MMM V.3 help
 

(savage,4s5000 25c, traxxas tq-2 2-ch. radio system)
I just got my mmm v.3 after sending in the v.2

1st thing I did: program to appropriate settings, lipo cut-off..etc

I plugged everything in to set up for the calibration steps,and

Upon turning the car on, it makes only one multi-toned sound and a yellow/green light flashes simultaneously, I get throttle/brake servo & steering servo response, but no "gas"....

-I recently tested with a spectrum 3.0, and had the same problems....:(

Make sure the trimsetting on the transmitter is set to the center, then run the calibration setup. You know full throttle, turn on the MMM, beeps, full brake, beeps, neutral, beeps. Then you should be fine. But make sure all of the trim settings on the radio are at the center position while you do this.

I did this with the dials on the tq-2, and also manually with the spectrum, it just makes that initial multi-toned beep--and then keeps flashing the yellow and green

help?
 

-thx

Anyone know? I am just curious what could be the problem here...

Use the Castle Link -- and lengthen the arming time to the maximum. Then, after you have it calibrated, change it back to whatever you want.

Sometimes the Spektrum doesn't bind fast enough, and while unbound it sends "off" throttle to the Monster. The Monster thinks that it should arm - - so it arms just before the Spektrum binds. Lengthening the arming time should allow you to calibrate ...

Imma borrow this thread: Anyone know what's wrong, MMM died or motor? Cant test other parts now, first i thought it was battery not giving enough amps but tried with another one too.

The motor is running intermittent (if thats the right word) at low rpm. Runs smooth on higher rpm (if i hold the car in the air). Cant drive tho. This started suddenly while driving.

MMM(v3) switch doesnt do anything when i switch it off. And some smd part came off on first run on the MMM when the case opened after a jump on a track, but i soldered it back and it worked many charges before now.

Motor seems to turn well with fingers and it didnt get over 60C and i checked temps everynow and then while driving. And it was only driven one charge before.

a) bad connection or bad soldering in bullets from esc to motor
b) demagnitized and the motor is shot (did you go over 200?)

60C is 140F, so no. 150F max.

I just tried again, and the motor seems to try to turn both directions at low rpm (when i try to accelerate). Green led on ESC blinking with forward throttle and orange on neutral and red on brake/reverse, normally. Happens on every throttle position, but i can get over the low rpm sometimes and then it seems to work smoothly.

And now i noticed that the battery and motor wires get warm fast. Less than a minute of "trying to drive".

I took a little video (sorry for darkness/quality) but shows the idea anyways. At start all esc leds are on even the switch is off.. Tho this happened earlier too and it was working.

When lift the car up on the video, I can get to higher rpm and then it works (like said on last posts too). On the ground you can see the buggy bugging. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBSWLftBrhs

I tried this-and got the same results, should I send it in again>?

progress:
got the car to calibrate/run at default, BUT when I return to program any setting like the lipo cut-off voltage, the car doesnt run anymore...

any suggestions?

It was broken motor. Now im running 4th china motor with my MMMv3. Three broken. :) Well the first one was too small for the car and overheated, second had bad manufacturing, third is a mystery, maybe dust. Its ok to break some china motors as long as the MMM works. :)