Best 10th scale 4wd
 

I already have a monster truck, so now I want a truggy. I want it to be 10th scale or smaller. The two that I have in mind are the CRT .5 and the Hot bodies Lightning Stadium 10 sport.

Are their any rtr electric 10th scale truggies? I'd prefer that because it would cost less in the end. I don't want to go for Kyosho or Tamiya because my LHS doesn't carry parts for them.

I like 10th scale because you can pump so much power through them for the size. I'd like to run 4s lipo on this one. I am open to suggestions. What should I get?

i noticed you subscribed to my youtube videos so i assume youve seen the hell i put my LS10 through.............its a solid truck but its not a racer, so if your just screwing around its hard to go wrong with it.

im making an extended chassis with 1/8 shocks for mine atm, hopefully you guys will see a thread later this week with my progress on this.

The best bet is the crt.5 with the rcm chassis, ofna lx buggy front shocks to replace the .5 rears, and jato shocks to replace the fronts. I have both a ls10 and a crt.5. The ls10 is decent, but does not have a center diff, and has some issues with the rear dogbones coming out. Limiting the rear shock travel will cure the dogbone issue. The ls10 does have a center slipper clutch with a larger plastic spur. It will handle a beating better than the .5 (my opinion).

The full option crt.5 I described will beat $600 new, and the ls10 will be much cheaper. If you only plan to bash, go with the ls10. You will have to make a battery tray, or buy one from mike when you get the motor mount...

On a side note, I have a new ls10 than I may want to sell. I could do it complete (nitro) or as a roller...

Ahh, it'll probably be next year when I get my next car. I have to get rid of my recoil and my Vendetta in the mean time. How do the diffs hold up in both cars? I'll do some searching for pics of the Hot Bodies, feel free to post them if you want.

I do not have an LS10 so I can't say how good/bad it is, but from my experience with my CRT.5, it is a very good handling and tough truck/buggy. I am actually running 4s on it right now, and it is doing very well. :yes: And with Mike's extended a-arms and chassis, it will be even better. There are also many more converted CRT.5's than LS10's (from what I have seen at least) so that may benefit you in deciding how to do the conversion and give you idea's for mounting electronics, etc. :yes:

EDIT: You happened to post before me, but the diffs in my CRT.5 are holding up fantastic. It uses a scaled down 1/8 diff, so they are very tough and should hold up to any power plant you decide to use. :wink:

For a power plant I am thinking a 36-50-3300 Medusa on 4s with a mamba max. Should be fast enough? I don't have the biggest budget, so no RCM cnc aluminum for me. I'll probably stay with the stock chassis.

How much room for batteries are their on either truck? The battery I want to use is 160x51x32mm. I don't want to get an extended chassis, but I may have to if it comes down to it.

that aint gonna fit on a stock crt.5 chassis very easily, the diffs in my ls10 lasted for over 30 hours, till the rear stripped the back side of a gear, the front is still going strong at 40+.......

and btw a crt.5 center diff does fit in the LS10 im putting one in my extended chassis im making right now. it also dwarfs a crt.5 as my ls10 will have a 13 inch wheel base with komodo LP truggy tires and wheels, so its actaully bigger than an 1/8 buggy but alot lighter.......i think you guys will have a different opinion after you see mine. im gonna call it an Ls9 lol, but im not showing anypics until i have my chassis near complete then ill post my thread that way it wont drag along.

The .5 is a sweet car and has an incredibly tough drivetrain. It handles fantastically and should be up to anything you want to do with it.

My lastest and favorite setup is a medusa 2200 50mm motor on 4S 25C 2100 Zippy lipos, controlled by a sidewinder. The 35mm wide lipos fit nicely on the Ofna chassis and the higher voltage allows the use of the cheaper controller and also lower temps. The controller is easier to program too as the usb port on the MM is never in the right place.
I also use a Neu 30C 2500 pack, but the Zips are hard to beat for the price and put out just as much power. I even put on Masher2000s on Jato rims for off roading and good clearance. 1/10 buggy or truck tires for the track.

