My Revos!!!
 

Here are both of my revos. Just finished both of them, and have a few runs on each. The first has the full Teknno conversion, an Aveox 2000kv, quark 80 air, 5s 5000mah lipo. Running a JR 9100t for steering and a futaba 3050 for brakes, off a y cable with the esc. The quark programs easy to just use the positve throttle range, no brakes or reverse. Currently have a 15/40 gearing, will step down to a 14t clutchbell as the speed is a bit much (radared at 44mph!). Way different than driving a direct drive electric, the clutch softens the takeoff. It will still wheely, just not as aggressively. I like the setup, just need better tires, the talons are a little soft for that kind of speed.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1647.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1648.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1649.jpg

Here is the other Revo. It is Metalman's old revo that he built, I bought it off Mailman who got it in a trade. I did a few mods to the "slipperential" and added some lexan side guards and emaxx battery trays. Currently has a 7xl on a MM running 4s 500mah lipo. Has a hitec 645 for steering on it. It is a 3racing extended chassis that came out before the 3.3. It also has the extended wheelbase rear arms, so it is about truggy length. Runs good, but could do with better batteries as they are heating up a bit more than I like. The center diff really makes it turn well, and keeps all of the tires on the ground too! I cusom made the front cvd out of an emaxx cvd, just cut it in half and welded back to the length I needed.


http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1650.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1651.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1652.jpg

Excellant work Lincpimp. A couple of very nice revo's you have there!

How does the single steering servo feel compared to the dual 2055's? I like how the dual servo's feel, but I'm doing a Electric Conversion of my own right now. Space is such an issue.

Does the Mamba Max esc serve that setup pretty good? I recently purchased one from Ebay. A 7700kv motor/esc combo. The guy said that it would work for a few minutes and then shut down. He stated that "Only 10 packs ran through, don't know what's wrong with it, so I'm selling it for parts only!" $30 bucks! I grabbed that.

When I got it, I checked it out. Turned out to be a bad male 4mm connector on the motor! :surprised:

Great Revo's! Thanks for posting. Gives me new ideas.

your brake servo's horn on the first one is at a rather weird angle? is the brake predictable?

I can't get over the idea that it's odd to use a clutch on an electric vehicle.. It's adding maintanance and unneeded rotational mass parts.

you got lucky on that combo sikeston! 30 bucks! not bad.. too bad that guy didn't knew about castles warrantee though..

Awesome stuff man! I think the clutch setup will be great!

why would it be great? can you explain?

The rotational mass you speak of is so minimal it would not even matter. As far as what my explanation is on this is that it will allow much more adjust ability as far as setting the slipper clutch up and such. I think it will be very appreciated for the racers. Another thing I know for a fact is that the guys at Tekno really R & D the crap out of all there products. And from the other products they currently sell that I bought I have no reason to believe that this setup would be any less than great. I know they have done extensive testing on this setup with no ill effects.

Rotational mass on the point where it's most critical. that's what it is. it's far from neglectable.

racers usually know how to setup their radio/speedcontroller, it might be okay for those who jumped from nitro to electric, but other than that it's pretty useless.

and the maintanance free factor of brushless isn't helped by it either.

I'm with you serum, I can't see why you'd want to have a power-losing device such as that in your driveline. One of the main advantages of electric is the crisp acceleration that you get with direct drive. I see the clutch as throwing that away.

With anything like this, when stuff doesn't make sense, follow the money. I'm betting that it was way easier and cheaper for tekno to stick the clutch setup on the end of a motor than it was to get the motor under that roll bar there.

I'm not saying it's a bad setup, because it obviously works...it's just not for me.

Sleeb

yep! i share your opinion on the money technical solution for the clutch thing..

Here, here.... I would rather have a Feigao motor with no clutch, than a Neu with a clutch on it. I think they shot themselves in the foot on that one.

