My RC8 and B44
 

I have allready raced the B44. After racing running some laps I got a head on with a brushless 8th scale and broke a shock shaft. Buddy lent me a shock from an associated pan car pod lol. It was close enoughto play... still waiting with trigger on paypal when a main gets them back in stock... thought I'd mention it because you'll see the gold shock on front. Iwanted to test the RC8 out first time, and buddy with the HPI in first pic, has 6 or 8 batteries, so I wanted to have extra stuff to play with.

B44 has a Sidewinder 5700 combo, Intellect 4200 matched packs, Airtronics 958 (overkill but I had it), personal transponder and a cheap am radio go figure. I even painted the undertray black silver then black as did the wing. Stock tires and setup really, and I tossed a 17 tooth pinion on. I'd like to go up but it is still really fast. I shortened wires to the motor and such. I didn't do the servo or esc wires as I will be putting a different servo in and using this one in my nitro 1/8.

RC8 has a Mamba Max; 4 extra 440 uF caps soldered in parallel (still can't find a resistor in this shop, I know there has to be some), Neu 1512 2.5D with a custom filter (got the idea ff the rctech thread), RC Monster mount and servo tray, RC10 battery cup, I dyed and glued a plastic tray alongside the mud guards to close the holes before bolting the battery cup to the chassis. I slotted the plastic for the velcro which was glued into place with my fav fix all shoe goo. it's secure. I used my 2 7.4v 5000 mah Yuntong hard cased lipos. they are 20c and work well. until I get a 4S balance plug I made a Y adapter to run them in parallel. I have 2 lipo chargers with balancers so I charge the batteries seperately. FM rx and an Airtronics 959 servo. I had put the Kyosho plastic spur on at first but it didn't fit right and I had to file the holes slightly out all 4 corners to get the screws in and during spooling it in hand I saw some dif leakage. I took the dif out and shimmed the center dis so put the metal one back on. I think I'll leave it that way now.

I took out my camera, turned it on and it turned off again in about 20 seconds.... so I used the cel phone and just took a few pics. Testing was at a BMX track and I tested the beasts out on some worthy jumps.

Other than my motor moving a tad in the 8th scale, no damage or problems otherwise. I ran for 10 mins and stopped to check the esc and motor twice and not even warm. This BMX track was huge with multiple choices of jump types. I hadn't tried the real psycho ones with the 8th before the motor moved so I took the B44 off them. Next time we go there I'll get pics of the track too. The last pic I took with controller one hand and phone other. I am impresed with the torque LOL. Dug a good trench with a straight ahead punch. I need to buy new batteries again for that camera. it's time. I buy 2 set every year and that usually lasts... it's the night shots with flash that kills them, but that's usually when I am finished. I'll get some better pics with the camera tomorrow but wanted to toss thse out anyway.

http://www3.telus.net/Pipeous/Pics/26Feb08/

Very nice pics! What were you using for gearing as far as pinion selection?

OK guys, I'm needing some help. I running the RC8 w/ RC-M motor mount.

I am going to be running the Neu 1512 2.5D motor rated at 2050 KV or the Castle/Neu 1515 motor rated at 2200 KV on 4C lipo and a MMM.

What I need to know is what pinion/spur combo can I or should I run?

I keep hearing about the Kyosho 46 tooth plastic spur, will this be a direct fit on the RC8 diff? Also, what range of pinions should I be looking at? I've seen 12 to 15 tooth mentioned, will those cover the average sized track and will the 12 tooth work w/ the 46 tooth Kyosho?

Thanks guys!

nice cars i really like the b44 i might have to build one one i finish my muggy

I was liking that B44 too.:lol:

I have the kyosho plastic spur here which I ordered from RCM. I can't say if it was just the spur I got or if all are the same, but the holes didn't line up on mine properly. I had to file the 4 corners outwards a bit each to get the screws in place. I spooled it up bench test and saw dif lube so decided to just put the stock gear back in, otherwise I am running stock combination of gearing and it has plenty of torque and lots of top speed. I will be testing it out on an actual rc track this Sunday and will know better as to gearing but I don't think I am going to worry too much about change since it'll have as good, most likely better top speed than a nitro, and for sure it has more torque. I was trying to clear both doubles at the BMX track with a short run up and only traction kept me from doing it... well and avoiding the big rocks lol

