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Kyosho ST upgrade to STRR and Conversion
I've was planning on working on converting my Kyosho Inferno st us sport this winter. Well looks like winter has come early this year. I was out searching for the best buy on a servo saver set from HPI. Was going around checking the usual places. I still have Impakt RC book marked on the NEU motors page from when I was searching for one to put in the evo. In habit I scrolled down to see what was in stock. This time it looked like everyting was out except for the 1515 1y S. I had to take a double take on that. When I bought the one for the evo. I was actually staring at that same page wondering if I should buy one of the other 1515's and the out of stock notice changed right in front of me. So that started the avalanche. I checked to see if mike had a 1515 in stock before I went ahead and bought it there. Came back to RCM and got a front cover and a motor mount for it. Went to amain and got the STRR universial rear center shaft to fit the extended STRR chassis that I got from Dragon RC a couple of weeks ago. Forgot about the pinion so order a 14t mod 1 from them. I got a 16t from mike last week. Money was going out as fast as the internet would take it. So I used the 3 pay at tower and picked up a FP 4s2p 50000 lipo and finally ordered the HPI servo saver set that I started out to buy. Looks like the balls rolling now.
Still got some parts to gather before the ST becomes a legit ST-RR but I got what's needed to run the extended chassis and have some big bores on the back. Figured I would upgrade the differentials when they got out. Speaking of differentials... What is the gear ration for the differential in the inferno? Are they the same for the US Sport and the ST-RR? I was using the 8th scale buggy 43/13 on the parameter solver/calculator. Better get to bed so I can make it to work on time and pay for this. |
Anyone know what I use for the differntial gear ratio for the inferno or where I could get it? I'm using the parameter solver to help with what pinions I should get.
Thanks. I found 4.3:1 Is that correct? |
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I couldn’t hold out for the rest of the parts to show up to do the conversion. Once the rear shaft showed up on Friday I had everything I really needed to make it happen. This is the prototype I guess. I want to see how the top plate works out then I will take more time and clean everything up. I just removed the front and rear and slapped them on the new chassis. The dishwasher was still full so I just brushed of most of the dirt and nitro mess. Everything went together pretty smooth.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/Con1.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con2.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con3.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con4.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con5.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con6.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsion/con7.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../batttray1.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...sion/batt2.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p>http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ion/batt3a.jpg</o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> I used ¼ lexan for the servo mount and the top plate. The top plate is only attached in the middle the two end are not secured. I wasn’t sure about the flex of it and the flex of the chassis. On the front I put a rubber pad between it and the front brace. Never been a fan of running wires (should see my patch panel at work) and they never seem to turn out as clean or neat as I picture it. I used the bec and harness from my maxx so I will make a more efficient harness later. I finished it around 3am so only got to try it out for a few minutes before the drive line gave me problems. Replace the front differential cup today and that fixed the binding issue. Around 2 am is when I came up with the battery holder. So far it seems to be a good idea. Took some pvc pipe I had in the garage and cut it down the side (or top, could have been the bottom also) just a little smaller then the 4s lipo I got. This way I have to spread it open a little to put the lipo in and the pvc kind of clamps down on the battery pack. I sanded down the area I cut to remove any sharp edges. Then drilled a couple holes in the pvc to match holes that were already in the chassis. Bolted it on and put some foam on the bottom where the bolts are. A couple of Velcro straps around it and I had a battery tray. Holds the lipo nice and tight. Tighter then any of the other setups I got so far. Took it out and painted it today to see how it would look. It could be a pretty inexpensive battery tray. What’s pvc these days $3.50 for 8’ of it? So here a few shots of the late night conversion. I will post some pics after I get the rest of the parts in and get it all cleaned up. If your bored the rest of the pictures are in photobucket. http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc316/GuyJor/008%20Kyosho%20Inferno/conversion/ <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> The battery tray looks a lot better after I painted it. |
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I know the conversion is just another conversion in a sea of conversions. But, what do you think about the homemade battery tray? It's doing a good job holding the lipo in place even after some failed jumps.
