Accessing E-Revo diffs - is it really that hard?
 

I haven't seen anyone put up a thread about this, but I was wondering - am I the only one who thinks its a real pain and very time consuming to get to the diffs in the E-Revo?

I replaced the front and rear a-arms in my E-Revo and I though it would have been easier. Really took almost taking the whole front and rear end of the truck apart.

I've wanted to replace the diff oil in the front and rear diffs, but it looked like it would take another 30 minutes just to get past the hinge pins to the diffs.

Am I doing something wrong? If so - please tell me how to access these parts a little more easily.

Most buggies and truggies make it so easy to get to the diffs with only a few screws, but it seemed like the e-revo is a real pain.

You just have to remove the chassis from the bulkhead. I this means undoing the shocks from the rockers as well but it shouldn't take too long. Never really bothered me but I like tinkering with the truck anyway.

Pain in the butt. Like the E-Maxx. These are definately trucks for us "wrench heads".

I'll agree with you on this. It's always suprised me how people change thier diff oil almost on a weekly basis. Major PIA...

Really? The bulks come off a revo easily, remove the pins that hole the driveshafts to the diff and just slide it out. No need to remove the arms just the shocks.

Arms come off easily, just pull the shock towers and skid plates. I find the revo easy to work on. I will say that getting a diff out of an lst is easier. If you want an all day job, rebuild both diffs in a non X model savage. That is almost a full disassemble job to get them out...

Maxx trucks are super easy to work on. 8-10 screws removes both ends from the chassis, and only a few more screws to get a bulk off and the diff out.

I may be jaded though, and I use the following tools:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXM3&P=7

http://www.skilshop.com/v3/products/...=%7Bkeyword%7D

Oh man, I had to replace a snapped rear bulkhead on my non-X Savage. My middle arm was sore just after that ~15min. job.

I never really pulled the diffs out of my Revo when I had it. They just sorta remained intact because they never gave me any problems :yipi:.

The E-Revo does have two screws that secure the skidplate to the bulkhead that need to be removed, but once those are out the bulks should come out with 5 more screws (2 sandwiching the shock mount/chassis/bulkhead together and 2 more sandwiching the body mount/chassis/bulkhead together). Then there's a screw holding the 2 bulk halves together, and once that's out you can remove the screw pins holding the driveshafts in, and the diff should slide right out after the halves are separated.
It just sounds a lot more like a PITA than it really is IMO.

You do not have to spilt the bulks to get the diff out of a revo. Just remove the complete bulk/arm assy from the chassis, remove the center driveshaft and the wheel driveshafts from the diff and lift the diff out of the bulkhead. The diff output have to be aligned a certain way, with the flats facing front and rear to slide the diff out. One of the easier vehciles to get a diff out of. I still think the lst is the easiest, maybe 8 screws to get the diff out, 5min job max.

So it sounds like there is some agreement here.

So do you need to fully pull the bumber off to get at the parts? Maybe that's what was taking me so much time.

Ah, you're right. I managed to forget this innovation :lol:. My excuse: it's been a while :whistle:.

I first pull the shock tower off, and the bumper comes with it. Then take the shocks off the chassis mounts, as the long screws go into the front of the bulkheads. That is all that holds the rear bulk in place, the front has 2 addl screws that come out from the top. Then pull the bulks off, take the driveshafts off the diffs and lift the diff out. With a power screwdriver it does not take long, and the long reach ofna driver bits make it really easy. You do not need to take the center driveshaft off to get the diff out.

I have a set of Losi race drivers, best I have found, but the ofna bits and the IXO power driver get used more than anything else. That little lithium battery lasts for a while. I have have put an entire revo together with it, and not charged it once.

No prob, I have built 4 revos from parts recently so it is fresh in my mind!

Plus david is sending me an erevo chassis, so my tekno revo is going to have a complete overhaul and some hybrid diffs. A hacker c50 11xl on 6s should get it moving...

Thanks guys!! I'll give this a try over the weekend.

Jaded? No, just working smarter not harder. Having the right tools always makes the job easier.

A little late to this thread but I'll put my 2c in too. It looks intimidating to do but it's not that hard, but it's not a 5 minute job either. The first time I took the diffs out of a revo was on the G2R I had (bought it used and the guy had spools front and rear). Not only did I have to get to both front and rear but a total rebuild was needed on both. I had it apart changed and back together in a little more than an hour. Getting the bumper off was a pita cause I missed a screw! I'm sure I could do it in under an hour now, will be doing it soon myself. Pretty sure the diffs just have grease in them stock, need to put some silicone fluid in there!

Very true. I wore out my first set of dynamite drivers (crap) within a month. I was just strolling thru home depot one day and I saw the IXO driver. It was 40 bucks, but it had a lithium battery, so I had to have it. I paid 40 for my lois drives, 4 of em... Still a good purchase, good tools are the best investment you can make, next to a high end charger and a pocket voltmeter!

Certainly not the easiest job, but you did it in a good time. It takes me forever to get a diff filled and installed, but I am picky on gear mesh and I always seem to spend a while cleaning the internals before I fill one!