Hey sike, Thanks for the kind words. I have only driven a nitro revo with the dual servos, all of my electric revos have had a single. The tekno revo with the jr servo is insane, I have the cc bec set at 6.5 v anf it swings the wheels like nothing, even hard on the brakes. I am going to swap out the MM in the slipper revo for a modded one that griffinru did for me. It does get hot when running the 7xl, especially with the current 20/40 gearing. I will also step up to 20/44 gearing, found some mod1 44t spurs that should work after some mods! Great deal on the MM combo, those 4mm plugs were loose on all of mine (7) and caused probs too, sell the 7700 motor on ebay, they go for at least 50 bucks, and are junk IMO.

Hey serum, the brake servo is setup like that cause I am using a Y cable to run the brake sevo and esc off the same channel. So of course the servo moves both ways. With the linkage setup that way it barely moves the linkage when the throttle is applied, thus making the brakes apply faster when going from full throttle to full brake. I have it set so that the brakes just lock up at full brake, and fell linear before that point. I had to play with the length of fuel tubing to get the right feel. I have a 3 channel which I intend to use to mix channels so that the servo does not move when the throttle is applied.

Now on the clutch topic, it is definately different. From a standstill, full throttle can be applied quickly and it does not instantly flip over. It will flip but the clutch does slip and it is noticable. With very small throttle input, the motor just spins, and you can gradually feed in more and make it move very sowly. Only down side is clutch temps. Like an idiot I touched it last night and burned myself! It was hot, more than a feigao after a 30min run:lol:

It is something different, that is all I can say. I am not a racer, but I have now run both a nitro 3.3 and this electric 3.3 and I can say that this is way superior. Not sure if that will translate to the track, but the setup does work. I have found that the largest gearing that can be used is a 15/40. That is the full adjustment on the motor mount. I am going down to a 14t clutchbell as this is heating up the aveox a little. I will say that it is tough, I flipped it quite a few times at 40mph and went into a ditch and various catwheels, nothing broke or shifted.

that heat you felt is just a waste of energy, you know that.. :)

Not sure if I am overworking the aveox? I have a feeling that the gearing is too high, it is too fast anyway so I will lower the gearing a little and see if that helps the temps. The batterys and the quark were barely warm. I can remember what that relates to, cold batteries and esc and hot motor, thought it was overgearing?

The clutch is hot because you are probably over geared, my Revo is setup 18/36 and my clutch never went above 120. Granted I am running a 9XL and you are using a 7XL, but still. Are your clutch shoes in the leading position? This will help a lot with the temps and the feel. As far as comments about this being a money issue I don't think so. A year of R&D from a company based around performance and durability shouldn't yeild a more cost effective product. Also using this setup takes a lot of pressure of off the electronics and keeps temps down, maybe people like a more direct feel, if that's the case go into the programming and adjust the throttle curve to be punchier. But coming out of a turn with this setup is super smooth and feels right.
Finally, if this isn't your cup of tea, then so be it. Skeptisism is understandable and who doesn't like to be an armchair engineer but no reason to bash on a new idea.

Actually I am running an aveox 36/30/1.5, very similar to a 2000kv L can feigao. I am running it on 5s lipo and am geared 15/40. I can go lower to a 14t clutchbell, but that is it. Other than that I can put the close ratio gearset in to lower the top speed. I will try it out again tonight and see hoow it runs. I have a feeling that the talons that I have on it are worn out and have too much sidewall play. This is causing some interesting high speed wandering/flips!

I also agree that being skeptic is ok, but until someone has tried out this setup for themselves it is hard to pass final judgement on it. It may be different but it seems to work well. I am just having trouble remembering that I do not have reverse!

Huh, I got the motors mixed up. Maybe if you drop down to a 4S pack, then your gearing may feel a bit better, and help out with the overheating clutch. Good luck!

Nice Revos there!

Not to rag on you too much about the clutch thing, but not only is it a waste of power, but before the clutch kicks in, you are running the motor unloaded, which is bad.

It kicks in pretty quick, and once it engages you're not really losing anymore power, but I understand what you are saying. Also that unloaded spin up I believe will lower the amp spikes, plus your motor doesn't have to brake so that should save some power. I plan on doing a comparison with eagle tree records sometime this month, direct drive/motor brake vs clutch vs direct drive mech brakes. I know there are benefits to each but I'm really interested in some hard data. Hopefully I'll be able to get together with riceman and do this at Palomar Raceway.

