might get but got questions
 

I might ask my dad for a G2 X-Brace Aluminum Chassis from Gorilla Maxx
will it extend the truck and make it a little longer??
I wanna keep my truck's stock wheelbase
will MIP Center CVD's for the E-maxx work with the g2 chassis??

if i get the g2 chassis
wut would be the best way to protect the underside from scratches??


I am also thinking of asking for the g3 susp kit
but i can only ask for one


likes about g2 chassis are My electronics wont be so clumped up like right now on my stock maxx chassis

dislike bout it is the batteries are exposed on the sides from dirt and rocks that are hitting the batts that are coming from the front tires



likes about the g3 race susp kit are that it has many option of shock setting and wanna set my maxx as low as possible and the lowered shock towers looks nice and i can lower my body

dislikes about the g3 race susp kit is its a lil bit too much? 279.99$$ and also if i get the g3 how am i gonna protect the underside from scratches ??

thnx

nobody want to help me dicide??

The g2 chassis will extend your truck but only about 1/4inch. The mip cvds work with the g2. As far as scratches go. The only way i know is don't drive it. lol Stay out the gravel helps.

I went with the RPM wear plates underneath to help protect a bit but you wont elimate scratches.

ive been thinking..
will a sheet of thin lexan work??

and wut to ask for my dad first??
the g2 chassis or the g3 susp?

Shadow

I use associated chassis protection tape for the bottom of my cf gmaxx. It is a very very durable & sticky teflon type tape. It cost about $10.00 a sheet 1 sheet is more than enough for your truck.

thnx rchippie
ok now i need siggestion on which to ask for???
g2 chassis or g3 susp?

If you actually get one of them for free go for the chassis. More important and better handling imo.

k go for chassis
buh how do i protect my batts from rocks??

Shadow i would get the chassis first. check my eairler repliy on how to protect the bottom of your chassis & batteries. You can also lower your body as far as possible to protact them on the sides. You can also extend the sides of the body if needed. Ask mike for the pics of my gmaxx it has the sides of the body extended to protect the batteries.


If you are running BL i would get the extended chassis.

thnx rchippie
ima ask for the chassis when my dad is in a good mood...
and thats rare

I have the G3 suspension and the G2 CF Ext Chassis.

Both are solid, extended chassis or not, and worth the money in my opinion.

I too have the RPM skid wear plates for front and rear protection however the main chassis is exposed. No matter what you do it's going to get dirty/nicked up unless you leave it on the work bence like a museum artifact.....;)

I wanna get my g2 xbrace alrdy! but i have to wait for my dad
i ran my E-maxx 2day and it was Lock detecting sumthing but everything was fine no binding no nothing
check the wires nuthin again
check my spur and pinions... nuthin
i reporgrammed my HV and now it works


I want to make my batt side side by 7cells right now its shotgun 6cell with a 7thcell attached to the side...

if i rebuild my packs to 7cell side by side
wut stuff should i use??

i know i want to use deans ultra plugs
which jig should i use?
how bout wires?
which probars should i use??
which solder?
what is the best soldering iron?
i dunno anything else i need
if i missed anything please add

sorry for the many questions
but i dont wanna get the wrong/bad stuff cuz i dont have any money for mistakes

thnx:D

Ok here we go;

Battery Jig

Wire

Battery Bones

Solder

Soldering Iron

Deans

That's about it. I would recommand glueing the cell's together using a hot glue gun.

Make sure you have some flux, thats the most important part of soldering.

While we're at tower here...

Flux

Thanks Sneeck and Re~mix
can i use these?

deans 2 pin ultra $3.09(2)

Team Orion Battery Jig $8.59

instead of those orion bars can i use this?
Novak Battery Cross Bars $4.29(2)

Novak Lead-Free Silver Racing Solder $8.59

Novak Super-Flex 12 b/r 3" $14.79

Hobbico 60watt soldering Iron $5.99

and oh yeah the flux that Re~mix gave alink too
Trinity Rosin Flux $4.79

Those would work also. You got a hot glue gun? Cause if not you'd need one too. Get's a lot of load off the battery bar's which could come loose if the load is to much.

my mom has glue gun so im good

i jus calculated all it would cost me 55+ all in all but theres still tax

oh yeah my dad has a soldering iron its 25watt
will that work?

When soldering battery's you want to minimize the contact w/ the iron touching the cell's. The longer it takes to solder, the more chance there is the cell can be damaged.(cell's don't like heat) It might work nonetheless, you can try it. I'm using a 80 watt iron to solder my side by side pack's. Works beautifully and fast.

instead of the hobbico one do you think i should get a better one??
or stick with hobbico since its cheaper?
or should i get this one
Cold Heat Cordless Soldering Tool Classic
have you guys ever used this b4?
would it be good for the batts or not?
I dunno how to look :W:

Can't open the page, but i've heart it causes a "cold" solder joint which can pop loose. I'd stick with something what worked before.

heres a pic of it
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/13...75189924_4.jpg
and the link to its site
ColdHeat

Yes I know what it is from the titel.

Those 'cold heat' ones are crap for soldering anything decent. If you solder the cells well, I find that shrink wrapping the whole pack is more asthetically pleasing than glue. But either is good. Shrink wrapping takes a little practice, as if you hold the heat on the wrap too much, then it breaks, too little and it doesn't hold tight enough.

Honestly, I find the deans speed jig to be worth the extra few bucks, its really nice and easy to use. And, I don't know anyone running novak bars, so no idea if they are any good? Personally i run orion's, but that is just because they are the only ones that fit in a losi battery tray.

When soldering batteries for the first time be patient, it takes some practice and redoing. After a few tries though, it becomes easy. Have you read a "how-to" on it yet? If not, i suggest you do.

can you give a link to a how to?
I'll stick with the hobbico soldering iron if your saying ColdHeat is useless

The deans speed jig only holds 6cells i need ones that hold 7 cells

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl...ld_battery.asp
Here is a link to help you out. I tried the 60 watt hobbico. It did okay. I like the 100 watt iron much better. Does the job in less time and keeps batteries cooler.

Mike!
i might ask my dad for the g2xbrace chassis this weekend
jus a maybe heads up
if not maybe next week
i might ease him little by little

ugg this sucks
I'll ask my dad next time for the G2 chassis cuz right now hes not gonna buy me anything expensive

Whenever you are ready, Shadow. Also, I can supply all the mentioned items in this thread(solder,battery bars, wire, battery jigs etc.) if needed(most items are already listed). Make sure you use a good, HOT iron when soldering batteries. The longer the iron is on the battery, the greater thenchances of damaging the cells. I use a Hacco iron(cost $100, but is is the best soldering iron I have ever used-I can tin a cell in about 2 seconds).

Thnx Mike

gorilla chase .i use a bike tube to protect my ladder batterie packs