What parts are need to get my e-maxx BL?
 

i know it's going to take a LOT of money but i'm planning on making my stock e-maxx Brushless.:yes: and after a bit of looking and talking to some ppl on another forum i think it's posible:yipi: i plan on getting a 8XL motor9suggested by BOR, aka BlackedOutRevo) and my rustler allready has a Mambamax system in it so i'll use that ESC(i'll probably use velcro or something to be able to move it back and forth), or at least till i can get another one. I also will be using 2, 6 cell NiMh batts sence i only have one 2s trackpower and i will not have enough money to get another and buy all the nessesary stuff for the car.
Man, when i first got my rustler brushless, i dreamed of a BL e-maxx but i never thought i'd ever get enough money to do so.

So i have a few questions about some of the parts needed to make it BL:

1. a coupler for the tranny(is that all i need for the tranny?) and where can i buy it?
2. diffs, a friend gave me links to some diffs on ebay but that were labled as front t-maxx3.3 diffs. are the front and the rear diffs the same? and, can 3.3 diffs fit perfictly in all the 2.5 parts on my e-maxx?
3. i've got links to all the stuff i need on ebay to do the 3.3 conversion but after i added the total for shiping and everything it was about $110. but my question is, would it be cheaper or as cheap to get some CVD's/dogbones strong enough to handle the 8XL. If so, were could i find them?
4. will i need an alum spur gear?

p.s. this is my first post here but not on rc forums.

Thanks

hey whatsup welcome to the forums.

it seems like you know most of what you need to make this BL but ill try and answer your questions.

1. are you talking about the idler?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...03idler&cat=17
2.maybe these will be better
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=17
3. i would say to not get cvds... get the 3.3 driveshafts as those are PLENTY strong.
3. (you have two number 3s. lol) you dont need a aluminum spur just be sure that you have a good mesh and you will be fine.

Thanks for the wellcome and info!
1. i think that my friend means something elts other than the idler but i'm not sure. as soon as he logs in he should clarify that.
2. i know that those diffs would be real good but i'm not even $100 sure i can get my e-maxx BL in the first place so i'm going to haft to go with cheaper diffs.
3. the thing is that the 33 shafts wan't fit well in my e-maxx with all those stock parts. so..i could eather get all the parts($100-110 worth of parts) to convert all the arms and everything to run well with the 3.3 shafts or i could just get the CVD's and be done.
3. i changed it to a four now lol my bad. and thanks. i didn't know if the plastic spur would hold up to to BL motor or not even with good mesh.

you should be able to get the 3.3 stuff for well under 100.00
where in N.C. are you?
phil

i'm around the hickory area. if i told u what city exactly the i lived in u would not know where it was.

Sure I would I live in Hickory.. LOL
phil

ok then, do u know where connelly springs is? or what about Icard?

yep.. WE have nothing for hobby shops huh? we need a decent place.
phil

Welcome Steve! =)

I know you can buy the G maxx coupler, and not the whole kit, its a rip off IMO, and I know I saw someone selling just the coupler to lock it into 2nd, which is what I meant, but he needs a idler also...


The links came from suicide neil, I didnt find them lol, I say get the new emaxx diffs, they seem to be doing fine with the guys over at traxxas, someone have a pletty on 4s in his with no probs...... IDK for sure tho

I recommend the strobe slipper kit, as you will just melt the stock spurs....

BOR: thanks and what do u mean by i'll melt spurs? u meant the clutch will get hot or that the motor will strip them?

yea really. i go to Lelands trains and plans for all the parts i don't order on the net. and the hickory hobby shop, i used to drop by thare every now and then but i never bought anything thare. but thay moved or went out of buisness recently, do u know what happened? thay used to be right in that little place where thay have the hickory festeval right beside the train tracks but thare not thare anymore.

The stock slipper is crappy, and it will slip with BL power.......

yea but what did u say about the melting spurs? u mean that the BL motor will strip them or thay'll melt after all the heat from the slipper? becouse when i first got my rustler with a LiPo and BL the clutch allmost burned my hand after the run b4 ti titened it to keep it from slipping.

The brushless motor is alot more powerful than stock motors, the stock slipper will slip to much causing the center of the spur gear where the two plates put pressure on it and cause friction; melting the spur gear...

Thanks:mdr:

that's what i thought he ment. i just about had that problem in my rustler(running a mm7700kv stem and a 2s trackpower LiPo).

so about what speeds could i see from this setup? i know that thare will be a ton of power.

ok i'm getting stuff one by one it seems. but i'm trying to help me hobbie shop out and keep it as cheap as posible. my lhs is a little more exspensive than ebay but the owner of the shop's a good friend of mine so i want to support him! so i'm haveing a little trouble thare.

other than that, i've got a few questions. 1. in order to install the 3.3 axle carriers, will i need to order part #5378? Link: http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_in...oducts_id=2109 2. and will i need the 3.3 turnbuckles too??

In order to use the 3.3 shafts, you need updated a-arms (easy to recognize by the slot they put in them in the center to give the fat shafts some clearance) knuckles, and the dustboots. and the turnbuckles/rodd-ends.

so why do i haft to get the dust boots? and i'm going to use 3.3 CVD's.

Well, they arent essential I suppose, but they keep dirt and small stones away from the pivotballs- helps prevent excessive wear and the slop that causes. As for the A-arms, you can save a bit of money by just dremeling some clearance onto them, in the indicated areas:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1001.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ture1006-2.jpg

The important things are the 3.3spec knuckles, turnbuckles (either from the new emaxx or the tmaxx3.3), and the CVDs. I'd also suggest some metal 14mm whell hexes, as the plastic ones flex and seem to be causing broken stub-axles. Drop the suspension low and add some stiffer springs, and you'll be ready to rock. Oh, and a good strong steering servo wont go amiss either, anything with over 250 oz/in of torque will do nicely.

these are named dudt boots too;
http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_in...oducts_id=2109

ok thanks a lot!
the cvd's, turnbuckles, and both diffs are on thare way and my lhs has the knuckles in stock so i just gotta go pick them up.

but where could i find the metel hex's??

Just about anywhere really- so long as they are 14mm & metal that is all that matters. If not your local LHS, then feebay or most online shops will carry some brand of 14mm hex- the ones for the savage, revo, maxx etc will all fit fine. The plastic ones are okay for a while, but once you start increasing the power, the retaining pin tends to shredd the inside of the hex, or the hex rounds out inside the wheel (as do metal ones if they arent tightend down fully). A larger hex like 17-23mm is best to prevent it from rounding out, but then you need an appropriate rim to go with the larger hex. Its all good fun....

ok thanks! i've never heard of feebay b4. or do u mean ebay? lol

LOL, yes Steve he means ebay:lol::na:

thought s

ok this is what all i have so far:
http://i26.tinypic.com/28by7t5.jpg

Good good. 3.3spec diffs are getting really cheap these days, which is always a good thing with BL power.

lol yea, i got these bran new, assembled by traxxas with oil and everything for like $20-25 i think