I ran it again and the clutch stayed much cooler this time, maybe it needed to be broken in? Anyway it ran fine, and I must have a decently effecient system. My run last night lasted about 15mins and I pulled 1550mah from my 5s pack according to the charger. So a 5000mah pack should get me near 45mins of runtime!!! Not sure if it will but I will try to do an long run and see how it fares. Have to do some repairs as the inside pinion bearing in the rear diff lost is balls and it locked up the rear ring and pinion. It was a used truck when I got it and it had a big block in it too, so I am not suprised. Luckily the guy included a new set of diffs for me!!!

Oooh, I HATE it when that happens. :lol:

It happens, what can you do?!:lol:

Anyway, ran the revo again, for about 40 mins total till the batteries started to fade. Temped everything and the motor was 135f, quark 115f, and the batteries were about 115f. The clutch was cool enought to touch, so I guess that it was wearing in when it was hot, and now seats better and is staying cooler. I am very happy with the temps, so I may leave the gearing where it is. I need to scare up a body for it, looking at a proline f450 body, they look cool. I may go thru it and change out the axles and the dust covers on the pivot balls as they look a little worn. Otherwise very happy with the conversion, and well worth the 130 I paid for it. I will install the sway bars next and see how they do. I may also mount the quark directly to the esc plate to act as a heatsink. All of my equipment is working well, and I would recommend any of it as high end.

Wow, that is awesome runtime. The higher voltage is really where it's at. I guess Iget about 20 min on my 9XL, MM, and 4S 5000 mah combo (have yet to really time it), and you're doubling it, with a higher kv motor! That motor is probably more efficient and that helps but even so, wow.

I was suprised at the runtime too. I have the other revo with a center diff and a 7xl and it gets about 25 mins on the 4s 5k batts. I need to gear it down, it has 20/40 gearing, may go back to the 20/46 as I found some spare spurs lying around. I also have 4 3600 2s lipos that I will make 2 7200 2s packs out off. They are longer than the 5k packs, so the emaxx trays will have to go and some other type of tray fabricated.

lincpimp,
Glad you're liking the conversion. That is some seriously great run time. Your temps look great too. Sounds like you got the clutch thing figured out. Like Matthew_Armeni suggested, make sure the shoes are in the leading position. The clutch shouldn't really get over 130-140f unless there is some other issue.

On the gear mesh choices, if you want a taller ratio, just use a smaller spur gear. You should be able to fit a 17/36 or even an 18/36 in there.

Brian-G, Serum,
I understand the skepticism, but until you've driven it, it's hard to see the benefits of using a clutch system. It actually costs more for us to produce the kit to use the clutch, because there are more parts to produce. Once set up, there is little if any maintenance that needs to be done to the clutch. I'm speaking from over a year of testing experience and results.

BTW, I may have mentioned before, but the slipper clutch is not the same thing as using a nitro clutch. A slipper is a simple friction/threshold setup – no slipping at low RPM, the more power or RPM, the more slippage and heat. A centrifugal clutch on the other hand is quite the opposite – slipping at low RPM, the more power the less slippage, to a point of course. Only under extreme power will the clutch bell begin to slip again, which is perfect. You have the low end drivability, great traction, you still have awesome acceleration and mid range punch, as well as a little protection under extreme load. It’s a different driving profile and much better suited for larger vehicles.

Our goal wasn't to save every last bit of rotational mass for a straight line speed run, the goal was to create the best driving experience for an electric MT, on or off the track. That said, there is no question that it will keep up with any Revo or other electric MT down the straight.

It seems you've already made up your mind about it, but now you know some of the reasoning behind why we developed the kit the way we did.

Yep set the clutch up as the instructions specified. I think that it got hot the first time due to running it right at the engagement point to see how well it crawled! I ran it again today and it ran very well. I need to make some final wiring adjustments and fit a body to it. Then I can really bash it and see how it does.

