got a ?
 

i have SUPERMAXX EMAXX with dual Plettenberg BigMAXXimums & Schulze 18.97 esc's(24cells)......All metal gears in diffs and trani.....The week link is the transmission output shaft!...does anyone make a titanium or hardened steel output shaft?????????????????

Not sure about the output shaft, but I would love to see some pictures of this beast you speak of. :yes:

hi

that truck sure looks very nice. :party: however it sure is awfully heavy.
so maybe making it lighter will also help to deal with your output shaft problem.

bye
rhylsadar

You will shave some weight off by using lipos. I think 4 or 5S lipos will be a nice up grade for your truck. It will also take out some of the load causing you to have that weak link in your set up.

this is the reason for my problems!
 

Im sure I've seen that truck somewhere before....

Anyway, i think the problem is you have enough power bolted to that truck to move a 1:5 scale... nay, 1:2 scale even (powerwheels jeep). I would suggest running a single plett- more than enough power.

You would need to get a custom machined output shaft for the stock 3906 tranny design, or go to a centerdiff type setup perhaps...

lipo would be great!
 

i would love to lighten my rig,BUT...i have 12 matched packs,NOVAK equalizer/smart tray,2 millinnium pro chargers and NOVAK power pack that i am not ready to scrap!...YET!

who...where?
 

who makes a custom output shaft?

You'd have to look for a specialist online or in your local area- using the original as a template they would draw up a 3D model and then machine it using CNC, although since it is a rather basic item, they could just take some measurements and make it free-hand on a lathe i suppose using a square bar of Ti ( I make it sound so simple)...

With the money you have invested in that rig, it shouldnt be too much of an issue i dont suppose.... :mdr:

????
 

My question would be if you upgrade the output shaft, what would be the next weak point? Like was stated prior maybe you just have too much power onboard for the setup:lol:? Still the rig looks pretty sick to me. Nice work. Any chance you could post a few more photos for a better look at the power plant? Nice truck:yipi:.

I have one very similar, but have not really settled on the electronics just yet $$$. I am busy trying to set up my FLM Maxx with the duel Dewalt 970 motors hooked up. I am taking my time with them because I hope to avoid any failures just to get running the way that I hope.:party:

i also think u should try to shave some weight i know u said u dont want to get rid of ur nimh, chargers and etc but if u did u'd have enough to get ur lipo's and chargers. honestly i think it would be worth the switch for u

it hauls ars
 

i will put up a vidio this week...THERE ARE NO OTHER WEEK LINKS!...the output shaft heald up for about 15 TWENTYFOUR cell runs!!..thats not bad for an $8 part...i put in a new one tomorrow!....the old shaft was weekened a bit when a grub screw came loose on one of the trani output drive cups...it must have taken out more metal than i thought!............:surprised:

metal.
 

Thats one of the things I like about building with metal is the strength of the drivetrain. Once you find something that works well it is hard to break. Everything is breakable if you push it hard enough. Still we have fewer failures to deal with. Shaving down weight is fine, but the UE SuperMaxx is already shaved down quite a bit already without comprimising rigidity. So the delema is how to put enough power to the wheels to move it. I like your approach and I think the same way. Find enough power and configure your vehicle to handle the weight that is installed. Lite is great for on-road racing, but in the dirt having a little weight to keep the tires planted firmly in the dirt is key to keeping the trucks power moving. Look at the baja 500 supertrucks. The big dogs weigh a ton for just that reason. That is why they put a lot of attention to the strength of the drivetrain. Maxximum strength plus maxximum power equals a great deal of weight. You have to find a happy medium to make things work for you.

Still if you look around on here you will learn that LIPOS are the way of the future. They do give you more power to weight ratio period. Make the switch and get it over with. You will not be disapointed.:lol:

jerry- if you've gone brushless you'll be very disappointed with the 970's

plettenbergs-go to a center diff, or better yet, sell me a bigmaxx

Maybe.
 

Yea maybe so, but I am still in the learning curve with this:yes:. As I have stated here before I have only been in this hobby for three years and I have much to learn. I have built 4 Super Maxx type trucks that all need power plants. Although I am a retired Navy mechanic bringing a lot of experience to this hobby my electrical experiences are limited to huge power plant training. With the Dewalt 970 power drill motors I already know what they can do, because of my experience in construction. So I wanted to see what they can do in one of my trucks:whistle:. They have tons of torque and their reliability factor is pretty good as well:yipi:. So why not? Yes they are brushed, but they still take a lot of abuse before ever needing any kind of maintenance:yes:. Plus the bottom line is the price. Show me that kind of power and reputation for $30 on the brushless side:rules:. It was a good way to start out for very little money:party:.

I also have a Novak HV Maxx 4.5 that I am playing with. It may not be great. but it seems to work fairly well for the price:intello:. I am waiting on a Monster Pro 125B right now that I just purchased form someone on here, and I like a lot of others on here am waiting patiently for the MMM to put in my last project now in production:diablo:. I just have to figure out and come up with a couple of good motors for testing. I am considering a Mega motor 30 series for one, and a 1515.1Y(or similar) for the other one. I am sure that it will take some testing and practice on my part before I am happy with any of them:lol:. Have you tried the Dewalt 970 motors?:lol: