Drivetrain Woes
 

I just finished installing the extended wheelbase suspension arms on my E-revo and i like what it has done to the handling, but on is maiden voyage i sheared both of the drive pins and broke one on the rear sliders. After some inspection i decided to put brand new drive shaft assemblies on the rear as the one that didn't break was looking pretty worn. well with the batteries topped off i headed out again and got in a good run until my pinion set screw came loose, i headed back to re-locktite and reinstall and while doing this i noticed that my brand new sliders were showing some extensive wear after maybey 15 min of driving....not cool.

Is this just something to expect with a relatively high power motor/esc combo and the extended wheel base just creates more stress?

Also, i dont know of any good cvd's for the revo, i know there are some out there but i haven't heard of any that really stand up to power. I would easily pay top dollar for a set that is bombproof but i dont know of any that are.

sorry for the long explaination!!!

Sounds like any METAL driveshafts would work much better than the stock sliders. The holes around the U-joints will inevitably wear out anyways, even if the rest of it holds up.

How "extended" is it? Would these still fit? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNTT8&P=ML MIP makes great stuff. They should hold up alright.

put the stock arms back on and use some 1/2 offset rims! Dramatically improves handling! I have only managed to break one new driveshaft on my E-REVO. That was on the stock rims and talons running 6s. I made a driveshaft out of all the used pieces I have from my previous trucks but snapped that on 5s when I was doing a cartwheel and kept punching it trying to pull out of the cartwheel, but it was the same shaft that was made up of used parts so I don't know if it was already damaged.

Also it has been pretty well documented on here that the stock sliders will hold up to pretty much anything a metal one will.

i would think that too, but i've heard several people on here say that the traxxas cvd's have issues popping out on the drive cups, especially when used in conjunction with RPM arms which flex more, not sure about the MIP ones though. The arms in the back give 10mm or 19mm longer wheelbase, i am currently using the 19mm setting. As i said before this makes the truck drive noticeably better as it doesn't wheely with anything over 1/2 throttle, instead it just GOES!!!

already have the 1/2 inch offset rims with badlands, and the stock rear arms would put me back to where i was....i like how the thing drives now, i just don't want to have to replace the sliders after every run.

well im suprised you are haveing problems with the sliders, mine still look new after 5 races, the traxxas cvds hold up well and they are cheep compaired to the price you would pay if bomb proof made some, just rember to buy extended out drives for the read diffs

so bombproof makes some cvd's? Im really don't mind paying a lot as long as i am getting a good reliable product. i just don't wand to drop money on the traxxas or MIP ones and still have issues with them

Information.
 

Try talking with Dan at Kershawdesigns.com. He may be able to help you with the drive shaft/axles that you need, or even make something up for you. Personally speaking plastic is just what it infers, and plastic toys were made for boys. If you want to beef up your truck by putting more power then was originally installed by the MFR, plus adding extended arms, offset rims, and such, then why try depending on plastic parts to drive the modifications? Once you modify the power plant or the drivetrain in any way you might as well take a very close look at the rest of the truck and anylize what you have done. Surely there will be more weak lincs that need to be modified/upgraded in order to truly make the vehicle Bombproof as you wish.

Bottom line, you can either purchase plastic parts and routinely replace them due to breakage or bad driving, or upgrade your vehicle engineering wise making good purchases up front ONCE, and enjoy having fun with your truck knowing that it will hold up to just about anything you throw at it. All of this is contingent upon your use of the vehicle, wheather you are ROAR racing or bashing your vehicle in yoru own backyard. How many real life size vehicles do you see using composit plastics in the drivetrain?? Size to weight ratio these vehicles are under the same stresses and should be engineered in the same manner. Sure you can use plastic driveline parts all day long and maybe it will hold up for a while, but in the back of your mind you are still going to be thinking about wheather or not it will hold up, which will affect your willingness to go full throttle and really push your truck the way you would like. RC Alloys.com also does custom drive shaft work on request. Have fun and good luck with your decisions. Spend your money wisely, but realize that this hobby is not cheap by any means. You are going to spend big money over the long haul no matter which way you go with this project.

I have to think you have something else going on here. What kind of "wear" did you see that made you concerned? Are the shafts rubbing on the arms? Did you change your rockers and pushrods to the correct ones for use with the extended wheel base arms? (you can't use the LT's with those, right?). You have a symptom that may or may not be resolved with higher priced CVD's, but you may also end up spending that money and still have the issue.

BTW: If you have seen any of Jerry's stuff, he has an extreme allergy to anything plastic!!!!

I have been running my revo with all its plastic day in and day out on 6S, and they have been holding up better than my metal CVD's did.

Ahhh! Language barrage! :tongue:

basically the holes in the ends of the sliders where the metal U-joint fits in are getting stretched and ovalized in a relatively short time. the shafts themselves seem to be holding up fine as i have only cracked one....its always the ends that give out.

Traxxas Cvds fixes that but then you may trash your diffs...

Good thought! I would rather be replacing a shaft that takes less than 5 minutes than the hour required to change out a diff. I have picked up driveshafts on ebay for about $5 each. I went through alot of them on my T-Maxx and Revo 3.3, hitting things doesn't help:whistle: I was a noob once too:yes:

That's the cycle of upgrading. Replacing one part causes failure in another, so you replace that, and so on up the line until things don't break anymore! :yipi:

There will always be a weak link, no matter how much upgrading you do! It's best to keep the weak link at a point that's easy to get to and cheap to replace.