Smaller onroad project
 

I love my Ultra GTP, but it's a big large to play in the garage/basement/small work parking lot. So, I thought a 10th scale would be better space-wise.

Been looking at a few models, but want one that is tough. I don't care if it's belt or shaft drive as long as everything holds up. Not trying for insane speeds, but it will have plenty of torque for drifts when I want.

So, what's the most durable model in 10th scale? Diffs have to have metal gears. Preferably planetary or spider gears (not ball). Since I'll probably go through bodies like candy, I want something that'll be easy to find bodies for. Also want something fairly easy to work on - sucks having to take half the car apart to get to one thing.

oops

um, pretty sure he's looking for touring cars, not stadium trucks. btw it's vxl, not vlx.

Tc3-4-5?

Actually, I already have a CRT.5. I'm looking more of something like Team Associated TC3 or TC4, Losi drift sedan, Trx 4Tec, Ofna Hyper GPX4/CD3/LD3 - stuff like that. Just want the most durable model with ease of maintenance.

Go with the N4-tec if you want durability. Its a brick...:lol:

I was actually looking at a nitro 4-tec several days ago. A guy at my LHS got a used one and I was looking it over. The whole upper deck would need to be rebuilt, but not a bad little car from what I could see. And the belt was off to the side giving plenty of room in the middle for stuff. But, I figured I'd get more opinions before I go hunting for one. :smile:

Dude I am sorry, I was on my 1st cup of coffe when I read that this morning. My bad. :lol:

I have been looking for a nice TC4 also but they are kinda hard to find nice ones for the cheap. In fact I was shopping the TC5 simply b/c the part support would be easier and they seem to come way down in price. I want a 100+ mph sedan too. :wink:

As far as maitanance I dunno, but for speed they are soooo capable of over 100 with MM and 4s!! I wanna but its going to have to wait till after the 8ight.

Hey Brian, if you want a nitro 4tec I have one with a bunch of parts that you can have cheap...

I would say that it will make a decent conversion. I also llike the tamiya tt01 chassis. Thise are super strong, even though they have plastic diffs with metal internals. I had one do 75mph repeatedly with no wear to the drivetrain.

I like my TA-04. Carbon chassis, took a curb head on @ 45mph or so and live to race on.

I might hit you up on that 4tec. I had one Tamiya and it seems their support life-cycle for parts is pretty limited. Traxxas carries stuff forever it seems.

I'm still trying to decide what I want more: a MT/truggy or a smaller onroad. Probably after the holidays when finances settle down before I know either way. Mike has sucked my wallet dry the last month - but it's a good thing. :smile:

You may have to convert a nitro to get metal gear diffs with internal gears as most electrics use ball diffs. I think the nitro rs4 family has decent diffs. I have an electric RS4 (ball diffs) that easily does 60mph and is very durable. But if you want to run in a garage or basement, you may want to go to smaller yet (1/18th scale).

Converting a nitro is fine with me. Actually, I expected it.

Garage/basement is just for playing when it is too cold outside. But mostly for small parking lots and such. I still haven't seen the full speed of my GTP because I run out of room. I had a Tamitay EVO III, which is 10th scale IIRC, and it worked pretty good in tight places, but parts are REALLY hard to come by so I gave it to my brother with a gentle brushed motor/LRP ESC (was on my son's Pede).

Yeah, I don't like ball diffs. I'd much rather have a planetary or spider diff that is tunable with oil.

I took a look at the 4tec at traxxas and noticed they use similar driveshafts as Slash/Pede/Rustler and found them to twist easily. So, whatever I get has to have steel outdrives and CVDs as well.

So, the list of requirements are:

> Spider or planetary steel oil-tunable diffs
> Steel driveshaft outdrives and CVDs
> Easy to work on any one part without tearing half the vehicle apart.
> Sized to fit typical 10th scale bodies

At this rate, I might as well just get another CRT.5 and create a chassis and shock towers specific for on-road use since it has the driveline I am happy with. Actually, that's not a bad idea really. Hmmm. I wonder if the CRT.5 arms are too wide... How wide are 10th scale bodies?

touring car bodies are generally 190 or 200 mm