I believe i pulled off a first, I broke an RC-Monster diff pinion
 

I broke the pinion of a RC-Monster diff conversion, I had run at the track for a bit and had some trouble with my MGM, I swapped the MGM for my quark 125 and run in the yard for a bitafter a few small jumps and a few speed runs to make sure the esc was ok, i lost the rear wheels power (thought i had a setscrew loose again). I am going to see if mike can get me one without a conversion. I will post pics later tonight or tomorrow, i just thought you guys might want to know. I think i figured it out though, the pinion is drilled for weight and when mike machined it down it went too thin, A sharp jar might break it. I got to say, the Neu 1515/2.5d (1700kv) is impressive on power

This is exactly what i suspect with my RCM hybrid diff. When i've build it, and realise how thin is the material left on the pinion, i was disapointed:gasp:
Like you say, the pinion is drilled in the center to reduce weight i suppose, and where Mike have machined it to accept the revo center drive shaft, i'am ot certain if he left 1mm of metal:surprised:

I've contact Mike and ask the question, but he said to me that he never had any broke pinion report.

I'am not 100% certain if this $250.00 setup will old very long.:eyes:

What i want to do is to replace the 6x12mm bearing by a 8x12mm and use a stock, non-modified pinion from HB, and run the HB diff outdrive with a set of center dog bone. But i'am not sure if the 8x12mm bearing will hold very long:neutral: The ball in a 8x12mm is very small compare to the 6x12mm bearing.

I think that Mike will have to work on a V2 of his hybrid diffs and help all the guys how had invest the $250.00 on the V1....Because i've a Neu 1515 1Y and i'am not sure if this pinion willl last very long:oh:

I'm not saying they will all break, I just said mine did. I might be a bit rough on mine, I'd like to see Mike make some custom hardened without the drilled hole

+1. tHE HOLE IN THE CENTER IS THE WEAK SPOT ON THIS PINION

Did ou use the 2 speed trany or you lock it in second gear?

Emaxx tranny with strobe tightened all the way and a gorillamaxx single speed conversion and steel idler. What i meant about the power of the Neu 1515/2.5, I'm runing 20/51 gearing and it runs about 37mph

I am gonna run 6s flightpowers on mine, I am sure they will do better than the stockers.

V2 diff cases will be listed in a couple days, actually. The cases are modified to use a non-modified diff pinion with the V2(uses 8x14 bearings for the diff pinion). Just need to get some pictures and post them to the site.

I am shocked to hear about the failure, though - 1st pinion failure I have seen, but I figured out the V2 several months ago simply to avoid the hassle of modifying the pinions(sucks to do). The Hot Bodies pinions are drilled for lightness and I was suspicious at first regarding strength, but this is the absolute 1st failure to my knowledge(in other words, they are pretty darn strong - I have a prototype in my Revo still going strong for a year now!).

And what about the guys who've bought the V1?? Did you have a special price to replace the case and pinion or i will have to pay $80.00 to have two V2 cases + pinion??

The v1 still works fine - just a PITA to modify the pinions, which is why the V2 is replacing it. If you haven't used your V1, you can swap it out no problem, but lets not assume that it will fail - with one failure in 80+ diffs out there, the failure rate is pretty low.

I've not put my V1 in the revo yet, i want to give a test to my stock revo diff before to put your diff in it. My V1 is sit on my workbench for now, but i'am not certain if i'll send it back to you to exchange for the V2 case and pinion or pay for another set of V2 case and pinion and keep it as a spare in my tool box.
Like that i'll can run the V1, if he broke, i'll have the V2 in hand to replace quickly, and if the V1 hold well, the V2 will stay in my toll box, maybe for a futur project:yes:

So keep us inform when the V2 will be available, and i'll e-mail you to order a set as soon as it will be available, and please Mike, if you can make somes buggy ratio at first, this is this one i'll need.

Than you Mike to take care of us, all guys here appreciated your work:yes:

David

The buggy and truggy diffs are compatible(same mount configuration inside the cases), so it is "one case fits all" kind of. The truggy ring and pinion fit inside the same case as the buggy ring and pinion - the ring and pinion is the only difference.

One nice benefit of the V2 cases - most 1/8 diffs from Hot Bodies, Kyosho, Ofna should fit, so anyone with diffs already will only need the case. :)
I have the V2 done - just need to get pictures and package/label them. :)

If i had wait a week or two before to order my V1, i would have to order only the V2 case and pinion, because i already have 4 kyosho diff sit here. And i would save lot of $$$:oh:

I'am always too "quick" when it,s time to order somethings, and i pay for it.....