Mike's chassis is also very nice, and the longer wheelbase would help. The .5 is small enough its a lot less forgiving in the air vs the fullscale 1/8th trugs, so it makes you drive better. It is incredibly light and nimble.

That battery sounds huge. I'm not sure it would even fit on the .5. Really you don't need that big a batt. It just makes it heavy, unbalanced and more likely to break. The 4S 2100 batt I have is only ~230g and is equal to a 2S 4200 lipo. Plenty of runtime, 15-20min bashing, and at $40 you can afford to have a few. I'd try to stay under 300g on the batt.

4S on the 3300 will be psyco fast. My LMT was 3100kv, and on 4S it would do more than 60mph. See my vid. My 2200 still pulls as much as 90A with the mashers on, and I was getting peaks of 1200W plus. Way way more power than you need. 1000W is great really. EZ rolling wheelies as well. 4S on the 3300 will be uncontrolable, trust me. FWIW, Arct1k has a 3300 on 3S on his .5 and it was way fast and doing 48mph pretty easy.

Ryan - The speed runs 48mph at the end were on 4s 5000mah c**pamps... I think that 4s on the 3300 would be ok with just gearing it down a touch...

12T would give you 42mph

what are the adtvantages or disatvantages of a crt .5 vs a crt 1x

Oh wow 15-20 min bashing on 2100mah. I was expecting about 5-10... I wonder how a direct drive outrunner would do. I am putting one in my revo. It will be cheaper and probably faster then the medusa etc., but harder on the drivetrain. From what I hear though both trucks can handle it.

O'rly? I thought it was your 3S packs :neutral:


Oh well.. I'm suprized it was wasn't faster then lol. It could prolly take a lot more gear. When I did the 60mph passes w/ the LMT I had a 18T pinion and 1/10th buggy tires. I was actually only pulling 1000W then. With the M2Ks on a 13T or 14T I was pulling 1400W on the LMT and doing just under 50.

Right now I have a 13T w/ the mashers and the Medusa and it runs really well. OTOH I had the buggy tires on w/ the 13T at first and it was a bit slow, about 35-38mph. Wouldn't wheelie either. Putting on the bigger tires (and bigger load) really woke the motor up. I think it needs a 15-16T for the small tires, and a 14-15T for 1/10 truck tires to run well.

So it sounds like either would work, assuming the 3300 stays cool w/ that high FDR. (sounds like it does) I do guarantee that 3300 will be balisitic if you up the gearing.

There's been a couple of threads about this in the past:

Here's one I found:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13183

Like Finnster I've tried a myriad of motor/battery/wheel/tire combos in my CRT.5 and the only conclusions I've come to for my setups are:
-It takes about 925-950W peak to really push this buggy around when geared in the ~40-45 range.
-When using 1/10 buggy tires w/16T pinion or 1/10 truck tires with 13T pinion the speed is about the same and so is the power output.
-I keep going back and forth between the buggy and truck tires because there are different aspects of running with each that are both positive and negative, but I think the 2.8 Anacondas are the best on-road tire pick for parking lot running.

I'm currently running with a 5S 2600 TP pack and 1512 2.5d (2050kv) on a MM and I love the setup. More than enough power and great temps. I like the additional weight to help stabilize a bit more from bouncing around all over the place.

The one problem I have with the CRT.5 more so than any other car I've had is that on any sort of grass surface it is extremely prone to flipping when you turn - even at very slow speeds.

I have not had an LS10, but I have to say I am very tempted to get one because of the flipping problem and also that the front upper arm turnbuckles have a real issue with snapping.

What setup are you running on the .5? Mine does great on just about everything. My 10th truck is a bit more stable overall due to both greater width and length, but 4wd .5 is more fun to drive. With truck tires I run the rear bones a bit below level and set the front ride height for chassis level. With buggy tires I run rear bones level and front again set up to level the chassis with the rear. I had some tip over problems in the past, but it was because I was running too stiff of springs.