast!!!! This FlightPower EVO25 have moooooooooore power than my old 6000mAh, 14.8 maxamps pck. I'am very happy with this pre-test and i don't know why i've spend $300.00 on my MGM:whistle: Anyways, i'll put the MGM in the truck as soon as i'll recieve it, and i'll keep the MM like a spare, because i think that MGM is very long for services:eyes: |
That's good to hear! Is it a new MM or an older one?
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Doesn't surprise me. We have a bunch (and I mean a bunch) of guys around here (including myself) that run a Neu/MM combo without cogging. We re-wire the controller with 12ga and direct-solder. Add some good batts and the right MM settings, and you're good to go. The Neu/MM "problem" is way overblown.
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I think its because, you are using the Y wind. I seen those with the D winds have a lot of trouble. gearing helps as well
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Don't know the difference between the "Y" and "Delta" winding and cogging effect.
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also running the revo 2 spd. should help, great to hear btw
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The Y and Delta winds use the same number of wires, as it were, but are configured differently to produce a higher or lower Kv rating. How this effects cogging exactly I dont understand either- maybe its like more agressive timing vs softer timing, but in the actual motor and not via esc programming?.... whatever, the only reason no to use the MM esc is simply down to voltage and current draw limitations, but it all depends on how hot & hard you drive I guess.
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Ya, my driving style is very "soft". Never nail the trigger from dead stop.
I'am a track racer, and like to put lot of expo on the Tx to keep the thing controlable:yes: |
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Happywing - what is you set up that you are using? Any tips to keeping the cogging to a minimum?
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The 1512 2.5D on MM in my buggy works well also. There is occasional cogging, but I don't race (and if I were to, the buggy wouldn't be stopped much at all).
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I'd also like to know what your MM settings are too actually ^_^ im actually putting mine together right now
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Please post the settings you guys are having success with. I ran the MM on a 6 pole Plettenberg with no cogging issue what so ever. My settings are:
Brake/reverse type: Proportional w/o reverse Brake amount: 40% Start power: Low Motor timing: Normal |
I found that a linear throttle curve was a problem because I have a "heavy trigger" finger. IIRC at the 30% point hold with the left mouse button and pull down so that the results is a soomth curve upwards.
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I don't have the MM in front of me (and it's at home, I'm at school), but I think the settings are:
-High start power -30% punch control -timing I'm not sure of, but I think I have it at medium -linear throttle curve -60% brake |
The cogging was helped tremendously by making the throttle curve exponential. My settings were:
brake 30% punch 80% start pwr high motor timing low |
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Brake 30% Punch Control 40% Start Power Med Drag Brake Disabled Motor Timing Normal We have found that pinion size has a lot to do with cogging. I have a high Kv motor in order to run a small pinion. Mine had a slight stutter in my first buggy. My present buggy is almost a pound lighter and the stutter has disappeared. If you can reduce weight and rotating mass, it helps. |
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Yes, I've heard that is a problem with the Emaxx trans. A smooth can motor would allow a smaller pinion, but I don't know how small.
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One thing I noticed that might be causing all the cogging is the stregth of the magnet on some motors in conjuction with the stator.
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I was talking to Joe down at castle today, and he mentioned this as well. The gearing is sensitive for consistent loaded down startups. |
Well, this is one thing I notice with the Tekno conversion. It utilizes the stock Revo clutch which allows the motor to rev up before actually having any load on it at all, which would reduce cogging quite significantly, if I'm correct.
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But, given the torque of BL, wouldn't that put considerable stress on the driveline? I suppose you could dial in some slip to fix that though...
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