Hey Mike, if the buggy and truggy is the same case, how the diff ring gear would mesh with buggy or truggy pinion??

Hey Mike, will 8x12 bearings fit and work? or, will they fail? I need a pinion for mine, do you have any that you can seperate from a kit? The machined down ones if the 8x12's won't work

Hey crazyjr, the 8x12 bearing fit in you V1 case without any problems, the only downside of putting a 8x12mm bearing, is the diameter of the ball in this bearing. I think that the ball inside a 8x12 bearing don't hold the brutal force of the brushless motor.
With the V2 case that Mike is work, this will be the exact case that the V1 exept were the bearing goes thru, it will machine it to 14mm instead of 12mm, to be able to run a 8x14 bearing.
Just wait and see if the extra material that he will remove from the case will not hurt the solidity of the case around the new bearing, because the material left would be about only 1mm around the bearing. I say it under all reserve, because i don't see the new case yet.

But for sure i'll order a set of V2 case + pinion, just to have it in my toolbox in case of my V1 fail.

I am hoping, that Mike still has a few of the machined down ones. I want to try something, so others with the V1 might can strengthen them. I think the cavity can be filled with JB Weld and that will help by preventing a flex point. Besides, I don't want to have to buy the V2 if the V1 is still good. with christmas coming i don't got the disposable income to swing them till after

Now I don't have a Monster diff so I don't know what the pinion looks like. Torsional strength is highest in the outer radius the metal in the center does little other then add weight. I'll have to see pictures.

V2 Revo Hybrid diff/cases are listed but they say out of stock still. They look good

Yes but due to the fact that the V2 use an unmoded pinion, this will be a beatiful problem to find a set of center driving shaft who'll fit the 8mm diff outdrive on the new pinion and the 6mm trany output shaft.

I look for it since 4 days and don't find anything.

Easy all you need are drive cups and a dogbone style driveshaft

I KNOW I NEED DRIVE CUP, BUT WICH ONE??? For the diff pinion, it's easy, any 8mm drive cup will fit, but on the stock trany output shaft, you need a 6mm hole in the drive cup.
Could you find me a drive cup who'll accept a standard 8mm dogbone and having a 6mm hole on it???????

This is the main problem.

The guys who have a 1/8 style center diff or the "sliperential" don't have any problem, but the guys like me who have the stock trany have a serious problem to find a proper drive cup to fit the output trany shaft.:eyes:

No problem david, http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/85036.html

Thank you very much, but is this accept a standard 1/8 dog bone??

They said 6mm, but they don't say if it's the hole that go thrue the shaft how's 6mm or if it's for a 6mm dogbone style.

Let me say this.... I have been beating the snot out of my V1 difs for quite while now with no problems at all. I opened them up after a couple months of use to clean them and change the fluid and they looked like new except for the dirt on the outside of the case. I run a solid drivtrain with 1/8 center diff mounted between the gmaxx chassis braces so there is no slipper and I have not been able to break it. I am rather hard on my diffs. When I was running the stockers I would break the rear every 5 or six packs. It was really bad I used to keep a spare rebuilt diff in my toolbox ready to go cuz I knew I was going to break one.

All that being said.... If the V1s will be discontinued maybe I should get a spare pinion just in case. Couldnt hurt to have one on hand cuz getting them later after they are no longer being made will be tough. Is is possible to just buy the pinion without the rest of the diff?

I thought i'd update you guys, I got another pinion, V1. I plan to run them till i can get a V2 set, then they will go to my 3.3 nitro (should make it nasty out if the corners).

To answer some of the questions about the V2 (talked to mike about them), he has the cups for the 8mm input, but they are not included in the diff conversion. he also has modified center shafts for the revo that will run the 8mm inputs of the V2 diffs.

he also has a few pinions for the V1, if you wish to get a spare

Hi,

I would like to show you my problem.
Look at the following picture. My rear V1 pinion gear is broken.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...niongearV1.jpg

I need the replacement part and maybe a spare pinion just in case.

How can I contact Mike please ?

Pascal

You can email Mike

rcmonstermike@gmail.com

He should be able to get you the parts you need.

hehe, I guess thats two. I had to buy a new pinion for mine (I think it was 15 bucks for the modded pinion) had no troubles with new one so far. I plan to replace these with the V2 and put these in my nitro, less stress and make the nitro quicker out the corners

Thank you for your answers, Mike will send me the spare parts.
If I break the V1 pinion again, I will upgrade to the V2 diff.