MGM 16018 Cutting out at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle
 

G'Day I have just finnidhed installing a NEU 1515/1D motor in my Jato.
The Controler is a MGM 16018.

I am not sure if I am missing something, but when I reach about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it just cuts the motor off.

Everthing is running nice and cool so there are no over heating problems.

I am only running 3s Lipo 5000mah batteries. Yet to try it out with 8000mah.

Doese anyone have any ideas on what is happening and how to go about getting full throttle out of it?

Any information is appreciated.

It might be the low voltage kicking in. You did set it on Lipo instead of nimh mode?

Hello,
i've got the same with a 22418 and 1521/1d with flightpowers 4900 4s,
the only way for me to solve the problem was to put the controller on "low rpm" mode or "race mode"; don't know if the problem comes from a bug of the controller, or if it's just
that the voltage of the battery falls down under high loads (in this case my solution wouldn't be recomanded).
Let us know the results if you try with bigger batteries...

Yea it is set up for 3s Lipo.
The battery was fully charged.
It will run at half throttle no worries, It is just when you give it full throttle the motor cuts out.
Bring it back to half throttle or less and it is away again.
It sounds a bit strange. Just thought I might of missed something in my programing.
(Programing by transmitter)
I have it programed to cut the motor off at low voltage but the battery still has 11.7V left in it.

Any more ideaa are appreciated.

I still suspect either the LVC (11.7V isn't exactly a fully charged 3S lipo pack) or a poor connection between the motor/controller.

things i would do;

-disable the LVC (what brand of batteries are you using?)
-Check the connections between the motor/speedo
-Check to see if the transmitters EPA is set to 100 percent
-reprogram
-try a separate receiver pack
-try a different radio

what does it do if you go from 0-full instantly? do you experience the cut-off too?

Yes, I would disable the BEC for testing. If that works, set it for 9v. 11.7v is too high for 3s.

Thanks for the info.
I have it set for 9v cut off. the battery is at 11.7V only because I have been running around with it for a while trying to figure out what was going on.
Fully charged they are about 12.6V from memory.

The battery is a maxxamp battery.
I get the same problem if I go from 0- full throttle slowly or stright away.

I have just ben going over my instructions again last night.
It appears that I have missed a step in the programing ( programing by transmaitter)
Apparently I have to set the Automatics tunning when I have done everthing else.
It tells be to run the car at full throttle for a least 2 seconds.

Could this be the problem why I am not getting full throttle?

I can't try it out today as it is raining. will have to wait untill it clears up a bit.

Sounds like a LVC issue to me. You could always reprogram. Try it set to 6V and see if it works. The fact that it stops doing it in "race-mode" where all safeties are off tells you its a safety feature kicking in, and I don't think its a current limiter w/ your setup.

I have the 16018, and found it will trigger the LVC early. I also have found that doing the auto tuning does help minor issues like this.

Finnester, you suggested to set it to 6v, how can you do that on the 16018? The only options we have is reduce speed, cut off and race mode.

You have to have some sort of settable cutoff. Option F isn't it for that one?

These are the docs for the 16018.

I actually had thought I could set the LVC voltage and the BEC voltage, but you can't.

I ended up getting an external BEC, from castle and set it to 6v.

I still wish the LVC didn't cut out so soon. When I have it set to Cut Off, I used my voltage meter and I had @ 3.84 Volts per cell.

I wonder if when I run 5S, could I set battery type to 6S? Is that just used for the LVC?

Thnaks for the info again.
I haven't set it to race mode as yet.
At the moment it is set on motor cut off when low voltage. ( should cut off at 9v) I think.

When you said to set it up for 6v to see what happens do you mean to set it up for 2 lipo instaed of the 3 lipo setting that i have it at now?

i think it's the LVC.. (where did i heard that before)

The thing is, you can't set the LVC volt on the 16018, not the BEC voltage.

Thanks for all you help.

I have set it to Racs mode and it has solved all the problems.

Running nice and cool and right up to full throttle without any dramas.

Thanks again.
Appreciated.

NP, but you may want to get a separate LVC in the future. You can run the lipos lower than you mean to fairly easy, and they are an expensive investment to ruin. Too bad the on board one didn't work a bit better for you.

In race mode, you don't have any LVC i think:gasp:
But in "batterie type", just set it to 4 li-po, and the controler will set the LVC automatically.

If I set it to 4 Lipo won't it cut out at 12V?

I am only running 3s

I take it then that in race mode it will basically keep on going untill the battery in dead flat. ( no 9v cut out)?

I think you should put the esc in "reduce rpm" mode: safer for you battery and no problems for full throttle.

I tried today to set the battery type higher then that actually battery type, and it doesn't work. So, if you have 4S you have to set it to 4s.

If you set it to Race Mode, I would like to know what happens once the LVC kicks in? Does it rev up?

If you set the cutoff higher, then the motor will cutout even sooner. You can set it to lower # of cells, but at that point why bother? Running a 3S lipo down to ~6v (2S setting) is bad.

As said, race mode disables all safeties. No LVC, no motor power reductions, nothing. Its the "its in your hands, be careful not to break it" setting.

You want some sort of safeties, if the LVC @ 3S cuts out on you to early, you may need better batteries to a more flexible external LVC.

Too bad the maxamps packs are not delivering the power you need; you might contact Jam on this forum to help you out.

Have you got an eagletree that can monitor your packs voltage?

the better the battery, the more it will be able to hold the voltage under a high load.

The race-mode might seem to help you out, but it's not a solution. You might be able to drive it, but it's killing the lifetime of your pack.


Like Finnster said; if you run the LVC at 4S on 3S pack, it works the other way around; it's better to put it to 2S than to run it in race mode. Both are not adviced though. They pack you are using is not up the task, perhaps Jason from maxamps can help you out.

good info!!

what batteries do you think will not dip in voltage like this?

Perhaps there is just a bad cell in that pack, i don't know. It might help if the pack is fully charged. What is the outside temp? the colder it gets, the lower the voltage of the packs under load.

Enerland cells have the tendency to keep their voltage very well.

Polyquest, Hyperion, flightpower are a few that come to mind.

i dont think its the battery it might help to get a pc link for the controller. that way you can see how many amps your pulling.