Also was wonder what gearing others are using with a similar setup? I suppose I was expecting a faster inferno after the conversion. Will I need to up my lipo to 5 or 6s to get the same performance like my evo? Is it just what the center differential brings vs the tranny in the evo? The inferno is fast but not as quick as the evo. It does keep the power down and is easier to control vs the evo. This is how the two are setup now G3R EVO 1515 1y - (2-2s) 4s - ubec - mm - 26/56 .08 pitch Inferno (almost ST-RR) 1515 1y - (1) 4s - ubec - mm - 16/48 mod1 I'm going to try and 18t pinion after work but any input would be appreciated. |
Man this is tough crowd.
I trimmed up the upper deck on the SS Titanic. Removed the shuffle board area so it would give me better access to the motor and pinion adjustments. Also moved one of the supports for the servo up a bit to get a better angle on the lower motor mount screw. Seems like standing the lipo up on it side like it is centers the wieght in towards the middle better then laying it down. http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...nversion/1.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...nversion/2.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...nversion/3.jpg |
Nice looking conversion! :yes: What adapter are you using to run the 14mm hex Talon wheels?
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jnev i think that's the old st us sports model which came with 14mm hexes already...he just added the st-rr chassis and driveshafts(center) everything else is from the rtr...
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Sorry jnev, I remember posted a reply right after your post. I probably switched IE tabs and didn’t hit the post button. I’ve pulled that one before. I am using some older 14mm hexes I had. I was told they were made by Hotbodies but don’t know for sure. I drilled them out ¾ of the way to get them to fit correctly. I like them due to they have a place for a rubber ring to go on them and hold the hex pin in. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p> Thunderbruiser you are right I am upgrading the rtr to the st-rr specs and the center "rear" driveshaft was added due to the extended chassis I added. But not everything else is from the rtr..... <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> The rock guards and chassis braces are from the st-rr. The screws are from Tonys and the bearings are from fullforce RC. The battery tray and top deck are from my garage. The motor mount and pinion are from RCM. The rear 16mm big bores shocks are from OFNA. The big bore springs are from Kyosho. The tires and wheels are from Traxxas. The servo is (Hitec 5998TG) from Servocity. The common sense BEC, Spektrum DX3R and SR3001 Pro receiver are from a lhs called B&B hobbie. The MM and 1515 1y motor are obviously not from the rtr. I do have other parts but haven't installed them yet. Shock towers, wing mount and some front 16mm Kyosho big bores coming in the mail. All from the st-rr. But other then that, everything else if from the rtr.....<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> |
you will loose your battery, forses on jumps and incorrect landings way too high and those velcro straps dont hold your expensive battery, it will slip out to front, try to put wide velcro tape on battery and other side on box, maybe, MAYBE... it will stay there for a while
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If you need help with your conversion I have my strr stripped and cleaned right now. I can take pictures to help you see what other parts you need.. what is the chassis?!? is it dragon racing?
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Thanks for the input tom, sounds like you've made something similar to the pvc holders I came up with. I'd say good idea if you did. I do enjoy trying to make something work from something I already have vs going out and buying it. Some times it works out great and some time I give in and go buy the original part. I already made some adjustments to the holders. Had some slipping as you suggested but after the adjustments it took a header into a tree right off a jump last night. Battery was held solid but I can't say the same fro the MM. Cheap tape maybe. I make more bad landing then I do good it seems so these are being put to the test. These may be one of the keepers. Made one for the LS10 and have adapted them to fit the 3906 e-maxx for a friend. Looks like they are going to really work out nicely for the e-maxx. It was always a pain to get a 7cell or a large lipo to fit or stay secured in the tray easily. Without makes some mods to the chassis that is. It's pretty hard to see them on the 3906 after they are painted black. He'll need some better velcro straps. The small velcro straps are just used for to test the fit.
Here take a look... http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...0pvc/emaxx.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...pvc/emaxx3.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...pvc/emaxx2.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...0pvc/ls102.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...20pvc/ls10.jpg Too bad the padding isn't black. It easy to adjust the weight of the pack from forward to back with these and I can tuck the battery leads and balancing tap inside of the holder. They are working out pretty good for my needs. Those aren't revo shocks on the ls10. They are a hybred - Traxxas long big bores with the larger revo springs. Works nice when it lands on the tires. |
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Can anyone tell me the length of the Kyosho 16mm big bores for the front and or rear? Are the front ones the same length as the back. I ordered the fronts but they sure seem long. The one's I got are 130mm from end to end. I can't tell from the manual and the online stores don't tell me the total either.
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