Diffs
 

just stripped the rear diff gears. The stock cups are fine but the gears are rounded out. 'm looking for the best soultition for a basher. Im currently running a 7xl and 4s lipo. I have a strobe slipper and a 14 tooth pinion. I'd like to stick to something cheap and not too expensive, are the RPP's all their cracked up to be? Im planning on getting into some light racing when they open a local track this next month so i thought about getting some hybrid diffs but im not sure if this is going to be ok for bashing.

Which gears are stripped? The ring/pinion, or the internal spider gears?

If it's the spider gears, the problem is most likely a flexing cup. Try an aluminum version.

If it's the ring/pinion gears, I would look at how well they are shimmed. If that's ok, maybe there is a helical cut version available.

Hybrids are great for bashing I run them in my NeuMaxx with 1/8 scale diffs. See my signature.

It was the ring and pinion that stripped and i dont see any shims in the diff at all. I think ATM im going to run stock gears due to the price. The hybrids are a little out of my price range right now.

Yeah, shims can make a big difference. It can take time to get just right, but worth it in the long run. A proper and consistent mesh is important. Too tight or too loose is not good...

Yea i think if i shim them theyll be fine for now.

Learned some time back, the only way to build a solid diff using trx parts is to use an alum diff cup with the 3mm screws, modded ring gear to use 3mm screws, shim for proper gear mesh and put the diff in a set of alum cases/diff collar. I've used gpm, integy and GA alum diff cases - use cheapest ones you can find. Plastic diff cases (even the 3.3 with 4 screws) will flex just enough to let pinion pull away from ring and that over time is what strips the gears. Metal cases holds it all in alignment and stops the flex and stops gears from stripping.

Only other way to make diffs last is to never punch it or jump it. Both of those are hard to do, lol!!

Yea i actully didnt notice but the bulkhead that i didnt take off to get the diff out is broken at the rear screw hole. I think its the cause of the diff slipping like it was. Towards the end of the run the truck was nothing but front wheel drive. The front tires were balloning like crazy!