GorillaMaxx GR3 Help needed
 

Im having issues mounting the rear bulks to the bottom plate.
When I attach the 2 top plates to the bulks everything on top lines up properly.
On the bottom, the bulk holes dont line up on the bottom plate. Its almost like the bottom plate is not long enough.

If I do it the other way and line up the bulks to the bottom holes the drive shaft james and wont let the rear bulks slide forward enough to line up.
If I remove the rear drive shaft, and do line up the bottom plate holes to the bulk, then the top plates are to long.

Either Im having a really bad time trying to read the directions and have grossly mis-built this thing or the bottom plate is not proper.

Is there anyone out there that could measure up the total length of their rear bottom plate and post it for me or see anything Im doing wrong in the photos?


Thanks,
-Ed


Top view

http://fasteddy.smugmug.com/photos/220924440-M.jpg


Bottom view.

http://fasteddy.smugmug.com/photos/220925850-M.jpg

Side view


http://fasteddy.smugmug.com/photos/220924772-M.jpg

rear skid
 

The rear skid is supposed to have a bend in it to match the bulk's anti-squat - yours looks like it does NOT have this bend. I suspect this is the problem. The best bet is to contact GorillaMaxx directly for resolution(or bend the plate yourself). sales@gorillamaxx.com is the email address.
Your not crazy, Ed. :)

Oh...and welcome to the RC-Monster forums. :)

I have sent 3 e-mails to them in the last 3 days with no response.

Could someone post a side shot of the chassis so I can make the bend.
If possible take a measurement from either the front or the rear of the plate to where the bend starts and a measurement of the rise on the bend so I can rectify the issue.

Thanks for the quick reply. Im looking forward to getting this project underway again.

-Ed

Dont know me well do ya :mdr:

Is that black anodizing or paint?

Ano BABY!
Im going to "Murder Out" this build as much as possible.
I have always wanted to do an all black build of something and this project lent itself to the task.

The truck will be an On-Road racer and our Shop Demo for the conversion. The better it looks the more we can sell.

I also have a few other bling and function mods in mind.


Any one have the measurements and or side photos?

Well today marks the 4th e-mail sent to Gorilla for help with no response. I hope everything over there is OK.

I measured looked pondered the lint in my belly button and took a stab at bending the bottom rear brace. At this point the holes come closer to lining up and I can get screws into them. Im not pleased with the way they line up but its better then it was I guess.

Now this brings on 2 new issues.

First one is that now the rear drive shaft doesn't fit. It buts up end to end in the cups and binds the drivetrain.

2nd issue is the top plates are bowing. When I mount the 2 screws in the back of the top rear plate connect them in the middle with the proper length screw and nut there is a good 1/2 inch that the front top plate needs to go down to meet the froward bulk mounting holes through the shock brace. When I put the screws in and tighten them down it causes EXTREME pressure on the rear plate screws and the front plate screws causing a huge bow in the top plate assembly.

Should there be a bend in the forward top plate as well?

I have built 25-30 RCs or more in my life and this kit so far either is taxing my building abilities. Im grossly misunderstanding it or there is something wrong with this particular kit.

It frustrates me even more that there is no help at all so for from the manufacture. Dont get me wrong Im not trying to put down the company but communication is a key issue and so far there is none.

Are there any forum members out there that have built this kit and are willing to spoon feed me some help to figure out if its me or the kit that is having issues?

I would truly appreciate some one on one help and would be grateful for someone to help me see the light here.

Keep in mind you retain the rear skid, which you don't have in the pictures.

Are you talking about the 4 stand offs?
2 short and 2 long that go from the bottom plate to the bulks?
The photos were taken many days ago when I first discovered the issues. I hand fit most parts, look, look again then look before I do anything.

I have had the spacers on and off 20-30 times now as well as all the other parts on the ass end in the last 4 days. Something isnt right and I dont know what it is.

I have bent the rear plate to what I believe is the proper position. It did HELP get the hole on the bottom closer to where they should be but they are not as precise as the rest of the kit so far. The drive shaft also jams and the top plates are under huge pressure with a bow in them once screwed down.

Thanks for the keen eye on the spacers but there is something else going on here.

do the slots in the drivecups bind with the crosspins or does the round part of the bone bind?

With the earlier edition of the revo you needed to mount up the bulks to the plates first, and then mount it onto the chassis. And yes, there was tension in them.

It's not a perfect 1:1 bolton/fit. It needs some attention.

