MIP CVDs for Rustler VXL
 

I am considering getting CVDs for my Rustler is there an improvement over the telescoping u-joint driveline?

I use MIPs on my Rustler, the only complaint I have is they don't use the stock wheel nuts and the ones that come with it are hard to get on. The shaft could also be a little longer because it doesn't quite reach the nylon in the locknut.

If you aren't killing the stock sliders, there is really no point in spending the money on CVD's IMO. It's not like they really add to performance, they only add strength if you need it.

True, I broke one of my out drives and I just replaced everything. I have seen metal out drives somewhere so that is another option.

Yep, these will help in some cases:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG59&P=7

I'm just a big fan of, it ain't broke, don't fix it. It's one thing to add parts that enhance performance or even looks. However, for something such as this, there's no real point unless you need the added strength.

I saw that the factory team T4 trucks were using MIP CVD's and it is what made me consider them. I have since changed my mind but have been wondering about using the Jato complete halfshafts on each side. Mainly, will they fit? I figure if they can hold up to the 3.3 power they should be fine for my VXL Rustler.

I use the the jato driveshafts and they handle 6s power just fine.

I remember with the tmaxx sliders, we just glued wood doweling inside to keep them from twisting... a sanded chopstick worked good

are the jato drivelines the same length or is a mod needed?

I've vowed never to buy MIP again. I bought an MIP ball diff for my mini-t a while ago and the outdrives were made of some rediculously soft metal. After 10 minutes running the cups had 'slots' in them where the dogbone cross pin touched. I sent several emails and they never answered any queries regarding this.

To top it off, the drive cups were far from standard so there was no substitute (That I could find) and the rebuild kits only came with ONE cup. So $15 for the diff, then another $20 in rebuild kits for every 10 minutes running I had. I think I figured out their marketing strategy... but instead of making me spend all my money getting new drive cups all the time :no: I just have vowed to never give my money for what i considered an utterly crap product. :grrrrrr:

Same length. The blue booth just rips with the crazy rpm's.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/DSCF2146.jpg