BrianG - This one's for you
 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTYY8&P=7

'nuff said :whistle:

I dont believe that peltiers work efficently on regular RC onroad/offroad cars. It sucks all energy from your battery for thermoelectric reaction, way more than regular fans :)
I think only place where use it on Top Speed cars and Drag Race RC cars.
Cooling solutions on heatpipes way more attractive, but i never seen any rc-car on them

I dont think this is meant to be used while the car is actually running. I think its meant to "pre-chill" the motor so it starts at a low temp and takes longer before it reaches an overheat state.

I agree that it is far from anything you'd want to run on your car, I think it is actually meant for cooling your motor between races or something. It made me think of BrianG's distaste for cooling solutions and laugh. I'm sure someone has tried to run it inside the vehicle.

At 6.3lbs a bit heavy to run on must vehicles except maybe Neil's maxx...

Unless your strapping a 12V battery on your car, id say it is for cooling down before/after runs. Abit on the rich side though

Dunt think they got the weight right. 178g is 0.39 lbs and not 6.3lbs. Wonder if it really weights 0.39lbs or 6.3lbs... hmmmm :whistle:

I think they use something like this in those electric coolers for autos. Mine came with a 120v to 12vdc 5amp converter cable (PSU). I ripped it all out of the cooler years ago. On 7.2v it makes 38f at 2.5a.

Sub-zero temperatures can't be good for your magnets. IMO

That is a valid point, because they will become more fragile at very low temperatures. It's already possible to shatter a magnet at 100+ deg. F.

Funny Sammus. Actually, I don't mind other cooling solutions, but where practical. Adding all kinds of stuff to keep temps in check only hides the underlying problem. Fix the problem, not the symptom. :wink:

But, as long as people have money to burn...

And yeah, I think that is for pre-cooling purposes. And most peltiers I've seen are only good for ~40*F differential up to a temperature limit. So, if it's 100*F outside, the cold side can only get to ~60*F. This limit is also determined by if the hot side can shed the heat fast enough.

This looks like a dumb idea. You would have to run it quite a bit to lower the internal temps of a motor. Pre-cooling a brushed motor sounds like pushing water up a wall...

I guess the idiots of R/C will be racing to the LHS to order it...

I have to disagree. If you have ever raced on road electric touring cars back in the brushed days, this was a MUST have. I still have mine (duh I dont use it anymore, but a few years ago it was worth its weight in gold), you hook it into the power supply, and you freeze the motor, less wear and tear on the motors armature, and brushes, and heat fade wouldnt hit as fast. no it doesnt freeze your motor, but its gets pretty cold, and everything to the motor is cold

Its not meant to be used with BL motors at all............

u can get the pads on ebay for $5-20 depending on size, and u can buy heatsinks and fans pretty cheap so why pay 70 bucks for it???

Here you guys go, here is a pic of hara using one! The man that just won the worlds, Wins the worlds, and is back to on road. So they still use them, even with BL motors. So there is your proof:na:


http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/q.../img_0851s.jpg

I saw that but decided to make my own, 80mm led fan on a 3r racing heatsink, total cost $10. On the first flip though it wripped the fan right off the heatsink and I decided it was not a good idea. I dont think you could race with that thing on your truck. I have since moved on to a novak heatsink meant for the hv motor and 2 40mm computer fans. Works much better.