RC-Monster Forums - Capacitor on MM

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I've buy an electrolitic capacitor today at local electronic supply.
the only available was a 3300uF, 50 volts.
Can i put it on the input lead, or should absolutly have a 2700uF, 25 volts?

thank you!

Yes, you can put it on the input battery lead, just solder it as close to the ESC as possible.

Larger values of capacitance is fine, it will just be physically larger and create a larger hook-up spark. An increased voltage rating is fine too.

It's been a few years since I have been in a physics class (ok, only like 4, but that is long enough) but I think that should be fine. I am 99% sure the voltage issue wouldn't matter (as long as your cap is rated higher then your source) aka even if the cap is capable of holding 50v, it should only be able to charge as high as the power supply connected to it. As for the uf, I think 3300 is a little overkill (bigger the number, the more capacity it can store), but it should still work again, I don't think there is any drawback to a larger number here (other then more weight).
(disclaimer) As my engineering background is chemical, not electrical, I can honestly say I didn't study that section of physics to heavily so my statement, if it agrees with the other would be good for a consensus, not as fact on its own.

I have a feeling that it will be fine, as long as you drive it David.

Being that you are canadian, and the capcitor is also canadian, you will be fine. If someone who is not canadian (me for instance) would drive the vehicle, there may be a compatibility issue. I only say this as I purchased a few products that were made in mexico (and I am not mexican) and they did not work. I work fine with chinese and taiwanese products, but am not either nationality, so my theory may not hold true?!

Well LinC, it may lay in the fact that you have a slight tint of yellow in your underskin. Therefore your theory holds true.

I trick asian products to work for me, with my last name. Eventhough I don't look nothing like one. I keep getting confused for a mexican, and mexican made products work great for me as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG (Post 154904)

If you look closely on the MM board, where the input lead is solder, they've somes littles holes, just beside the + and the - lead.
And surprise, this holes have exactly the same diameter of the capacitor wire.
So i'll just have to slid each capacitor wire in this hole and put a little dab of solder!!!!!

More, this hole is very close to the input lead, so maybe i'll just heat the solder on the input lead and this will melt with the capacitor wire.

But for sure, this 50V, 3300uF is huge:mdr:

Supposedly the solder that castle uses takes 500+ deg f to melt. I have not managed to melt it successfully yet, so I just use the wire close to the board.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp (Post 154945)

Supposedly the solder that castle uses takes 500+ deg f to melt. I have not managed to melt it successfully yet, so I just use the wire close to the board.

I've replace the 3 wires on motor side with bigger one on my previous MM, and melt it very easily with my 50000W iron:lol:
No seriously, i've a cheap iron, don't know how much power output, but melt it without any trouble:neutral:

Quote:

Originally Posted by david lamontagn (Post 154968)

Interesting, when bernie did the pics for the pizza, he said that the solder had to be heated past 500deg. So that they could sell it in a certain market overseas, or something like that. My iron would not melt it, but the tip needed changing.

Most irons, I believe, can heat up to 600+ F at least. Correct me if i'm wrong?

Yeah, they do, but the wires and PCB traces tend to wick the heat away so the iron tip temp drops quite rapidly.

:yes: I learnt that the hard way- why do deans have to be made from plastic, why not some heat resistant material like ceramic or something?....

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp (Post 154969)

I think this is what you are talking about. You have a good memory. :yes:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernie Wolfard (Post 147722)

Please do not solder on the circuit board as it voids the warranty. Before you all post things like "I am a pro solderer" and "I have soldered on circuit boards all my life and really, really, really know what I am doing" consider this. We use high temperature, lead free solder with special flux to enable us to sell our products into the European Union. This solder and flux is not readily available. The circuit boards are heavy copper and conduct heat very well. The problems these create are that standard lead based solder does not mix well with our solder and will create a cold joint. The amount of heat it takes to flow our solder is conducted though the circuit board to the point where parts will loosen or fall off the other side. It takes special training and equipment to reliable solder onto a Castle Creations circuit board without creating problems. Because of these issues, we do not make exceptions to the rule that if you solder on the circuit board the warranty is void.

If you really feel you need to solder directly onto a Castle Creations circuit board and later have problems the saving grace is it only costs about one third to one half the cost of a new ESC to have it replaced. Check the out of warranty replacement costs on the ‘Support’ tab on our website, www.castlecreations.com.

Bernie

You're right James, i had not been able to solder on the PCB, the solder does'nt want to melt down:whistle:

I've skin a little of the main input lead and solder on it.

But :gasp: this 3300uF is HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I preheat the whole unit (without the cheap switch wires, and <radio/signal> wires removed) to 300*f first. Then soldering anything on the boards is easy... The deans and silicone wire holds up just fine.