Good BL System
 

So i had my heart set out on the HV 6.5 for a little bit now and was pretty sure i was gonna go wit it...until i heard people say it is not the best way to spend $300.

so, $300 is my MAX budget. im going to be running EP 4200 7 cells. I alwso want a system i can drop in there, mainly the motor, i can deal wit finding a mount for the ESC. Im very new to BL systems so i get real confused when people talk about neu and fiego?...
i will be doing mostly bashing and i would like a top speed of 45+

I was hoping someone here would know waht set up i should go with with my budget. I heard yall were the best to talk to about this. Thanks

mamba maxx esc and a fieago motor would be a much better choice probably a 9XL or 10XL motor with RCM heat sink.

BTW welcome to the forums

I will second that, might want to gear for 40 instead of 45, it will help keep the heat down.

If only running 14 cells, the 9 or 10XL will be to slow. Go for a 7XL, maybe a 8XL if runtime is a concern.

sweet! quick questions i forgot to ask

do you guys agree that getting the Hv is a bad way to spend 300 on brushless?
or not the most efficient?

what is the difference between the 7xl and 8xl is it a turn number?speed?

what speeds can i hit with the 7xl and 8xl

any modding required to install the 7xl or 8xl?

thanks!!!

yes the 8xl and 7xl and mabey even the 9xl motors and castle esc are much better than the novak setup hands down. If i am not mistaken the number in front of the XL is the winds.

i think im going to go with the 7xl and mamba max esc.

but a question, how to i wire the batteries?i see there is only one set of battery connectors. does the system still require 14.4v?

The 7XL might be a little too "hot" for the MM IMO. The 8XL is the lowest I would go. But I suppose if you watch the temps on the ESC and gear accordingly, you should be ok...

no, it's just you can get a more reasonable setup in terms of KV and torque. the novak compensates the lack of torque of the small rotor with a high KV. with their latest and greatest sintered rotor their motors tend to stay nice and cool, but the temperature of the controller might be rather high. Overall i like the setup. It moves well, especially on a lightweight vehicle and 4S lipo. it feels peppy.

get a series connector.

connect it to both batteries and it will connect right into the mm esc.

sweet wont be too ahrd to make that.

Do i need the UBEC by castle to run 14cell?

are my EP 4200 7cells a high quality battery good for this system?

where in the world can iget IB batteries?

Yes, get a UBEC for anything 3s or more!

TBH, I think you'd be happier with lipos if you can swing it. I don't think I've seen any NiMH cells that can provide the current AND voltage BL systems can pull... not without stressing them anyway.

Just to play devils advocate for a minute I would say that the HV 6.5 system is a good reliable turnkey setup for a Maxx.

It may not go 45 mph but we're talking about an E-Maxx here right?

It trips me out to see guys setting up a "Monster Truck" like a race car. If you want to go that fast you should put that Neu or Fieago system in a buggy. It would go faster and handle better.

I have a HV 6.5 in my maxx but it's made for bashing and running over stuff. It has all the power that the terrain I like to run on can handle.

If I put it on the street I can see where you might want a little more juice. But for off road, it has plenty of power.

ok thanks for the info guys!!

another Q, would the MM and 8xl be so much powr that i need stronger diffs?

i forgot to sayi dont want a system thatll rip my stock maxx in one run

but dont worry, im going t odo a complete 3.3 conversion:rofl:

Dont forget, he said he has a $300 limit. I dont think you can get a full set up (motor/esc/UBEC/gears/heatsink) for under 300 unless you go with Novak. I'd also recommend a 4.5 instead of the 6.5. Its a little faster. IMHO, the Novak systems are great plug and play systems. No, your not going to be the fastest on the block, but they should be reliable systems that will hold up over the long run. 45MPH in a maxx is probably not going to happen, especially if you dont pop for lipo's. But you probably wont hit that with the systems mentioned above without lipo's either.

Don't be surprised when your diffs prove to be the weak link in the drive train, even 3.3 diffs won't last. At least shim them properly and put the diffs in some cheapie metal diff cases so they can't twist under accel. That might make them last a little longer.

OS 18TM was enough to shred my 2.5 rear diff repeatedly and the 8xl should deliver more torque than that. The difference in the 3.3 diff was 2 extra screws in the stock plastic diff case so it had 4 vs the 2 screws the 2.5 stock diff case had. Was some better, but not strong enough, it can still twist enough to let R&P strip.

diffs are the red headed stepchild of these trucks. it just seems strange that a stock diff is such an extremely weak link. i'm very interested to see how the new maxx diffs hold up to extreme power and abuse (i'll personally be torturing them with my LMT) that traxxas says they can take. i'm not holding my breath...

after LONG LONG intese thinking, i have decided to go with the MM and 8xl motor. going to run EP 4200 7cell for a while then ill take the dive into lipo after i pay my car off, only 6 months left:yipi:


what gearing should i use. the gear calc says o use a 18 pinion and 66 spur to achieve 45. is that gearing to low? cuz ikbow he hv systems require like a 12pinion 72 spur.

Not too low, maybe a little high infact. The 8xl will run a little hotter than the 9xl, so gearing down a touch is advisable- aim for more like 40mph; going faster than that will be hard to control. Easy way to know if you are over/under geared:

Hot motor + cool esc/batteries = under geared. (not enough load on motor, so it over revs)
Cool motor + hot esc/batteries = over geared. (too much load on esc to supply amps, causes it to heat up & thermal/fail)

Generally speaking anyway. You will want a fan on the MM and run a ubec to power the tx & servos (disable built in bec via programming or remove red wire from rx lead to esc).

cool i guess gearing will just have to be a combo of the gearing calc and tem checking.

so i went to the CC part of the forum and people are saying NOT to run 14cells on the MM controllers cuz they are frying. Is this true?

Hey, I am running an 8xl with a quark, (But the MM should be fine) I assume you will be running a strobe with a 51 tooth spur? If so start your gearing at 14/51 and go up on the pinion to tweak it.

Well, the older MMs could do upto 14 cells/5s with no problems really. Newer MMs use different parts internally (fets) and the voltage limit has been lowered so that 12 cells/4s is the maximum. The Quark125b is a solid controller and good for more voltage, but sooner or later the heat spreader inside seperates from the fets, and it causes thermal shut downs, even though the outside of the case is cool (heat cannot travel between fets & case, so fets overheat). It is said to be the smoothest esc available at the moment though, which is a big plus for racing.

Correction to above post 12 cells and 3s max lipos.