The front lines up perfectly, but the rear was more of a puzzle. My guess is that if your lower skid was bend it would have been less of a problem. The kickup is actually the other way around, it's more of a kick-down

don't bend the rear brace plate, you just miss forget put 6x14 spacers "B" .
check instructions, you will find it.

I think the problem is that your factory rear skid isn't on. I'm pretty sure it uses the rear skid to keep the the suspension pins in.

I will check all of this tonight.
Thanks guys!

BINGO

Im happy to say it was all me and not the kit.
Not sure how I missed it, why I missed it or why it never caught my attention after reading the directions MANY times but I was trying to install it without the skid plate. I only moved the damn thing out of my way 10 times or more

Ive been Squeefd
Good eye!:great:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/cust...vatar157_7.gif
and humbled all at the same time.

Thank all you gentlemen for your help.
A picture and a 1000 eyes are priceless.
Where is the donate button?

I'm surprised Mike or Serum didn't see it. I don't even one...:whistle:

I got a lot more built on it last night while the rest of the world was sleeping. Feels good to finally be moving forward on this build.

How could I have been so stupid :tongue:

To be fair, the instructions dont show the Revo front and rear ends, only the chassis parts, so I can see how you got confused.

It happens to all of us. A similar situation for me with RC18T diffs. I ahd to redo them once and kept forgetting the balls that go in on one end and could not figure out why the tension could not be corrected at all for the slip. All they did was bind....took them apart like 10 times and read the instructions even more! Sometimes having a few sets of eyes is needed.

Im getting a little further on my build.
Still hanging for some more black parts to get here.

http://fasteddy.smugmug.com/photos/222841945-M.jpg

http://fasteddy.smugmug.com/photos/222842765-M.jpg

Looking very very nice!

wow, that really is completely black! i love it!!

edit: wait... your work area is MUCH too clean and organized!

Good work Squee!

I expected he did read the manual for a small bit.. :)

Looks nice Eddy!!!! :yes:

Sweet.

Wow, talk about your BlackedoutRevo...

Not only did I read it, and read it, and read it, I also sat on it hoping it would be closer to my brain and absorb osmosis style. After that, I just gave up and used page one to roll a fatty.

Got my tires glued on last night 40 series street tires with 23mm hubs. Other then that Im still hanging for my Black (CF) toe links to come in. Once they get here its a lot of little tweaking and detailing issues before I install the electronics.

Just picked up a Hitec 5990TG Servo. I wonder if it will have enough torque?
:eyes: 417 oz .14 sec @7.2v :eyes:

I want a video of this monster!!!:mdr:

Do you mean the 5995? In either case, should be fine with the torque.

No, its the new 5990.

Ah, then you should still be fine. :)

That question is like asking if a sledgehammer has enough power to knock in a panel pin :lol:

The 5990 has 5 times the stock power of most MT servos, a very good choice :yes:

Btw I love the build, looking forward to seeing more!

MIP makes black revo shock bodies.

Those shock bodies are worse than anything. They don't really help at all. They hurt. You have to run MUCH heavier oils because the pistons aren't big enough.

I researched them and didn't hear good things about them.
I did however ano the stock tubes. If anyone is thinking about doing the same dont try. The threads on the tubes got pitted beyond use during the process.

I do plan on using some model paint on the exposed parts of the tubes or not depending on the ride height I have to use. Going all black is fun but I dont want to loose any quality of function. I will be racing it this spring.

Do you mean the bore is too big causing the pistons not to fit as they should? I dont understand.

Yes. Exactly the problem with them.

This is the word on them. Many have complained about the fit.
A secondary effect of the larger tubes with the sloppy fitting pistons is shaft slop that causes perpetual leaking.

One of my buddys said that if they leaked any more then they do he would need to get them a shot of penicillin. :rofl:

Thanks guys I will return mine good thing I didnt open them.
Fasteddy, who is your anodizer?

We have a local guy here that does a good job.
Look in your local phonebook. Its common to have at least one shop if not more locally. If you cant find one talk to a local machine shop. They know whos good and who isn't.

A lot of shops will offer stock colors only. If your looking for custom colors some places will do it but it gets expensive. My stock black job cost 70.00 per rack. Everything fit on one rack. This included stripping. You can also specify a HARD ano if you want its thicker and may cause some tight screws. I was concerned about the shock tubes so I just had a standard job done. If I had know the shocks were going to be unusable, I would have left them out and had a hard job done.