Thanks guys. The B44 is a hoot to drive. I have a XXX4 here as well that needs a new chassis, but the B44 is just so sexy. All that carbon and aluminum stock, nice easy slipper to adjust, just need an allen wrench to stuff in a hole. The one complaint I have is the motor mount. It is a real pain to adjust the motor, remove it, or change pinions. I left the 17 on last race even though a friend offered to lend me a 20 because it was a big job. We both run B44's and he understood. He was overgeared and fried his Mamba lol, Other than that, it is very durable and drives amazingly well. it's very balanced. Stock up on some front shock shafts if you buy one. The shocks are a bit exposed to front end collisions.... I lost to a Losi 8. That said, a full speed head on crash with a brushless 8th scale and that was it for damage.

ok I have the camera in my pocket and just need to charge the batteries. I'll go take some pics in a bit, then I am off to help a friend break in some rc's for the cub scouts demo we are doing this Saturday... wow I am dis lex ick today. I had to edit this a few times and there's probably still mistakes

pipeous: Do you know a Barry Wilson?

Speaking with Dan from RCProductDesigns here is what he said:

"The RC8 uses a modified IF148 46T spur. I do the Mods then you do some changes in the shimming on the gears in the inside of the diff."

He also sells the spurs modified already. Not sure what shimming is done different in the diffs, but he probably wouldn't have a problem saying what.

I am Barry Wilson ;) so ya guess I know him.

the shims are used inside the dif. the stock shimming the gears are quite loose. I relied on reading it in the rctech thread and a member there suggested it to me because he chewed up gears. the kit comes with spares anyway so I opened the difs when changing the spur back to the stock one and shimmed behind the small gears to tighten things. so far so good and I have chewed a few nubs off my crime fighters allready from digging trenches so I have put some good shock on the difs. even this afternoon running on pavement outside the hobby shop to show a few customers (I was behind the counter babbling and ended up selling a helicopter today too.... oh you'll have to pay her, I don't actually work here)

got a couple converts out of that session ordering their conversion kits now.... Mike you have some more BC customers, and most of the guys are heading down the street to go get capacitors for their escs now too. I can't tell you how impressed I am with adding the caps to keep the esc cool. I ran hard for 15 mins and let everyone check the motor temps and esc. it was about 90 degrees. I've learned a lot of cool things from this forum and from the thread on rctech, but I will never use a fan again I'll tell ya. Adding caps to my Sidewinder now too. it gets hotter than my Mamba does

Cool stuff. I really like the looks of your RC8.

Mike at RCMonster stated he could also predrill his battery tray for me so I would be up and running right away, even having it preinstalled on an RC8 as well. Thats really cool.

For gearing with the 46T or stock RC8 spur (44T right?), what are you guys settling on as far as a common pinion range with the 2.5D, 2D, and 1.5D Neu Motors?

Those caps you are running, are those the castle ones?

When you run all the caps together, do they compare to say a similar cap that has the same total value, just 1 cap? Wondering if I could run 1 or 2 of the Novak HV caps in parallel and get the temp benefit.

actually the 4 caps I used in parallel are les uF than the one for the hvmaxx. I have a total of 1760 uF (4X440) and the novak one is 2700 uF I believe.

I have to pull my mamba apart today and going to remount the electronics slightly. the on board caps from stock got hit in that location and one was bent over and broke a wire. I hope I can repair it without taking the bloody boards apart.... we'll see shortly

and anyone that says the chinese dean's ultras are the same is wrong LOL. they don't fit anywhere near as tight. I had my battery come unplugged twice just landing a jump and not a wipeout. I thought something was fried...

Yup figured that, was curious if there was more benefit to running smaller caps over 1 bigger one that is noticeable. I am going to give the Novak cap a go.

Good info though, especially about the chinese deans. Will look to avoid those.

Well like Brian said, it helps dissipate the heat. I read that thread and wondered. At our indoor racing one of the guys busted his fan on his gtb, he couldn't stop thermalling after that. I saw another esc go up in smoke, mamba, and was curious. I figured it was worth a try and so far it has proved worthy enough a few other guys are now going to do the same.

I did the case mod on my TTR S3 conversion and frankly I didn't like the mess it leaves of the packaging. Add to that a fan is delicate. We push the 8th scales a lot. And I just had a cpu fan and power supply fan go and overheated my computer so not thrilled with fans right now hehe.

I will be ordering the novak one then to try out.

Yeah, I made the mistake of getting 10 pairs of the knock off Deans of e-bay, after a few uses, they were pretty much useless.

Cain, was there going to be any additional charge to have the holes pre-drilled for an RC8?