Hyper ST Battery Config Suggestions
 

Setup
Hyper ST MMM (Interim MM / BEC / Fan / Cap) / Neu 1515 2.5D / HS5595TG

Opinions/Suggestions Please

Caveat! No idea is Maxamps 6s2p 4200 will run with MMM

Note to anyone building a Hyper ST - The spur is LARGE! It extends well beyond the RCM mount - I'm intending to make a custom shield....

Option 1 - Traditional with MMM mounted behind..

Polyquest sized RCM tray - Currently with Protek 4k 5s - could fit my 5k 4s ...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...7;20ST/028.jpg

Option 2 - Rotated Diff - Saddle packs at rear..

2x Maxamps sized RCM tray - Would run with 2x Protek 4k 5s (970g though!) or 2 x maxamps 3s for 6s...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...r%20ST/029.jpg

Option 3 - Super long traditional with MMM mounted either behind batteries or above diff..

1 Custom RCM tray - Would run with 1x Protek 4k 5s (with padding) or 2 x maxamps 3s for 6s...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...r%20ST/030.jpg

Ok, I like to have the battery as far forward on the gas tank/engine side as possible. You can most likely make a combo tray that will work with both batteries that you have. I would make a tray that will fit the proteck pack well, and mount the MMM behind the battery. Something that looks like my hyper8:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1940.jpg

I like to make my own trays, so I would make seperate trays for each battery type. I usually make a riser out of al, that I can mount to the chassis using existing holes (I do not like to drill any holes in the chassis). Then I tap holes in those risers to mount the tray from the top. So I only have to remove 4 easy to get to screws to remove the trays, and I can leave the risers in place.

Seems to work so far. As shown in the above pic, I canted the tray towards the center at the front, in an effort to get the weight as close to the center as possible. I am going to do something similar to my hyper st.

What are those last packs? They seem like they would make good saddles.

I can't see using 2 5S packs. Seems like you need short batts to go in the rear or just bite the bullet and hang the batt off the side like pic 1. Prob is that most short batts are low capacity, like max 2500mah cells.

Looks like this narrow chassis trend is going to make conversions a PITA.

I am already setup for HV from my Revo. If I don't like the way a 44mm pack was going to fit I was just going to go HV in a saddle. I already have 1 4S 2500 pack for my .5 I don't use too much. Then I was just thinking cheap packs for bash/practice/quals.

Only prob is I don't think an 8S 2500 pack can do a 15 min main. Hmm... gotta think about this..

the conversion i saw was running 2x 5000mah venom 2s packs in series. the guy had made alloy guards, which were slightly wider, and had them mounted either side. he was using a feigao 5409L (the finned black one...) with a mamba max esc and ubec mounted somewhere.

it seemed to go really well, didnt see it hit any jumps or race, but the trays seemed pretty sturdey considering he only used the existing holes... and it somehow all fitted under the shell (stock) hope this helps.

The first picture gets my vote. A single battery on one side and everything else on the other is ideal for weight balance most times(depends on the battery - sometime the esc can live with the battery). A single battery will always get my vote - half the charge time to worry about, and usually easier to balance and install. You can also adjust front/rear balance very easily by simply moving the battery foreward or rearward as needed. :)

Just to add on behalf of Mike's claims. Most rc companies that make shaft driven touring cars have adopted the "battery on one side/ the electrics on the other side" a long time ago, since they've said that such a configuration will give a near 50:50 weight distribution and perfect the balance of the chassis to some extent.

The TC3, TC4, TC5, TB EVO, TB EVO 2, TB EVO 3, TB EVO 4, TRF 415, TRF 416, PRO4, CYCLONE, and many other on and off road vehicles are using this lay out.

i run the same as picture number 1 .. has my vote too ..
It would be nice to offset the diff center like losi 8T . i am thinking of re drilling my holes and moving the battery tray closer to center.

yes agree spur is big ! you can drop down to a buggy spur 46T and adjust pinion gearing. this might help with size.

Thanks for feedback - I went with Option 1 with standard polquest tray - It fits the protek well - maybe .5" long but easily dealt with a spacer. It will allow me to run a 4s pack while the MMM is away.

The ESC mounted up perfectly behind the tray - I used one on the motor mounts and some CF to create a little riser so ESC not on the chassis (Helps in case I hit water)...

Happy with the results...