RC8 Brushless
 

Here are some pics. It's in the experimental stage right now. It's a lot faster then the gas cars. The control is not as good as the gas car yet, but it's a lot of fun.:) It takes a lot of trial and err to set the speed controler for your application.

It's the exact weight and ballance as the RC8 gas car full with fuel. 3750g . I raced it for the first time last night. I finished mid pack.

***** Update****
I think I figured it out!
The speed controler is not easy to program. I have attaced my settings. This is going to very depending on your setup.
It's working awesome! I can't wait untill the next race.

Specs:
MaxAmps 4000mah 6s 22.2v = My run time is about 25min.
RC-Monster Electric motor mount
RC-Monster Battery tray
Motor = NEU 1512 2.5df
RC-Monster Pinion = size - mod1 -5mm : 16 tooth hardened steel / with 46 tooth ??? still working on getting the right gear but it's good.
Speed Control= MGM TMM160183sHCS01
Home made speed controler bracket. I use alumm. angle.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...ndle/RC8_1.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...ndle/RC8_2.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...m_setings1.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...m_setings2.jpg

Wow, that is one nice truck you have got there. Nice job on it!! :smile:

Very nice job! The lay out, and wiring are soooo clean!

Good work!

You-hoooooooooooooo!!!!! I'am thinking to keep mine and not sell it!!!

The only missing thing is the RCM motor mount.

What's about your motor and ESC temps??? I can see in your MGM programming page that max ESC temps are 58 C, = 136.4 F, not a little high??

thats sick

good job, its a very clean install.

Woah, 6s Lipo through a 1512 2.5D/F? And I thought my 1512 2.5D/F was enough on 4s Lipo... For a second I forgot the RC8 has a truggy diff ratio, which threw me off (I'm using a 14t pinion on my Hyper 8 with the 2.5D and 4s Lipo).

It doesn't surprise me that your buggy is faster than the nitro buggies, your top speed should be about 45mph. 25mins of runtime at that gearing is very good!

EDIT:
Would you mind if I (or anyone else) copied your method of securing the Deans plug?

Looks good. I like what you did with the esc dean plug, much neater looking than the wires in my car.

loooks great, i like the simple white paint scheme (not being sarcastic) it just looks clean and simple. Is the esc's end of that deans connector mounted soild in that black plate to where it holds it for you? is that for quick battery changes or something along those lines?

Yes, the black plastic plate holding the deans plug is for quick battery changes. I also used Velcro to hold the body on to make the battery change faster. I have quit using the clips.

How the Dean is hold to the black plastic plate?? with CA glue??

I made the hole where only the wires would fit through. Then I used two plastic zip ties on the back side.

Good, thank you!
Do you use a separate UBEC or you use the internal one from the ESC?

That is a super tidy setup, I like it alot.

I'm using the internal BEC on the ESC.

that is a very nice ride there...

I have reinstalled the old mechanical brakes back on the front. I have test driven it around on the street. It's awesome. The MGM controller is not consistant in braking. That is why I went back to the mechanical brakes on front. It also gives me braking bias. The back is controled from the ESC. I'm also installing a smaller motor Neu 1509/1.5Y. It's too fast @ 22.2 volt. The smaller motor will be lighter and just as fast as this one at 14 volts. I will post a new picture soon. I will let you know how it turns out.

Huh? How do you figure that your motor brakes only control the rear wheels of the vehicle?

Ok, maybe I wasn’t clear. The ESC brakes both front and rear. I set the ESC to light breaking. Then you can put more braking on the front with the servo mechanical brake. That gives you braking bias front vs. back.

Very clean lay out, hope mine comes out as nice.

any pic's with the front brakes?

Ah, I understand now.

Here is a photo of the front brakes that I installed.
I used a Futaba S3155 Digital HS Slim Servo.
So far it's working great.You must have brake mixing on your radio.
I would have installed the rear also, but the brake disk and the motor hit each other.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...dle/rc8_br.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...le/rc8_br2.jpg

Looks good, thats a very clean looking setup

Ok, here are my final thoughts after 6 weeks of testing. I probably will not do anymore updates on this thread. I might post a video if I can get it together.

The batteries are the right size and weight for my car “4000mah 6S 22.2 volts”. I had one Maxamps battery fail. It got damaged from not having a full bumper plate on the front side of the battery when a car endos. Make sure you completely support your batteries. Maxamps batteries are not the toughest. I plan on continuing using these batteries. The battery temp was 98F after a 20 to 25 min run

The MGM controller is adequate. It’s not the best performing controller, but right now there is no other that meets the specifications for this application. The breaking and neutral zone are inconsistent and a little hard to control. It is not a professional level controller. It’s a good sportsman class controller. I will be very competitive with it. I’m still looking for a better controlling ESC or a software patch for this one. The ESC temp was 140F after a 20 to 25min run.

The Neu motor is very good. Probably the best part of the conversion. At first I thought it was too fast. It is to fast until you change your throttle EPA “End Point Adjuster” down to around 80%. I would not use a smaller motor because this one heats up after 25min of run time. It’s very fast for a short time and will run at 1.39hp continuous use. If you start running longer the 30min you might run into heating problems with this motor. It’s a great motor and I will continue using this motor. My gearing end up at 15/46. The motor “Neu 1512 2.5df” temp was 165F after 20 to 25min run.

The RC Monster conversion kit was very good. The servo tray took a little grinding to make it fit. You will need a Dremel for this project, especially for making the ESC and brake mounts.

Final word. This type of project is not for the faint of heart. It takes a lot of work.
It just might be easer to run Nitro. In the future there will be more complete kits. This is probably worth waiting for if you are not into doing a big expensive project. Now that it is done, I’m really going to enjoy it. It’s been a fun experience for me and I’m happy with the results.

Ref info

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/sh...5&goto=newpost

RC8 Brushless Video!

Sorry, the lighting was not good.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=B04N35U_ZOc


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Car looked very neutral, and your driving isn't that bad!

What weights are you running in your diffs?

Sparky I have to admit. Im not a big associated, RC8 fan since Losi is my favorite company but wow this is an acception. Great job! :great:

Diffs are 5000/5000/5000

Very Nice:yipi:

Wouldn't the esc and motor run cooler if the motor was at full throttle? So wouldn't a slower motor work better?

The heat is from run time build up. A smaller motor would get hotter. A larger one would run cooler, but weight more and get shorter run times. I chose this one for weight and run time ballance. In the summer time I might run a Neu 1515 2.5df. keep in mind, I'm not using any fans or vents on the body yet. I will be playing with that in the future.

Sorry, i was thinking a lower kv not the actual size

Yes, I think a 1512 1,5y would work a little better. I would have bought that one, but there was not any in stock.