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Another FLM Conversion Build-Help
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I am finishing up my build, but as you can see in the pictures, I am having trouble with mounting the MGM! The 1521's wires are just over the ESC plate, so how do I mount the darn thing so it will fit? I even thought about soldering 5.5mm connectors onto the Neu at a 90 degree angle so they would point straight up. Please, any ideas would be greatly helpful.
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WOW that motor is huge!! Sorry can't help you... still awaiting my FLM conversion kit myself at this time.
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I would bend them so there facing up...... Seems like the best way if your going to mount your esc on the mount
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I say that's what you get for being a bastard:whip: and putting 1521 in the savage.
:no:(Jealous) |
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Turn the motor on the motor mount so the wires are on toward the bottom and they will go under the esc mount plate. Make sure you shrink wrap them good though just in case they touch the chassis TVP.
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Rotating the motor to position the wires down sounds like a good idea. It looks like you may run into some interference with the TVP though. Aren't the wires flexible? If so I would go with bending them and using heat shrink as BlackedOutREVO and jhautz said. Keep us posted on this. I am installing the same motor in my conversion. I give you total credit for figuring out the 1521 would fit, nice work....
Looks Awesome!! |
Mmmmm! Looks excessive. I like it!
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I've seen others solder on the connectors at a 90 degree angle to the wires with no problems, and that would keep it tight and clean looking, oh, btw, i'm also jealous
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Servo Pics
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Here are some pictures of the reverse servo for everyone who uses it, like me and.....well, like me. Also the steering and brake servos final install with the receiver. Sorry for the bad pictures, I cannot take an in focus close-up to save my life! Any hints for close-up pictures?*Edit: I followed Neil's advice and used macro mode. What a difference! Thanks, Neil!
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Macro mode (should be a little rose shaped symbol I think).
That thing is gonna haul ass like giant donkey.... |
Thanks for the pics knotted. Why is the brake servo raised so high up on those risers? I'm looking at my kit i just started assembling and it looks like it should be done without those risers? The risers look like upper shock mounts or something.
I REALLY wish FLM had included some sort of instruction sheet or at least an exploded viev. I feel like I am guessing what some of the parts are for. |
The servo is raised to clear the TVP's. The servo plate sits fairly low between the chassis plates. Fastlane has posted some instructions on their site. It is under the "How To" link.
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Thanks for the tip on the "how to" section. I hadn't spotted that. Very useful info there.
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Here is how I am going to do the ESC mounting. It gives some space and still protects the ESC from ground born debris. And if it doesn't, it will give me an excuse to buy the MMM!
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Also, for those who have asked about the electronics I'm using, here is the list:
Steering-Hitec 5955TG Brake-Hitec 645MG Reverse-Hitec HS-81 ESC-MGM 22418 Motor-Neu 1521/1Y (1577Kv) Battery-Neu 6S 5000mah and Flightpower 6S 5000mah (both fit!) Radio and receiver are the Futaba Fasst 2.4Ghz 3 channel. The tranny is a 3 speed with the plastic 44t gear replaced with a hardened steel Hot Racing gear. Diffs are the aluminum case ones with steel pin inserts. Ring and pinion are the new HPI ultra hardened steel (#86922). Starting out with a 52/20 spur-pinion ratio and working from there. |
You really went all out on this one, didn't you. :smile: It is looking great so far!! Nice job. Is it possible to run a full sized servo for reverse, or does only a mini servo fit? Also, what are the dimensions of the Neu and Flightpower 6s 5000mAH packs? Is it a really tight fit? Or is it possible to run an even bigger pack?
Thanks in advance for the answers. |
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This is like my dream savage....... How I wish I had money lol |
I think there are a few solutions for your problem;
one is to turn the motor so the wires face down, they solder on 4 (or 5.5's if they would fit) and solder them through their 90 degree hole. ( the 5.5's i've got have got holes through them at 90 degree) then use plastidip to seal them. the 4mm plugs (short types) would give you more room to start with. |
Serum, what I think I will end up doing is going to the LST shock conversion. With 8 of the stock type shocks, there is not enough room up top for the ESC. One LST shock mounted behind the rear tower will free up room.
Here are the max battery fit dimensions, as best I can measure:173mmX52mmX65mm. If your pack is under or at those dimensions it should fit. And believe me, a micro servo is all that will fit. |
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OK, finally got a good fit in the original ESC plate position. Used 5.5mm connectors and ran the wires under the plate. Everything is secure and its not as tight a fit as it looks. There is plenty of room between the caps and the motor (about 2 rch). Going to run the whole thing this evening and see how it goes. Oh, the padding under the ESC heatsink is some thermal CPU tape.
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It looks really good. I'm uploading pictures of my build now. I wont be able to run mine yet because I am waiting on the bullet connectors for the ESC. What do you think about the battery stops? I am concerned that with the packs (we have the same flightpowers) the little black ones will dig into and damage the battery during bashing. They do a good job of holding the battery snug though. I think I am going to make some sort of plate to attach to the forward most battery post to make a solid barrier. Keep us posted on how your run goes.
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I agree on the battery stops. I will be making some sort of plate for the front stop also. I can see nose diving a landing and having the lipo slam into the spur.... Not good. All the other stops I think will be fine.
As for not running until you get the connectors... I think I would direct solder the wires if that was the only thing stoping me from a test run.:wink: |
knotted,
I did some searching on thermal CPU tape. I was going to zip tie my heatsink directly to the mount because I liked the idea of the aluminum acting as a heatsink. Does this thermal CPU tape melt to the ESC? It sounds like a great idea allowing good heat transfer, better mounting and maybe a little cushion. Please let me know how that works out. |
You probably don't need the tape, but it just bothers me to put the ESC on with no padding. I figured if some padding is used it might as well transfer heat. There is almost no melting of the tape, the MGM never really gets hot enough. The heat sink fins just settle down into the tape a little bit and then stop. This helps keep the ESC in place a bit more securely. I have been using it this way on all my setups for about a year now and it works well.
For the battery stops, I am not sure what to do! Maybe a little foam rubber added to the stops? I hate to think of my $300 batteries buzz sawing into the steel spur! |
Hi,
I bought an Hitec HS-82MG micro servo for my reverse module but It's too long for the FLM reverse servo mount. Your HS-81MG has the same size as the HS-82MG. How do you mount it? Thank. |
Here is my battery stop I made, simple used some scrap CF I had and used 2 extra mounts from the FLM kit help up so far.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/7e94862e.jpg |
Hey man looks great :)
it looks very tight, but you may be able to squeeze that esc inside the tvp like mine - I have screwed it to the tvp with the threaded holes already existing in the heatsink.. Although my esc may be smaller and my motor clearly shorter... http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nics/ESC05.jpg but I have more room in there than you :) |
nice setup there. The mamba is a big esc for sure and yours looks small in there. The lipo im using tho fits fine and I can fit a longer one easily and maybe a tad wider would fit to. If I get creative one day might find a better spot of the esc. Been told myt lipo isnt a good choice so now when $$ permit I need a new one I guess :cry:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/3836b30f.jpg |
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