Update on the Slipperential Revo
 

Ok, did a few things to the revo with the center slipper/diff. I had Artur (griffinru) mod a MM for me. He did the stage 1 mod. So I put that in and added a ccbec. Got rid of the chinese crap bec that was causing some interference. I also bought a pair of trakpower lipos to replace my maxamps 5k 2s packs. Well I can say that the trakpower packs put out a lot more juice than the maxamps packs did. I ran the truck as it was, same everything except the new lipos. Big difference. Then I swapped in the modded MM and the new bec. Steering improved thanks to the ccbec. The modded esc is also smoother and runs much cooler, 25deg f at least. I can now say that I need to put some thicker fluid in the center diff, as the front tires grow to nearly double size on hard acceleration. Good stuff!

I also have a hacker 7xl motor coming for this truck, we will see the difference in power and temps between the two. I also feel like I can gear it down slightly, as the top speed is a bit too fast. I will do that before swapping in the hacker and see how it goes.

I can definately say that trakpower lipos are superior to the maxamps, and the same price. And griffinru's mods are well worth the price too! Plus the ccbec is superior to the generic becs in performance and the adjustability is nice. I have 6 of the ccbec in various vehicles and have no complaints.

I have two of the CCBEC's. I'm very pleased too.

Nice Linc! Sounds like you got some play time today too. :yipi:

I'm sure this Revo is quite a sight to see run.

The revo is nuts, it will wheely from a standstill, and it must be doing at least 45mph on the top end, maybe more. It handles great with the center diff too. I am actually thinking of remaking may side plates in kybex and bending the sides up to offer some more battery protection. I also need to add a gasket to the center diff as it is slightly leaking! I am very happy with this setup and can't wait for the hacker motor to come in, think of the power!

Are you using stock diffs in this?

What diff gear ratio ya got there?

Stock diffs, and I am the third owner, after mailman and metalman, who built most of the truck. According to him he never had a diff issue, and put it to the fact the center diff takes the load off the heavily loaded diff, under acceleration and braking. It works well, all I had to do was play with the center diff mounts and make it work better.

I ran the same front/rear diffs the WHOLE time when I had that truck, and even I got that truck used... It did handle well, but seeing as I never set up the suspension at all (and admittedly never changed the shock oil), it could have done better. The "slipperential" has a ratio of 2.2:1 (44t spur, 20t pinion, unless linc changed it).

With 100k oil, a wing (black Hellfire wing + Tekno wing mount), and extended wheelbase arms it could easily wheelie and sometimes flip over, but the front tires still got HUGE.

With another Revo in my possession that is still nitro, I have contemplated various conversion methods. There's the "slipperential" (I quote it because that word belongs to Mike IMO), center diff only, stock tranny (a route I would never take), direct-drive to diff outrunner, and this new dual-outrunner electronic diff idea I have thought of.

How about a center diff with an outrunner with a pinion directly driving the diff, kind of like a truggy? On 5s an 800kv outrunner would do, with 20/46 gearing. Just an idea, I may try it out if i have enough parts to do it.

That setup has definitely crossed my mind (44t spur + 20-25t pinion), but I don't think any motors powerful enough for that setup have a high enough kv (bigger the motor, the lower the kv).

Check this out: Century 650a Plus

It looks to be just the right motor, even has a 5mm shaft. It weighs more than the axi 4120 motors, and they are good enough to do direct to diff.

Yes! Those are the ones that I've been wondering about!! :yes:

They look tough and wound for power!

Find me a good price on that 800kv model and I will make a new revo to run it. I have at least 1/2 of the parts to make a revo, maybe more!

I only have about 6 unfinished vehicles, so I need a new project! LOL

I'll keep looking. :yes:

I wouldn't mind finding me a good lsp roller at a good price. :whistle: LOL

Take a look at this motor:

http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...roducts_id=312

I think it has potential for an E maxx placement. Similiar to how I'm running the AXI 2826/10 through the transmission.

It mounts the same as a 550 motor (25mm spread). I just received an email response from Lucien over there. He says they are rated for 6S lipo! :yes: