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MMM v3 Pics - one issue remains...
Looks great except I think there is still an issue with the fan wiring...
The routing of the fan cable down the side of the board. Mine was pinched enough on assembly/shipping to cut through all of the insulation and have "live" wire rubbing against the board.. :-( I'll rewire to have the fan on 100% off of the rx - but going to go for no ubec on the v3. As can be seen you can "just" get a sheet of paper between HS and bullets... Big Pics: http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u.../MMMv3/002.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u.../MMMv3/007.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u.../MMMv3/009.jpg |
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That's enough clearance for me. Sucks about the fan wires, but like you said it's an easy fix.
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My v3 fan wire looked very similar. I also noticed that one onf the rasided edges of the bottom case needs to be clearanced a bit as it appears to be trapping the fan wire between inteslf and the board. I put a bit of small heatshrink on the fan wire of my ve and had issues getting it back in the case... I would almost say to run the wire outside of the case and bring it back in where the signal wires exit (that slot needs to be bigger on the case too.) I will try that on my v3 before I run it...
I have decided that my v3 is going in my hyper8 buggy with a 1900kv aveox on 6s lipo. Going to run the new case and just re-route the fan wire. Only mods that I will do. Hope it survives... |
James, can you post a picture of the new case? Thanks.
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hey chris, is the case any different to save the bec coil?
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The bottom case is 6mm deep and the fan plug is 5.25mm - bec coil is 4.5mm
Foam is now placed to support the brains board not on fan connector / coil |
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Too bad Patrick did'nt fix the fan wires, seems like the easiest of all the problems they had to fix yet no. I really do not understand the logic when they had to make new case molds anyway. Very disappointing. I was going to run the V3's stock out of the box but now it seems we will all have to open them up & take care of protecting pinched fan wires again. This means taking off the sticker, prying open the case which will never stay securely closed again after you open it.
Patrick how long do you think those wires will last racing off-road when they get damaged just by assembling & shipping the unit??? Hope you have a truck load of those fans to send out for free. |
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http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2647.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2648.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2649.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2650.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2651.jpg |
just so i'm clear hear,being a noob to this electric stuff
i have a new v2 that i just updated the firmware and i'm waiting on a new v3 case from castle the only remaining issue will be the fan wire issue correct ?? will the heatsink/bullet clearance of the v2 still be an issue ?? i'm just wondering if i need to just send the v2 in and start with a complete v3,instead of trying to fix the v2 ...lol thanks guys for all the help you give on here to us noobs |
With the new lower case the pcb sits flat and there must be almost 1mm clearance between the fan plug and the case. So they cured that issue. The fan also has plenty of clearance between it and the top grille area on the case.
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nice job for the case but the fan wire seem to have some issue again....:whistle:
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Ok, had a good look at the lower case and noticed that there is a small notch near the clearanced area where the fan/switch wires exit the case. I can only assume it is where the fan wires should go to avoid them being pinched between the lower case lip and the pcb.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2652.jpg So I figured out another place to route the wire that will require minimal case mods and will allow the use of some shrink to protect the wire. The wire is usually brought down between the two caps on the negative bullet side. If you add shrink to the wire it is almost impossible to get it to fit there. If you move the wire over and place it outside the case slightly it will clear the caps and can go down between the case and the negative bullet. I would put some shrink on the wire and make a small notch in the case next to the bullet. Then there is enough of the wire left to plug it into the pcb and shape the wire so that it fits in the notch that is made into the lower case ledge (shown in the pic above) Visual aids... http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2653.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2654.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2657.jpg |
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