Spur gears for FLM Velinion stampede
 

Does anyone know where I can buy a 5-10 pack of spur gears for my FLM velinion powered pede? I'm looking for the stock 86 t

I keep stripping the spurs and I think my pinion picked up some pebbles while bashing and is stripped too.

How can I tell if my pinion needs replacing? It's only 3 months old!

Sounds like it is time to go to the jato spur gears. They are 32p and much stronger than the 48p gears. Use reguar 32p pinion, like the emaxx ones, or robinson racing sells them too.

Let me know what you current gearing is (pinion and spur) and I will tell you which ones to buy to maintain the same gearing. Plus you can run with the cover off, as the 32p gears do not care about sand or grit. My motor even came loose and cut the teeth half off, readjusted the mesh and I am still running the same spur!

If the pinion is not symetrical on the teeth /\ , If there is a slight tilt away from the foreward side (looking at the spur side of the tranny) the wheel turns clockwise, the pinion goes counter, so if the point of the pinion is towards clockwise , then every time you brake it tears up the spur a little bit Till failure

I'm running the stock stampede vxl pinion and spur. I think it's 48p and the spur is 86t. I'm going to go to robinson racing's website to see if they've got the correct spur and pinion I need. any suggestions on sizes?

My pinion must be shot because i keep tearing up spurs (2 per afternoon-6-7 battery cycles)

there is something wrong I know I have a stamped with a brushless in it and do not eat up gears that fast the only problem I have is the motor is always moving do to the plasic that the motor is bolted to and then if I do not see this it will strip out the gear.

If you use a 58t jato spur, then a 13t 32pitch pinion gear (traxxas or robinson) will work fine, and maintain the same ratio as the stock pinion/spur.

I don't have any problems with stripped spurs either and I've beat the heck out of my VXL Rustler.

The new rustlers (since the xl5) run the revo slipper, I just bolted the mod1 revo spur straight on a run a 14t hardened steel mod1 RCM pinion. Can't imagine it stripping any time soon.

So all the bad things I hear about steel spurs are fiction? I thought they were designed to be a stressed member of the driveline and wear out--- I have to be honest, I think part of the problem is that I'm new to the hobby and dont know what the proper gap should be...

I've learned an incredible amount in building my FLM pede. Now I'm trying to figure out how to not spend the mortgage on new 2.4 Gig radios and additional trucks!

haha

Have it as close as you can without binding. I basically push it hard together, and back it off very slighty, then try and turn the spur a full rotation. If it binds somewhere (often it seems to be tighter in one part) then open the gap slightly more, and try again. If it gets to the point where one side of the spur is very close, near binding, and the other side is really loose, the choose a mid ground so the gears will get worn into each other :P (not common, only usually a problem with cheaply made crap).

I think a common technique might be to put a bit of paper in there and push it hard together, tighten everything up, then pull the paper out. maybe double layer the paper if that doesnt work.