Lehner motor bearings
 

Anyone know of where I can get replacement bearings for my 1940 lehner?

They appear to be 4mm id by 9mm od and have a flange to hold them in place.

Thanks Jeff.

I have fixed the 1940 I got from you. I need to let the jb weld dry, and give it a test run. Main problem was that one of the magnet segments craked in half and seperated from the rotor. 3 strands of the windings were knocked loose and were interfering with the rotor, but were not cut through. I have moved them back into place, and re-epoxied the winding (not done very well by lehner).

Now the rear endbell, which appears to be held on by a crimped portion of the end of the can. Well it was not parallel to the front endbell, so the rear bearing was binding, bad enough to lock the rotor. And ruin the rear bearing.

Now I will test the motor with 2s lipo tomorrow, being around 1600 kv it will not spin fast, but should be enough to test it for operation and not work the rear bearing too much.

Now, may main question is: How difficult is it to turn the shaft on a lehner motor? I can turn this one by hand, but it does not spin as freely as a feigao motor. I have some novak and aveox motors and they feel more "notchy".

I think it depends on magnet strength? If you feel resistance but then it lock into place sort of, and move fast into place, then it should be fine, but if it's hard all the way through, then it's binding.

That is what I figured. It is hard to tell with the bad rear bearing. I will pick up a pair or new bearings to try out and see how it does.

Update, just ordered some bearings, bringing the total up to 52 bucks so far for this motor, hope it works!

Cool. I'm interested to hear how the reair job works out. What did you do to repair the cracked magnet segment? Not sure how you would get that to hold up to any kind of rpm once its cracked.


I just compared a brand new 1940/8 I have here against a brand new 8XL and they feel very similar as far as how the shaft spins by hand. The Lehner feels smoother. I can actually feel a little roughness in the Feigao. There is no notchy feeling while the Lehner turns.

I tried jb weld, we will see how it does. The segment was the 3rd one in from the pinion end of the shaft. I used jb weld on both sides of the remaining magnets, and on both halves. I assembled the damaged pieces and then rolled the rotor on my table top with some pressure to force the halves back together. The I taped it tightly and let is sit and dry. Hope it holds!

I wonder if Red Loctite would work for something like that?

The stuff is like "steel glue" for bearing races and threads. It also requires 500 degrees farenheit to loosen it's bond.

Not sure about loctite, it requires the absence of air to dry, correct? Or it is not very good at bridging gaps? I have had good luck with the jb weld and the surface was porus so hopefully it will work.

We will see how it goes with the new bearings. I think the new emaxx will get this motor on 5s and we will see how much better it is than the hacker c50.

so any testing yet???

Soldering iron crapped out, and I really want the new bearings before I test it, that rear bearing is shot! So most likely not till next week.

I want to know how it compares to the c50 as well.
It's a mission impossible to find the C50 Maxx motors. How's the Kontronik motor compared to the Hacker. I saw the kontronik 47 twist for 80 bucks clearance.

The 47 twist is definately worth that, is it local, or do you have a link:wink:

I would say that the kontronik motor has less power than the hacker b50 12s motor. The twist 37 is a great motor for a 2wd buggy, if I raced mine that would be what I used. No luck on the c50 maxx motors huh. I seem to find them frequently, just new and pricey. The b50 series are the same internals, and will fit better than the huge diameter c50 motors.

It's a canadian store....kontronik

So the B50 and C50 are same? I am really looking for the 1/8 shaft C50 motors.