1/8 Buggy Tire/Wheel weight?
 

Ok humor me here...
In an effort to save money I bought some cheap tires off of ebay. They work great so far, but when I put them on a scale I was surprised to see that they weighed around 1 lb for the set of 4.
Is this normal?
As my buggy is overweight, I would consider paying for pro-line or other brand name tires/rims if there is enough of a weight savings.
So, If you have any buggy tires around I would appreciate it if you could throw it (1, 2, or 4) on a scale and let me know how much it weights.
please include:
Number of tires-
Tire brand/model-
Rim brand/type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-
if you are aware whether they are soft or medium compound that would be helpful
Also, include how much wear the tires have seen (if they are bald, they should be slightly lighter).

Additionally, does anyone know if the molded foam inserts are lighter or heavier then the old school donut foams?

I know I touched on this in a pervious thread a month ago, but I didn't get any solid numbers, and I feel this might be useful to others in the future.
Thanks

Panther switch tires (soft, with included foams) on Ofna spoke rims = 13 3/4 oz. set of 4

Also need to list the foams used.. and if they are clean ;)

I can weigh some sets late tonight..

thanks for the info (and keep it coming). I might need to bring my tires to work tomorrow to get a better weight then "about a pound" so that we can better compare of no-brand tires to brand name.

13 3/4 = 0.859375 lbs:lol:

Do you realy thing cmcclive that this 0.140625 lbs difference will help your buggy to accelerate faster:gasp::wink:

David,
I am more interested in reducing weight to put less strain on the motor. The buggy is at 9.3 lbs, there is fat to be cut, I want to find out where. I know there are several things I could do to cut weight more drastically, but I also want to fully evaluate all possibilities before going further. Also, looking at the data below, my tires are actually 1.09-1.1lbs, while his were .86lbs, that might be enough of a difference for me to care, especially sense that is rotating mass, that has much more effect then say the same weight difference on something "stationary" like the batteries.
Definition of stationary in that example-object that does not move relative the buggy.
And to update my tires:
Weight-1.1lb(499.7g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-unknown
model-"racing spikes" (see here)please note: this link goes to an ebay page, it is not my ebay page, but it is the product I purchased, I am not endorsing this product or trying to sell it to you.
Rim brand-unknown
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-Dish
Rubber-medium compound
Condition-New

Weight-1.09lb(494.5g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-unknown
model-"Mohawk" (see here)please note: this link goes to an ebay page, it is not my ebay page, but it is the product I purchased, I am not endorsing this product or trying to sell it to you.
Rim brand-unknown
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-Spoke
Rubber-medium compound
Condition-99.9% new (no wear)

If my post is confusing I apologize, I just sat in a 6-8 room for 8 hours watching iron pellets come out of a tube (more complicated then that obviously). Now I have to work another 6ish hours before I go home and start the process again tonight. AKA I am not necessarily in the correct frame of mind.

What's your buggy??
I'm to convert my Hyper 7 pro, and with the 1515 motor, the FP 5000, 4s pack and MGM 16018, i'am to 8.6 lbs.
It's a prety heavy buggy. I would want to have an MBX5R, but don't have $$$ for this now.

But 8.6 lbs is lighter than my mugen truggy at 11 lbs:intello:

my buggy is a mp777 sp2 with a novak HV4.5 motor, 2 aluminum battery trays and (the biggest weight issue) 2 2s 10,000mAh lipo batteries.
I decided to go with the huge batteries to ensure I could survive the 15-20min A-mains at the local nitro track, as well as bash for ever. Although going with say a 5000mAh battery would have cut .8lbs off of the weight of the buggy, I didn't know for sure if it would give me enough runtime. (On occasion, if someone needs to leave by a certain time I have seen them run the race right after that classes 2nd qualifying, which would add 5 minutes onto run time.
Cost effectively, if I refuse to cut down on the batteries the wheels (if I can find something a little lighter then those 0.86lb wheels that aren't to expensive) are one of the few things left for me to cut down on, other then maybe remaking my battery trays from UHMWPE or derlin. Or changing motor/esc as the novak system is heavy.
I do need to run the buggy more, once I rebuild the diff to see if my motor thermaling was a fluke (I was running in grass) or if it will actually keep happening as thermaling is just as bad as dead batteries in a race...

I could try to put another fan or two on the motor... or maybe buy novak's new fan mount thing as I am pretty sure it would save weight
Here is a pic of my buggy, other pics are on my "mp777 sp2 brushless" thread
http://www.mcclive.com/files/rc/mp777side3.jpg

If anyone has tires, rims, foam insterts laying around I would be interested to know what they weight individually.

I can see that you have an Ofna Spyder diff on the center, the same one that i've in my H7.
Could you tell me what oil weight have you put in this diff, and how you fill it??

I realy don't know how to fill this type of diff and should i put thread lock on the 6 screw??

thank you

I really don't have to much experience with it. I have 10k fluid in there, seems to work ok although I notice that in grass if I am light on the trigger the diff will spin without the tires moving. (maybe I need to be harder on the throttle, maybe I need heavier weight diff fluid, I don't know).
As for filling...
The best way I could figure out is install all 6 screws (as usual, put em all in a little loose then tighten in a pattern like car lug nuts. Once they are all tight, I then unscrew one and put in the diff fluid from that whole. Since I am using 10k, it is thick enough that it doesn't leak out to much from the other side.
As for the thread lock, that would probably be a good idea. My suggestion for that would be to put a little on the threaded end of the diff (in the threads) and then insert the screws and tighten. Of course if you are using my previously mentioned method of putting diff fluid in you would only want to initially put thread lock on 5 of the screws, tighten all 6, then remove the non thread locked, pour in diff fluid, insert the screw almost all of the way (pushed fully in, but not threaded, wipe off any diff fluid that came out, put some thread lock on the threads, and screw it in.

I purchased a used tire lot off ebay so I have some more tire info:

Weight-0.98b(443.7g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-Werks
model-"W's"
Rim brand-unknown
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-spoke
Rubber-medium compound
Condition-used

Weight-0.94b(427.6g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-GRP
model-"Atomic"
Rim brand-GRP
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-12 spoke
Rubber-unknown
Condition-used

Weight-1.03b(466.1g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-Pro-line
model-"Bow-Tie"
Rim brand-Proline
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-dish
Rubber-unkown
Condition-used

Weight-1.17b(533.0g)
Number of tires- 4
Tire brand-Pro-line
model-"Mugshot"
Rim brand-Proline
Type (type=dish/spoke, ect)-dish
Rubber-unkown
Condition-used

I did notice the my off brand rims look thicker (heavier) then the brand name rims. I would be willing to guess that most of my weight difference in the tires is coming from the rims.

I would like to know the weight of all the proline premounts